Roush Cold Air Intake
#32
911 DISP, I'm glad to hear you are not having any trouble. For the life of me, I can't figure out why mine rattles. It's a high pitched rattle / drone noise. I've looked it over several times and can't find anything that is not tight. I even tightened. the clamps more on the rubber extension tube and air filter. If I can't get it figured out, I'm taking it off. I'm going to call Roush this week and see what they have to say. I wish they were close to me so I could take them for a drive!
#33
Just to add a little math/science to the discussion...
It was in the late '60's that Chevy (or it could have been GM) engineers came up with a formula to recalculate HP relative to air intake temperature. The research discovered a 1% increase in HP for every 10 degree reduction in air intake temperature.
While the increase is very real, I think it problematic whether one would feel the difference in normal "stoplight-to-stoplight" driving. Even at the dragstrip, you don't really feel it in the seat of your pants. However, the HP increase is definitely there.
I designed a cold air system for my '56 Chevy. It's a low 12 second car. I made four passes, all within 2 hours. The 1st without the cold air set up, the 2nd with it, the 3rd without and the 4th with it. With the cold air set up my ET dropped 1.5 tenths. That's one hell of a lot of benefit considering the cost. However, without a time slip, I wouldn't have known the difference.
There is another variable to consider...obstruction. My '56 is pretty basic in that the only thing atop the carburetor is a generic/simple 4" high 16" dia. air cleaner. Literally no obstruction whatsoever. As all of you know, the intake on a late model car/truck has a lot more to it. That said, I guess it's possible to pick up some additional HP (in addition to the pick up from the cold air)from just cleaning up/simplifying the intake.
Back to my test, later in the day I made two more passes to see what, if any, difference the air cleaner element made. I made one pass with it and another with out it. Nada.
Food for thought.
It was in the late '60's that Chevy (or it could have been GM) engineers came up with a formula to recalculate HP relative to air intake temperature. The research discovered a 1% increase in HP for every 10 degree reduction in air intake temperature.
While the increase is very real, I think it problematic whether one would feel the difference in normal "stoplight-to-stoplight" driving. Even at the dragstrip, you don't really feel it in the seat of your pants. However, the HP increase is definitely there.
I designed a cold air system for my '56 Chevy. It's a low 12 second car. I made four passes, all within 2 hours. The 1st without the cold air set up, the 2nd with it, the 3rd without and the 4th with it. With the cold air set up my ET dropped 1.5 tenths. That's one hell of a lot of benefit considering the cost. However, without a time slip, I wouldn't have known the difference.
There is another variable to consider...obstruction. My '56 is pretty basic in that the only thing atop the carburetor is a generic/simple 4" high 16" dia. air cleaner. Literally no obstruction whatsoever. As all of you know, the intake on a late model car/truck has a lot more to it. That said, I guess it's possible to pick up some additional HP (in addition to the pick up from the cold air)from just cleaning up/simplifying the intake.
Back to my test, later in the day I made two more passes to see what, if any, difference the air cleaner element made. I made one pass with it and another with out it. Nada.
Food for thought.
#34
I called Roush last Monday and spoke to a guy name Evan. He said they have had some trouble with some rattle around the heat shield. He said he needed to talk to another Roush employee who was more familiar with this problem, took my name and number down, and would call me back in a day or so. It's been a week and no calls from anyone! I called late Friday, got the "all lines are busy" recording, and left a voice mail in the general mail box for Evan, or someone, to call me back Monday. I'll see if they do. At least I know I'm not the only one who had this problem!
#36
Originally Posted by Akita
911 DISP, I'm glad to hear you are not having any trouble. For the life of me, I can't figure out why mine rattles. It's a high pitched rattle / drone noise. I've looked it over several times and can't find anything that is not tight. I even tightened. the clamps more on the rubber extension tube and air filter. If I can't get it figured out, I'm taking it off. I'm going to call Roush this week and see what they have to say. I wish they were close to me so I could take them for a drive!
#37
#39
Fellas,
I believe the problem is a "metal to metal" vibration where the air dam is bolted to the wheel well structuring.
The first thing you want to do is go tap around – with your finger - on the back and inside of the air dam so you see what I mean.
Next, go to your local ace hardware and get some felt dots (they're adhesive backed pieces of precut felt, about ¼” diameter)
Then remove the air dam and use your own good judgment to place them in any areas in-between the air dam and it's "seat".
