AN "h" pipe is just a piece of exhaust tube that is ran across to connect both tubes. Picture it as a sideways H under your truck. The purpose of this is to equalize the pressure to be the same in both pipes. On a F150 the H pipe will be very short (2-6 inches) on other trucks where the duals can be ran on opposite sides of the vehicle. So IMO an H pipe doesn't have room to work well on a F150, an X pipe would be much better.

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97 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed, 3.55LS rear axle, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests
Sylvania Cool Blue Bulbs, Ford logo hitch and license plate, tinted windows, blackouts front and rear(w/ford logos on front blackouts),ventvisors all around, painted logos on door sills and under hood, 55w backup lights, K&N Filter, custom 4x4 emblems, cup holder/LED mod, 99 F150 Triton V8 emblems, and much more to come

 

Am I wrong in thinking that a dual in/dual out 50 series Flowmaster muffler would be almost the same has true duals with an
H-pipe. Provided that you take out the
y-pipe and run from each of the cats to the 50 series.

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99 F-150 XLT SuperCab Flareside, 4.6, 4x4 orp.

 

lok n load
Thanks for the info. Ithink this will be my next move.
y2knit

 

I dunno, this morning it seems as if I have lost nothing in the low end

I do, however, notice that I've been reving it and punching it a whole lot more since the duals sound so cool, and I'm getting the same, if not a little better mileage. So, if I do loose some in the low end, frankly, who cares? I'm getting better mileage, and I look and now sound cool (just a tiny bit slower until I upgrade my 3.08 and get me an 'H' pipe)


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Black 98 F150-XL, 2WD, 4.6L Slappin Windsor Triton, 5spd.,
RegCab, Short WB, 3.08 rear, Air, Rear Slider, FM40 True Duals
Triton V8 Badges, Duraliner Bedliner, K&N, Ziebart, Castrol Syntec
HAWK Plus Bedcap, profile+ wrap-around bug deflector,
Blazer Neon-Blue projector fogs, custom look'n door cracks
Tinting: #4 RearCab & Bedcap Windows, #2 Cabside Windows

My Site

 

Hi Briguy,
I am thinking the same thing, that the DI/DO Flomaster 50 will act sort of like an H or X pipe. I looked at one the other day and it looks like it is integral without any separation between the inlets or outlets. However, one disadvantage is that they want something like $190 or so for it. Personally, I wouldn't go that route unless I knew much more about that particular muffler and how it sounds/performs and if it truely acted as an H/X pipe.
GDG

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Stock Package: 2001 SuperCrew XLT, Silver, 5.4L, 4x4, 3.55 LS, Tow Package, 265x70x17, Sliding Rear Window,
Modifications: Tuff Spray-on Liner, JBA Headers Jet Black Coated, Ravin Z55 SI/DO Sideswept Catback, K&N FIPK with fabricated cold-air box and ram-air, SuperChip, ASP Pullies, 1" Thick Sheepskin seat covers (nice "seat-of-the-pants" feel!), Nerf Bars, PIAA Superwhites, 65W (9006) Fog Lights, Dual 14" Perma-Cool Fans w/ stock shroud, Baumann Shift Kit on Stage 4 with Sonnex Bypass Clutch control Valve, B&M Deep Trans Pan, Pillar mounted Autometer Ultra-Lite Water and Tranny Temperature Gages, Amsoil front to back, TPS Mod to 0.999, Custom ported TB.
Future mods - Roots Supercharger, modified sterio system

 

Wow $190.00
I don't know GoDogGo, might be too much,
but if it did perform great, I might do it.
Somebody here should know about it.

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99 F-150 XLT SuperCab Flareside, 4.6, 4x4 orp.

 

I got true duals on my ride. Any good shop can make the H-pipe. That's what they did for mine. They took down the old exhaust. And of coarse they pre-fit the new one checking the bends and everything. Once that is done, they can ethier burn or cut holes in the sides of the two pipes. In my case they were cut. Looks like one of those bits you cut a door with to put a doorknob in with, but only this is for metal of coarse. Cut the holes. Cut a piece of tube and weld it on. Then install the flows and so on. You couldn't tell the difference. Nice job. Now this is something that has to be done on NEW installations. Well, you can have it done with the exhaust already up, but the holes would have to be burned, unless you some extra cash your willing to part with. Got mine done for 325.00. That was 2 years ago an still running strong. Top quality job. I hope this helps, it's just a thought to save money. Why 190.00 when it can get done for way less and same performance.

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1997 F-150 XLT 4X4 Off-Road
4.6L Auto.
3.55 Gears
All Power Interior
Tilt Wheel
Cruise Control
Sliding Rear Window
17" Rims W/ Goodyear RT/S P265-70R-17's
Cervini's Ram Air Hood
K&N Gen.
SUPERCHIP
True Dual Flowmasters
3" Chrome Tips
GTS Carbon Fiber Headlight Covers
Ford Motorsport Chrome Rear Cover
Ford Racing Duraliner
Lund Backdraft
35% Tinted Windows
Ultra Bright Headlights & Fog Lights
Pioneer DEH-9300 Head Unit
Pioneer EQ-6520 10-Channel Equalizer
4-Pioneer TS-P682 6x8 2-Way Components Speakers
2-Pioneer TS-A6995 6x9 4-Way Speakers
Pioneer TS-WX65A Amplified 6 1/2" Sub
Pioneer GM-X924 65 Watt 4-Channel Amp
Bel 980 Radar Detector
Viper Alarm
Rancho RSX Shocks Front and Rear
Lumi Logo Front Ford Emblem
Billet 4X4 Third Brake Light Cover
Ford F-Series Floor Mats
Ford Valve Stem Caps
Class III Hitch
Ford Hitch Receiver Cover
Westin Chrome Nerf Bars
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so you have to get an H-Pipe to get an increase or maintain your low end torque? And cutting the Y-pipe or flowmasters is the same as buying an h-Pipe? Can anyone verify this?