4.6 to 5.4 swap in progress
#1
4.6 to 5.4 swap in progress
Today i started labeling sensors and unbolting accessors to make way for the pull. I have seen in another thread that this guy on his 4.6 expedition, he took his highrise intake manifold injectors and fuel rails off, and the left valve cover. My first question is, is the 4 bolts on each side next to each injector the only 8 bolts i remove to pull the intake off?? JMC I NEED YOU ON THIS ONE MAN!
#2
I'll get you pics of all the trouble spots on the intake where bolts are hard to be seen.
I get my 5.4 tomorrow, I'll be dropping it in sometime before the weekend.
I would advise removing the engine harness off the motor completely. It bolts under the cowl kind of to a whole mess of wiring, my head was hitting those connectors. . .
I get my 5.4 tomorrow, I'll be dropping it in sometime before the weekend.
I would advise removing the engine harness off the motor completely. It bolts under the cowl kind of to a whole mess of wiring, my head was hitting those connectors. . .
#3
By harness you mean the fuel injector wires and sensors on the motor itself? Can do! I just got my intake off and everything above so im not that far away. The pi 5.4 that i got is noticablly shorter in height than the 4.6 with the highrise intake, so that will give us more clearence as we drop the 5.4 in, thats if yours has the PI intake manifold. I cant see dropping a longblock engine in with that highrise its got to be a b!tch !!
#5
#6
I'm trying to avoid this. Is it because the placement of the lifting chain? I think it will clear as long the engine fan is off and you have your cowl pretty clean. I'd hate to throw on new manifold gaskets and work in that cramped area
#7
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#8
By the looks of the intake gasket on the 4.6, no way. The coolant ate them and they crumbled to pieces. I'm going to take the cowl off along with everything else and try to angle it in such a way I will not need to remove int. manifold. If I did not have the fan on the 4.6 when I pulled it, I bet ya I could have pulled the engine with intake on. I am in no challenging you as you have done this before, I'm just giving my insight. I should be putting this 5.4 in sometime later this week, I will ofcourse let you know how it goes, all with detailed pictures. . .
EDIT- IS the oil pan gaset reuseable??? I'd like to drop the pan on the 5.4 and clean it. . .
EDIT- IS the oil pan gaset reuseable??? I'd like to drop the pan on the 5.4 and clean it. . .
Last edited by Camarothatcould; 10-29-2008 at 11:56 AM.
#9
The oil pan gasket is reusable. It should be made of rubber.
FWIW I have no problem with you contradicting me. If you find a way of snaking the engine in without removing the intake manifold please share it. I also do not doubt that you could have removed the 4.6 without removing the fan. I did it. But it was a F'ng pain in the ****.
It takes me 15 minutes to remove the intake manifold and 15 minutes to replace it. You will be draining the coolant to pull the engine so I take for granted that there is no coolant in either engine. With out the intake manifold installed I can park an engine on its mounts and start one of the transmission bolts it about 10 minutes with the intake removed. So in total time vs grief I prefer removing the intake manifold.
You should just for good measure inspect the tube going into the water pump for leaks. To properly do that you must remove the intake manifold. While you are there check on the knock sensor.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
FWIW I have no problem with you contradicting me. If you find a way of snaking the engine in without removing the intake manifold please share it. I also do not doubt that you could have removed the 4.6 without removing the fan. I did it. But it was a F'ng pain in the ****.
It takes me 15 minutes to remove the intake manifold and 15 minutes to replace it. You will be draining the coolant to pull the engine so I take for granted that there is no coolant in either engine. With out the intake manifold installed I can park an engine on its mounts and start one of the transmission bolts it about 10 minutes with the intake removed. So in total time vs grief I prefer removing the intake manifold.
You should just for good measure inspect the tube going into the water pump for leaks. To properly do that you must remove the intake manifold. While you are there check on the knock sensor.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
#10
I took everything off that got hit when pulling the 4.6. Everything still needs to be zip-tied out of the way still, just hanging there. Got some pics of the harness so you can make sure all the sensors are D/C'd and pics of the trans so you know you got all the bellhousing bolts out and the 3 bolts that hold the starter.