It will also seems to make more noise when it's cold out but I think this has to do with the material that the elbow is made of.
I'd be interested to hear what the guys at Roush have to say; when I called them months ago, they said they'd not yet heard of such an issue.
-SGT Paavo
I believe the problem is a "metal to metal" vibration where the air dam is bolted to the wheel well structuring.
The first thing you want to do is go tap around – with your finger - on the back and inside of the air dam so you see what I mean.
Next, go to your local ace hardware and get some felt dots (they're adhesive backed pieces of precut felt, about ¼” diameter)
Then remove the air dam and use your own good judgment to place them in any areas in-between the air dam and it's "seat".
It will also seems to make more noise when it's cold out but I think this has to do with the material that the elbow is made of.
I'd be interested to hear what the guys at Roush have to say; when I called them months ago, they said they'd not yet heard of such an issue.
-SGT Paavo
#40
#41
I still have not hear back from Roush. I called today and spoke to a girl about this. She said the guy I spoke to is there but on the phone and would call me back today. I'm not real happy with the response I'm gettting from Roush customer service, that is for sure. But, I'll wait to see if the guy calls back today.
Regarding the Roush lettering, I did tighten that up as much as I could. I really could not see how metal on plastic could make so much noise but I still made sure it was tight.
Regarding the air dam, I agree that it might be from that. There really is not much else that could rattle, plus it's metal to metal. Even the guy at Roush I initially spoke to made a comment about that.
Regarding buying an AF1, I've already bought a Roush for $300, it better damn well work! I'm sure I could buy a handful of others, but I'm not going to just keep buying CAI until I get one that works! I really didn't see much trouble on the Roush from all that I read (pretty much is the Airraid CAI) so I went with it.
Regarding the Roush lettering, I did tighten that up as much as I could. I really could not see how metal on plastic could make so much noise but I still made sure it was tight.
Regarding the air dam, I agree that it might be from that. There really is not much else that could rattle, plus it's metal to metal. Even the guy at Roush I initially spoke to made a comment about that.
Regarding buying an AF1, I've already bought a Roush for $300, it better damn well work! I'm sure I could buy a handful of others, but I'm not going to just keep buying CAI until I get one that works! I really didn't see much trouble on the Roush from all that I read (pretty much is the Airraid CAI) so I went with it.
#42
The AF1 I bought was about $270 from Troyer. I had a vibration/humming type sound the first couple of weeks.. being an idiot it took me that long to realize that I hadn't seated the two studs completely through the factory rubber grommets underneath the "heat shield".. a touch of silicon grease and they popped through, no more vibration.
Not be an a-hole about it, but there are so many threads here asking about problems with CAI's.. whistling, drone, vibration, what have you. The only one that seems to be the lesser with these problems is the AF1.
There seems to be a lot of issues with a lot of CAI's, a lot of "I called/emailed them, still waiting / it's normal for it to sound like that/ we're working on it... etc.."
I don't find the AF1 to be any more expensive than other CAI's. It looks very good under the hood. It improves performance. It sounds incredible. It hasn't hydro-locked my engine. Troyer Performance recommends it for our trucks above other CAI's. What more could a growing boy ask for?!!.. LOL..
Not be an a-hole about it, but there are so many threads here asking about problems with CAI's.. whistling, drone, vibration, what have you. The only one that seems to be the lesser with these problems is the AF1.
There seems to be a lot of issues with a lot of CAI's, a lot of "I called/emailed them, still waiting / it's normal for it to sound like that/ we're working on it... etc.."
I don't find the AF1 to be any more expensive than other CAI's. It looks very good under the hood. It improves performance. It sounds incredible. It hasn't hydro-locked my engine. Troyer Performance recommends it for our trucks above other CAI's. What more could a growing boy ask for?!!.. LOL..
#43
TexEdition, How does your AF1 sound you got from Troyer in your truck? Is there any sound differance with them or just a looks and HP gain? Im new to the CAI and need some input on brands, Pros cons ect... best bang for the buck.
I have a 2005 FX4 2005 with SI/DO Magaflow exhaust system if it helps with bigger tires.
Thanks!
I have a 2005 FX4 2005 with SI/DO Magaflow exhaust system if it helps with bigger tires.
Thanks!