I have a California 1997 F-150 4wd that failed smog. After receiving quote of $1500 to replace cats (remember, I said Calif), I decided to buy "direct fit" cats and install myself. I'm in the middle of installation and need help!

My main question is this. The direct fit set looks identical to the original, so I figure what ever I have to do to remove the original, I will have to do for the installation too. So, I want to remove the originals without cutting them up and I've almost got them out except the torsion bar crossmember seems to be in the way. I don't want to remove the crossmember unless I have to because I don't have any special tools to "unload" the tension on bars.

Does anyone know of a way to remove the original exhaust system without cutting the pipes or removing the tension bar crossmember? I can seperate the leftside exhaust from the rightside at the crossover tube, but I still can't get it out.

Thanks for all replys!

 

I am in the same boat, Ringhand. I live in San Diego and I was quoted 1900 bucks by the local dealer and about 1500 bucks at local muffler shops to replace all four cats... no way. I bought 4 replacement cats(factory style) from a aftermarket cat company today, should recieve them tomorrow. All i need to do is have a company weld them in.

Now to answer some questions...
How did your cats fail? Are you sure it was your cats causing you not to pass smog? My cats exploded in my pipes do to gas being in the exhaust... this makes me tend to believe that my piping is really dirty/clogged. I have opted to get all new piping installed with the new cats.

I have a question for you Ringhand... How are you installing this yourself?

I do not think that it is a great idea to put clamp style couplings on your converters AT ALL. They MUST be welded in. If they are not welded in you will just have more problems than its worth, problems with rattling, leaking, and heat?

Let me know how you plan on doing the install - Like i said i am in the same boat. Also what part of california are you in?

WhiteFord

P.S. I bought the cats from Hottexhaust.com which has awesome customer technical assistance, plus all f150online.com members get 20% off! deals, baby.

 

WhiteFord,
Let's see if I can answer a few of your questions. My cats failed I would say because of one of several items. First of all, I have about 270,000 miles on them! Add that to old oxygen sensors, clogged EGR lines (discovered during cleaning of the throttle body) possibly causing an over rich condition and I guess you could see why they have given up the ghost.

Yes, I'm sure the cats are part of the reason I failed smog so miserably this time. The mechanic took temperature readings before and after the cats to help check on their condition.

Yes, I'm installing them myself and yes I do know how to weld however I do not plan on doing any welding at all. I didn't just buy cats though, I bought the exhaust pipes with cats already welded in place. They are called "direct fit" cats. You can find them by doing a google search on the web.

I'll warn you though, it's tough to find them for Calif. Most places advertise "all vehicles except Calif". I had to order them through a vendor in New York, who bought them from Canada... Go figure! They come with welded flanges on the ends of exhaust pipe to bolt directly to the exhaust manifolds, the cats are welded in place, drilled holes for the oxy sensors and they include the cross over pipe to connect one side of the exhuast to the other. They are made to basically replace the original exhaust system - minus the muffle and tailpipe and they are a perfect match to what's under your truck now. They're actually great! And by the way, the original system from Ford is clamped together in a few places, after the cats too.

By the way, I'm in the East Bay Area of Northern Ca.

Let me know if I can be of anymore help and good luck!

 

Hey White Ford,
I forgot to ask, what part of San Diego are you from?

Ringhand

 

WOW.

I tried so hard to find something THAT easy. How much did you spend on those direct fit converters? What vendor did you get them from?

Damn - That seems TOO easy.

I thought that you were going to put clamps directly on the converters to add pipe. With that part already pre-assembled, You can just add a coupling to connect the Cat Back to the intermediate piping.

Your stock truck might just have pipe from front to back, no flanges or couplings so you might have to grab the sawzall and cut it exactly where your intermediate pipe ends off of the direct fit cats? Usually at shops they have your truck on a lift, and it is really easy to twist and turn and drop out the exhaust.

I tried to look EVERYWHERE for something with the pipe and flanges to easily bolt back into where the cats are now. No luck, unbelievably. No body wanted to help me...

If you can let me know where you picked those up i will most likely return the ones i have.

 

im in Southern Cali

WOW i found some direct fit converters for the truck, but that price is almost the same price as rebuilt ones. 672.99 for the left bank and 392 for the right. And it doesnt look like my sensors will plug back into the downstream cat.


Damn, i got all 4 obd2 replacements for $215 bucks

 

WhiteFord,
I got my set at "The Exhaust Warehouse". They are located in Richmond Hill, NY. You can find them on the WEB. I have their phone number at work, I'll get it for you tomorrow.

I paid $699 total - out the door for both pieces. This gives you a brand new (not rebuilt) exhaust system from the engine to just short of the muffler. I checked my old oxygen sensors and they screwed in perfectly. Of coarse I'll be buying new ones.