#12
Bell-housing look clean inside, that's a good sign. If you need any connectors/adapters/ lengthened wires or anything like that - Check this out -
http://www.thedetailzone.com/Flyer%202006-2.pdf
Also here -
http://www.source-products.com/public_html/pigtail.htm
http://www.thedetailzone.com/Flyer%202006-2.pdf
Also here -
http://www.source-products.com/public_html/pigtail.htm
Last edited by jbrew; 10-29-2008 at 02:23 PM.
#13
there is some metal from accidentally turning the engine over while it was running. . LOLz, that was before I cut muffler off, hasnt happened since then. .
ALSO. When unbolting the torque converter, its a 14MM, I did not have a box-end wrench long enough to reach them, I had to take my air hammer n chisel and eat away at the backing plating, then chok the flywheel, slip my socket n wrench in and bust all 4 nuts off. I have to take a wheel and clean up my backing/spacer plate now, but at least I'll have the best access to the torque converter nuts now
ALSO. When unbolting the torque converter, its a 14MM, I did not have a box-end wrench long enough to reach them, I had to take my air hammer n chisel and eat away at the backing plating, then chok the flywheel, slip my socket n wrench in and bust all 4 nuts off. I have to take a wheel and clean up my backing/spacer plate now, but at least I'll have the best access to the torque converter nuts now
#14
lets also keep all of this in mind.
QUOTED FROM JMC THE MAN HIMSELF
'In a nut shell you pull the 4.6 and install the 5.4. Use the 4.6 ignition and PCM. Temporarily cut the precats, the catalytic converters in the bend, and slip in some flex pipe then have a muffler shop weld in some solid pipes. Get tune from Troyer and you are good to go. Obviously your mechanic has never done any of these. Here are some detailed notes on the swap.
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 25 June 2008
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold. You will need to have a muffler shop modify your 4.6 exhaust to match up.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. . 2000 and later 4.6 use COP ignition. 1997-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs if applicable. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 may be too short so measure or test fit the harness to see if it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Torque Converters:
4R70W
ENGINE Stall Speed Multiplication
4.2 1978-2330 2.3:1
4.6 2105-2505 2.3:1
5.4 1830-2190 1.9:1
4R100
All ?????? 2.2:1
If you swap a 5.4 into a 4.6 engine bay and use the 4.6 converter you will multiply the 5.4's torque at a higher rate and at a higher stall speed which will put the torque at the transmission input shaft close to the limit if not over the limit of the 4R70W. The 99+ 5.4 produces 350 ft/lbs of torque. 90% of that is available at 2000 rpm. The stall speed of the 4.6 is above the 2000 rpm range so more than 90% is available. 350 ft/lbs x 2.3(4.6 multiplier) x 90% is 724.5 ft/lbs.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same for 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier'
QUOTED FROM JMC THE MAN HIMSELF
'In a nut shell you pull the 4.6 and install the 5.4. Use the 4.6 ignition and PCM. Temporarily cut the precats, the catalytic converters in the bend, and slip in some flex pipe then have a muffler shop weld in some solid pipes. Get tune from Troyer and you are good to go. Obviously your mechanic has never done any of these. Here are some detailed notes on the swap.
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 25 June 2008
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold. You will need to have a muffler shop modify your 4.6 exhaust to match up.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. . 2000 and later 4.6 use COP ignition. 1997-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs if applicable. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 may be too short so measure or test fit the harness to see if it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Torque Converters:
4R70W
ENGINE Stall Speed Multiplication
4.2 1978-2330 2.3:1
4.6 2105-2505 2.3:1
5.4 1830-2190 1.9:1
4R100
All ?????? 2.2:1
If you swap a 5.4 into a 4.6 engine bay and use the 4.6 converter you will multiply the 5.4's torque at a higher rate and at a higher stall speed which will put the torque at the transmission input shaft close to the limit if not over the limit of the 4R70W. The 99+ 5.4 produces 350 ft/lbs of torque. 90% of that is available at 2000 rpm. The stall speed of the 4.6 is above the 2000 rpm range so more than 90% is available. 350 ft/lbs x 2.3(4.6 multiplier) x 90% is 724.5 ft/lbs.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same for 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier'
#15
jbrew! where are you man! I need help getting this top bolt off the starter! You live in michigan its only an 8 hour drive! Come on down ill buy you lunch...haha how do i get this damn bolt out i am missing something here. It almost seems like i have to take the manifold off and reach it from the passanger front tire! Redicilous