My 1991 Ford F-150 has a bad ignition switch. Can any of you guys help me out with how to fix it? How do you get these things out without damaging the steering column? This thing is completely crapped out. It rotates without any "clicking". I had to disconect the battery. How do you get these thing out of the steering column? I tried the "Ice pick" in the 2 of the only holes that are in the column. Nothing is in the wheel. I'm flat out screwed. Can anyone help? I can't afford a $200.00 tow job and replacement. This thing is the best vehicle I've ever had until now. Please help! Bill T.

 

Hey Bill, I feel your pain. I have the same problem except that I have a 1990 and I also have a problem with my ignition switch (you have a problem with your lock and key). There is actually a recall on these ignition switches but I don't want to take the car to my local Ford dealer cuz they have a bad service rep. Anyway, the manual I have mentions a "hole" that you're supposed to stick a 1/8" drill bit into to release the lock--one place says put the key in "Run" position, another says to put it in the "On" position. I tried it all, can't find the dad gummed hole! If I figure it out I will post here asap.

Good luck

 

That's not the ignition switch - that's the "lock cylinder". They're distinct, and separate.

Go to FSB, go to the Tech Writeups forum, & then read the thread about "Ignition Actuator Replacement". If you don't see it near the top, the search function on that BBS is one of the best on the net. That thread has a full writeup with plenty of photos, and I think he even mentions the PNs & prices.

 

That is great writeup but way too much for me to attempt. I called a locksmith who is coming out this afternoon. I told him the problem and he told me he does this sort of repair all the time. He ball parked me $100.00 to $175.00 depending what needs to be replaced. That includes the service call which I didn't think was too bad. A lot cheaper than having them come and tow, or transport it. I post the final damage when he finishes. Bill

 

Sorry i got on a day late Mel. But for everyone else out there with the same problem you have to shine a light throuh the small hole underneath the colum and poke in the the small button that locks the ign in place. you have to have the ign. turned to the run or on position. its funny sometimes. i just use a small flathead screwdriver and poke it throught the hole and fine the small metal button and while turning the ign from run to the on posion it will depress. when its depressed you can pull the ign out. it will not come out til that button is depressed. than you can just push the new ign in with it turned to the on position with the key. you have to make sure the male end of the ign. is lines up with the female end of the colum which should be in the on position. once you snap it in the button will push back out and lock the ign in place. good luck

 

Well, good news and bad news. The locksmith came, replaced the ignition cylinder and it solved nothing. $125.00 for zip. He called a guy he knows who does steering column teardowns, (like the one outlined in the Tech Writeup Forum in FSB). He makes house calls and will be here this morning. He told me he knows exactly wht the problem is, and has repaired hundreds of them. Cost, $150.00 complete. If this goes down as planned I'll have $275.00 invested. Still far cheaper than having it towed, or transported to a dealer. We'll see. I'm optimistic after talking to this guy. Hopefully I'll report this afternoon with better news. Bill

 

Help! Can anyone please tell me either:
1. How the heck to get the darn pivot pins out of the tilt mechanism?
2. Where to buy a pivot pin removal tool?

I went to the Ford Dealer and asked about how to get them out, their reply was that this procedure was a real pain and that they could do it for $327.00!!!. Needless to say I wasn't happy. I can SEE the bad lower actuator that's broken in my 1990 F-150 w/ 5 speed manual, I just can't GET to it because of those evil pins! The procedure that says to thread 8/32 screws into them, latch locking pliers on the screws and then bang with a hammer ain't working! Somebody please tell me what I am doing wrong? Also when I pulled off the upper flange it was hard to pull off and two things happened-
a thin metal U-shaped piece that's squared flew off of somewhere, and the big fat S-shaped metal thingy that has something to do with the tilt mechanism now is missing the very small hold down bracket at the top.
Also, the one at the bottom was already gone. There aren't even any holes for them to screw into, so it's a mystery to me what held them on and where they went! Can I just get rid of it? I don;t need the tilt function.

Sorry for the long post, I am just frustrated after spending many hours on this. I already had to put in a new fan clutch, water pump, both radiator hoses, new oil and filer, new plugs, serpentine belt, thermostat. Spent almost $250 just on parts so far. I need to get the truck inspected before the temp registration runs out in 3 weeks.

 

All,s well that ends well. This guy had it fixed in just a little under an hour. New key and Ignition switch cylinder, new steering column guts. Admittingly I didn't need the new ignition switch cylinder, but with a total of $275.00 I can't complain too much. Ignition turns much "smoother" now. Before it was tight and binding. Bill T.

 

tvguy518
Did you look at the writeup on FSB? Read post #3 in this thread, then follow the link. The "removal tool" is a cheap hardened screw that you put into each pin, then pull like a cork using pliers.

Bill
Glad you're back on the road - sorry the first guy ripped you off.