Also, you mentioned that I'll need a coupler, but it's even easier than that. They flared the end that goes into the original exhaust just before the muffler. This is how your original exhaust is now. These are made to clamp in the same places as the existing original. All I really have to do is buy 2 new clamps if I don't want to use the old ones. That's it....everything else slides into place and bolts together. Nothing else to buy. Unbolt the old set, bolt up the new ones. Nice huh?

My only issue is because I have a 97 4wd, I have to contend with Torsion bars. If it wasn't for that, it would have been about a 3 hour job - max.

Ringhand

 

The california smog issue is so damn silly.

Makes us spend more money and headaches than its worth. I know that the cats are the same either way you look at it, but for some reason cali finds a way to fine us like crazy.. its ridiculous. They should be fining the rich businesses.

Im glad i didnt give in to their BS tho...

 

WhiteFord,
The number I called to get pricing and order my cats is:

1-800-965-0040

They are tax free (New York) and shipping is also free.

Good Luck

 

I'll just jump in here for a bit.......
I did a bit of research on this and discovered that when cats need to be replaced, the cat needs to be the same as was originally on the vehicle from the factory. That means if your vehicle is OBDI, then you have to install an OBDI cat. If it's an OBDII vehicle, you must install an OBDII cat.
OBDII cats have O2 sensor connections at the inlet and outlet. OBDI cats don't. Here's an example: My wife's 95 Dakota failed smog. Took it to another place for a diagnostic and said the cat caused the failure. They quoted me $495.00 for an OBDII cat. I called my local muffler shop and he quoted $159.00 and said that since my vehicle is an OBDI, he has to install an OBDI cat. The O2 sensor is up close to the exaust manifold.
OBDII cat: mucho bucks.
OBDI cat: reasonable cost.
Just my .02 cents.

Reloader

 

Reloader you are absolutly correct. You have to be careful when getting quotes that you are buying a match to the original equipment. That is why I had such a hard time finding my set as they are OBDII compliant.

ringhand

 

Ok here goes. You dont say if you have the 5.4 or the 4.6 but that really doesn't matter. Both systems are in two pieces. The 4.6 splits in two where it crosses over underneath the Transfer Case. On the 5.4 it splits in two just before the Y pipe. Remove the muffler assy. Remove the T case Skid plate, jack up the tranny to support it and remove the transmission cross member. Break the exhaust apart there and pull it off.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Actually JMC, you don't have to mess with the tranny. The exhaust crossover bolts to the backside of the tranny crossmember and once you unbolt it from there, it's free of the tranny crossmember. However there is about 6" of the exhaust pipe on passanger side past the Y that runs up and over the torsion bar crossmember. This is the only item that keeps if from falling on the ground. All I have to do is knock the torsion bar crossmember back a few inches towards the rear. I found a way to release the torsion bar pressure using a two jaw gear puller so, weather permitting, I should have it completed tomorrow.

Thanks for your reply,
Ringhand

 

When I do a clutch job I mark the T-bar bolts and simply unscrew them. The adjusters then are loose enough to be pushed off the bars. When I am done I reassemble and just tighten the bolt back up to the mark. No need for the remover tool.

JMC

 

JMC,
Okay, time for me to eat a little crow here. I worked all day and completed the new exhaust installation. I'm writing this followup for others to read. I am convinced JCM that you will not learn much from it as I'm sure this is only review for you. You were right about several items, my hat's off to you! (Where were you before I started this project!)

I learned several things during todays labor. First of all, I didn't realize that Ford is all metric. When did that happen? Guess it's been a few years since I turned a wrench on one. Also, make sure you have both short and deep throat 18mm sockets. And make sure you have a 18mm box/open wrench. Seems most of my socket sets skipped the 18mm and went from 17 to 19mm. Don't know why. Also, I had the best luck installing the oxygen sensors with using a 22mm wrench.

And I learned JMC was right, you don't really need to remove the torsion bar crossmember if you remove the tranny crossmember instead. Only positive thing I can say about removing the torsion bar crossmember is that by knocking it back towards the rear, it gave me a place to set a 2x4 to rest the tranny on while I proceeded with the tranny crossmember removal.

And I learned I didn't have to rent a gear puller to assist in the torsion bar removal. Again, JMC was right on the money, one isn't necessary. Still had to pay a $8 rental minimum though.

I did manage to use come up with a little common sense on my own, although I see JMC has already been there and done that too! I (to my credit - before reading JMC's last post) took an old bottle of white out and painted a mark on the torsion bar adjustment bolts before backing out. It worked perfectly to help adjust back to the original settings.

I took my time, double checked alignment before tighting all bolts and can proudly boast success. I would like to thank everyone who wrote in this thread for their helpful suggestions and I invite all others to feel free to email me if they should have any particuliar questions that I might be able to help answer.

Ringhand