Ok so I'm connected to those wires on the drivers side. Will that make that much of a difference connecting them to the passenger side? Also with the wires being these colors that means i have keyless entry correct? So i don't need to do anything special when i connect to those wires? the wires on the module say that they are negative output. SO when i connect to the lock/unlock wires do i have to do anything special, or just splice them in there? Thanks so much for your help.

 

just splice them in and yes it makes a difference were you get and hook up your wires

 

While we are talking about wires i recieved a code alarm ca 671 for christmas and have figured out most of the install .Starts,doors lock and unlock but cannot figure out how to wire the door keypad to arm/disarm tried hooking up to pink/black to lock and red/orange to unlock on wires coming from drivers door lock while this works the truck will also arm /disarm when i use the inside door switch so this is not right. any help will be welcome thanks

 

no that is not right what year is your truck

 

Number 1... Do you have a factory keyless entry system? If so:
Your remote start unit will have at the very least a 500ma transistor GND output for lock and unlock. With factory keyless entry you simply tap into the Pink/Yellow wire for LOCK and the Pink/Light Green for unlock. This will activate your locks and arm/disarm your factory alarm...Again this is only if so equipped with the factory keyless entry!!

OR

If you do not have a factory keyless system, then it gets a little more difficult. The lock system uses a reversing polarity circuit in which you MUST CUT the Pink/Light Green and Pink/Yellow wires running under the driver's side dash. You will then splice 4 wires from your remote unit (If your remote start unit is equipped with onboard relays for lock and unlock). If the remote unit ONLY has the 500ma GND transistor output then you MUST buy two relays and wire them in. Do a search on reversing polarity locks. I could explain it, but without knowing your wire colors...it could become very lengthy. Basically when you cut the two wires, you end up with 4 wire ends(two on drivers side and two on passenger side). The two ends of the PK/Y wire go to the normally closed and common contacts of 1 relay, and the two ends of the PK/LG wire go to the normally closed and common contacts of the second relay (Common contacts MUST be attached to the wires that go to the passenger side). +12vdc needs to be wired to the normally open contacts AND coil of each relay. Your remote unit 500ma transistor outputs for lock and unlock go to the other side of the coil (one wire per relay).

I've done quite a few remote start/lock/unlock installs.....the reversing polarity is the most difficult, unfortunately that's what has been on most of the vehicles I've done.

 

ok so on my starter module the lock wire is green and unlock is brown. So if possible could you break this down to how i go about wiring in these relays. I see that i'm suppose to cut into one wire on passenger side and one on the driver? If you could just break this down for me that would be great. If you need more info from me to help do that let me know thanks again!

 

Its a 2007 crew cab lariet with key less entry/door key pad .The ca 671 has a manual arm/disarm feature for the outside keypad to arm/disarm with out using remote

 

what type of relays do i need?

 

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG

Go to that link above. Scroll down until you reach the diagram for "Reverse-Polarity Door Unlock Connection". Wire your Unlock circuit as depicted then repeat for the Lock circuit only using the green wire from your unit instead of the brown.....And of course tap into the vehicle's lock wire instead of the unlock wire. Commonly used relay is Bosch 30A....very popular....just make sure it has 5-pins...4-pins won't work for reversing polarity lock systems.

 

Connect the Light Blue with Green stripe to the Pink with Orange stripe in the driver's back door sill plate. This wire comes from the keyless entry brain on the back wall and then shoots behind the front seats to the passenger side. This wire will show 12 volts only when you hit the unlock on your factory transmitter a second time to unlock all doors. This will keep the door lock switches from disarming the alarm system but lets the factory key fobs or keyless entry keypad on the door disarm the alarm system.

There is a known issue with the CA671 in that if the Light Blue with Red Stripe wire is connected to the Pink with Black stripe wire (lock motor wire) that it will cause the alarm system to have to be disarmed twice before it will unlock the doors. Not all do it or sometimes it is an issue that arises after awhile. For my customers I do not have them connect this wire and all is fine.

The main focus of the system is the ability to disarm it with the keypad if you leave the keys in the vehicle. This feature is still intact. I simply hit lock on the transmitter and place the keys in the vehicle. After closing the door the system will fully arm. I wish the keypad arming feature worked like it should but it's not too bad of an issue. The problem does come in handy sometimes when I simply wish to not arm the alarm system yet lock the doors. When it was connected to the keypad, any time I would lock the doors it would arm it. There were many times that my wife was sitting in the truck and I happen to take my keys with me when I would fuel the truck due to the locking gas cap. I would then go into the store to pay and my wife would lock the doors to be safe which in turn would arm the alarm. Then she would be jacking around with the center console lid or something and set the alarm off...lol Then she's all pissed because of the embarrassment and then I catch the hell.

 

Thanks for the info .if it ever warms up outside currently 8 degrees out i will try those wires