Received early Christmas present from Constable D**chbag on my way to work this week. Expalined how 3 mechanics have beeen unable to solve my little red light problem, showed him my Failed Inspection Report and receipts for O2 Sensors, MAS, etc.

I must appear befor the Honorable Judge S**mbag nect month to explain why I am driving a vehicle w/o an inspection tag. Will probably have to dropcar off at a mechanic for a few days and cab to work. This has become a vert aggravating, expensive experience and personally I hope the POS catches on Fire. I have full coverage.

 

Happy Leftover Day to all. Did some more digging under the hood. Removed the IAC and cleaned it with brake cleaner and while it was off decided to remove the trunk for the K&N filter. Found a sensor behind the Brand new MAF sensor. It looked like a match tip. No Idea what it's for. As I removed the trunk I found a U-shaped tear in the rubber bell that connects the K&N Trunk to the Throttle Body. Could this be the air leak that is causing the system to run lean? Stay tuned.

 

Question...
We have a ford windstar 2000 minivan...
Last month the check engine light came on (the same day i was supposed to go to I &M for new tags) went and got it looked at, control linkage busted, they fixed it...
well fast forward to last week...light came back on, took it in today...
Was told that it was running lean on the front, that the front O2 sensors needed changed out and so did the mass air needed replaced as well...
(they said it was running the same codes as last time...so why didnt they catch it then?)

Stumbled on this forum and these postings and am now concerned we were just taken by this business We have almost 60,000 miles on the van...I had them do the 60,000mile tuneup today as well...)
Now i sit here wondering if we just spent out a huge chunk of change that we really didnt have in the first place needlessly and if the problem is just going to resurface soon!

Im hoping for a reply...
worried,
justamom

 

Yep, that will make it run lean.

 

I fixed the leak with electric tape (temporary until new rubber coupling is obtained from MAP) Do you thing the computer will reset after the usual 40 mile drive cycles?

 

repaired leak to rubber intale coupling.Reset codes. CEL came back on in 4 miles.

Replaced MAS, 2 O2's, No Vacuum leaks, New Alt, plugs, What else could it be causing truck to run lean??

 

Just A Mom,
I'd post a new topic in this forum, you'll likely get more replies that way versus "highjacking" another thread.

IMHO I don't think you can do anything about your first repair, I think the second repair likely fixed your problem though I'm skeptical that all of the parts that were replaced actually needed replacement...though these items do wear out over time (well, O2 sensors; the MAF can be cleaned) so they should be good for a long time to come.

 

Bosch is JUNK!!!! I would NEVER buy another Bosch 02 sensor from Autozone or Oreillys again... Long story short, I have bought quite a few of them over the years for my cars. Over half of them are bad from the start or fail within fifty miles of installation. I would say if they are fairly new, pull them back out and return them to Autozone at least for an exchange. The only reason I purchased them, was due to they were cheap compared to the 02 sensors from the dealers.. It was a pita dealing with the sensors though just to save a little money... The codes being thrown were mainly failure of the heater element. This was in all General motors vehicles...

 

The vacume leak I speak of is easier to find if you have a scan tool and can watch fuel trims while using propane or carb cleaner. The bolts and seals are to seal the lower plastic plenum to the aluminim manifold. This is a VERY common failure (bolts mainly, but I replace the seals while I'm there). I don't know how to post pic's or I'd show you what I'm talking about. And this goes for both 4.2l f150's (with plastic intake) and 3.8l windstars(99-up)

3F2Z-9S479-AA Is the part number for the leaky bolts.

 

Just had the upper and lower plenum gaskets replaced. There was a leak. Carb cleaner sprayed there turned the exhuast white.

Drove car 12 miles and CEL is ON again. Mechanic will check again. Perhaps was installed improperly. Will check codes and see if it is something else.

 

Folks:

STOP replacing your frickin' O2 sensors. There is no specific code that says "O2 sensors are bad." O2 sensors are tattletells, their readings are influences by outside parameters, either too much or too little oxygen.

Stop throwing parts at the damn truck in a desperate attempt to fix it. I'm guessing the codes you got were P0171, 0174, 1131 and/or 1151. Closely inspect all the vacuum hoses and rubber elbows, especially in the PCV system. There's updated intake bolts that seal better (yes, vacuum leaks can occur through the bolts themselves). At this point, and with all due respect, you might want to seek the guidance of someone who knows what they're doing.

 

There is no specific code that says "O2 sensors are bad." O2 sensors are tattletells, their readings are influences by outside parameters, either too much or too little oxygen.

Unless you get a p0131, p0132, p0133, p0151, p0152, p0153
or heater circuit codes, you need to look elsewhere. Try taking it to a qualified technician.

Shop diag $60/hr
Aftermarket o2 sensor $75 ea
Re Diag $60/hr
More wrong parts $$$$$

Taking it to a Qualified technician and having it fixed correctly the first time

"PRICELESS" and most times cheaper too in the grand spectrum of things


Not to change the topic, but has anyone reading this purchased from directfordparts.com???????