My backup sensors and backup lites both quit, anyone have a idea were to start to find the problem? lite is still on at the switch for the backup lites showing it is off or on. Checked the fuses that say control the system and look good. Thanks Al

 

anyone else ever had this trouble?

 

Which fuses did you check ?

The reversing lamps cell shows :
Fuse F102 20 A feeds o the Ign switch hot or run position to Fuse F14 10 A.
Fuse F14 10 A is fed to the DTR sensor( automatic ), which feeds back splice S297.

S297 branches to :
- Splice S290
- trailer tow reversing relay coil

Splice S290 branches to:
- inside electrochromatic inside mirror
- parking aid module
- splice S405 ( which is the splice by the rear bumper for the back up lamps ).

Maybe check :
1. Do you have power at the reverse lamp sockets ?
1.1. with truck, parking brake on, wheels chocked, and only in the run position ( not started ) put the truck into reverse and check for power and ground at the reverse lamps. Power is the Black w/ pink stripe wire.

2. Do you have power at the Trailer Tow reversing relay socket ?
2.1. With the same setup as above, truck secured and in reverse, pull the trailer tow relay, and check for power on pin #2 in the relay socket.

This will show ( after checking the fuses noted above ) if the DTR sensor is sending power along to the reversing circuit.

I am thinking Fuse F14 is blown ( F102 has more stuff on it then just the reversing circuit, and you would notice this as well ). If the fuse is good, looks to be the DTR sensor on the side of the transmission ( if the checks #1 & #2 above turn out to be no power and ground is confirmed ).

Good luck, let us know what you find

 

Thanks for the info SScully. I checked everything you said and could get no lites on the test at all. I got a little lucky though, i found that the trailer backup lite fuse was blown. The # 10 20 amp fuse. replaced it and all is well. I don't have a wiring diagram for the truck so I don't quite understand why this happened. I borrowed a friends trailer just before this all happened so something must be crossed in his wiring. I did notice that the running lites did not work on the trailer when hooked up. everything else worked though. Sure am glad for this forum and the knowledgeable people that help. Do you know how this is tied to the # 10 fuse? thanks Al

 

Well, Fuse F10 20 A should not have anything to do with the parking aid module or the reverse lamps on the truck.

Fuse F10 feeds the trailer tow relay reversing lamps, and directly to the 7 pin connector. That is strange that replacing that fuse fixed the reverse lamps on the truck.

Fuse 102 20 A via the ign switch ( run position ) feeds Fuse F18 for the parking module ( PWR_RUN input on the parking aid module )

Reverse in from the DTR sensor ( source of power is F102 through the ign in the start / run position to Fuse F14 to the DTR sensor ) is also into the parking aid module ( to know when it should be active ) on pin 3 of the parking aid module.

The parking aid disable switch is a switched ground connection to the parking aid module ( and the illumination of it is from the cluster & panel illumination ).

Got me why replacing the separate circuit for the trailer tow reversing lamps ( circuit 140 black w/ pink stripe wire ) fixed the problem with the reverse lamps ( also a black w/ pink stripe from splice S405 at the rear of the track, prior it is circuit 1043 Dark Green w/ yellow stripe ).

Glad it works now, welcome to the party.

 

Sounds like you know a lot more about this system than I do, thats for sure. For sure that was the only fuse blown and it fixed the problem. While I got you I installed heated seats in my truck last year and still have them in the fuse panel but not on a ignition source feed. The seats have a separate fuse for each seat, where would be the best place to pick up a feed that is hot only when the ignition is on. I have been careful so far and not left the seats on therefor running down the battery. Thanks again for the help Al

 

I don't understand it either, so I would say we both know about the same amount as to why they started working. God figure, it works now, that is the important part.

Heated seats, depends on the Amp draw.

Factory seats have a single 30 A fuse for both driver's and passengers, that is hot at all times. There is a 10 A fuse that controls the heated seat modules and only allows the seats to get used when the truck is in the start/run position of the Key.

I would think using a fused connection from the battery to a relay, and then use an add-a-fuse in a hot in run position for the coil to a relay.



How about you get some info together on the seats, and start a new thread, and get the URL in this thread ( in case another member has the same question they can find it easier with a search ). The info is the size of the fuses per seat, the switches / controllers ( if you have a mfgr web site, all the better ) and we can get going on it. I'm still around town this week, so I should be able to get to it pretty quick.

 

SSCULLY, I went to the auto parts store and found the add a circuit you sent the pic of. Problem is you can only add a 10 amp circuit. The heated seats I have already installed have a 20 amp circuit each in which both have 20 amp inline fuses for them. I was thinking that I could find something that is ignition source feed and just tap into it. With both the seat circuits fused I would think that should not be a hazard or problem. Any idea what wire color code I could use for this? I am not quite sure how to start a new thread or what to call it other than "heated seat install" or something like that. Thanks again Al

 

Al,

My thought was to use relays, and the add-a-fuse was to power the coil on the relay, so it could only be on in the run position.

Trying to find that much off the factory harness, is not going to lead to your happy place later.

Here is my thought on the install :



If you can find a 40 A relay, and install a 40 A Maxi fuse, with 10 AWG wire, then after the relay split it into the 2 20 A circuits for the seat heaters, that is one route.

If not, double the parts in the drawing, and have a Connection from the single Add-a-fuse ( with a 2 A fuse in it ) to 2 Relay coils ( pin 85 ).

If you already have the 2 20 A circuits ( 12 AWG wire ) run from the battery to the seats, then just cut in the relays, and add the add-a-fuse from a hot in run position fuse to activate them.

Let me know if that makes sense or not.

Steve

PS: To start a new thread in the future, at the top of the thread heading, there is a item with a down arrow called [i]Forum Tools[.i]
single click on the down arrow, and the list shows up.
Post a New Thread is the first one on the pull down list. That is how you can start a new thread for future reference, but for this, just finish it off in here.

 

Al,

Just went and made the diagram for the install, taking a guess at what you have installed already.

 

Sorry for not getting back,working a lot and no play. I like your idea on the relay, will a auto parts store stock a relay and a socket. like the one you have pictured?

 

I think Napa will have the relay sockets, and the relay for sure.

Centech ( http://www.centechwire.com/ ) has all sorts of parts for installs, including relay sockets with 2 m leads on the socket ( saw them at Aerostich | www.aerostich.com/ with a 70A relay )

If nothing else, you can use female terminal ends for the connections to the relay socket. I have that on my Kawi for the fuse panel ( similar to the install in the 1st diagram ) an I have yet to have a problem with the female terminal ends giving me grief out in the weather.

I used heat shrink on each one like this ( picture is for the remote preload install for the Hagin rear shock, to the left is the 30 A relay powering the fuse panel ) :
http://www.pbase.com/sscully/image/56887382

You could get carried away and install the 60 A fuse panel from Centech if you are going to do more then just the heated seats. Bit more parts, and diagram is similar to #1.

 

This website is AWESOME. I have an '05 SCREW 4x4 and had the reverse sensors stop working, the reserve lights, and no power to the factory tow recepticle. Replaced fuse #10 and everything is fixed.

Thanks for the information.

 

I Know this is really late but as for the reverse lights not working my #10 fuse was also blown which had caused my reverse lights to not work and I have an 04 f150. I also had pulled a trailer but didn't see any of the running lights out. But anyways just throwing that out there guys for any one who may come across this thread later.

 

Good info to have, that is 3 for 3.

I don't understand it, but that does not make it wrong, that makes me wrong.

Great job on the search.

Welcome to the site, hope to see you around.