It's actually pretty close to the other pipe. I was hoping to just bend the pipe back in a little, but the pipe from first cylinder in that bank is right there.

 

Doesn't that sound like an easier first step?

 

Honestly, I have no idea. I haven't looked at what it takes to loosen a mount to jack up the moter, or given it that much thought. Are you thinking I can just jack the moter up a bit... and give the jack a good kick or something? Is there a little bit of play between the mounts that I can shift the motor over? I probably only need a sixteenth or so.

How many mounts are there? How far can I jack up without causing any issues? Probably don't want to jack above the mount bolts...
Where do I set the jack at?

Like I said before, I've never messed around with the motor mounts before. But, I've never messed with headers before and look how well that went! What could possible go wrong?

 

Let me say first....I haven't used this trick on an F150, but its worked well on others. I'll add a few steps...

...Loosen both mounts.

...Jack under the side opposite the clearance problem, use a block of wood up under the oil pan rail or something like that if need be.

...Tighten the mount on the same side as the clearance issue.

...Let the jack down, see if you gained clearance...

There's usually some play in mounts, that may be all if takes to gain some clearance. Its worth at least taking a look at before you go pulling a header off.

 

I'd try shifting the motor mounts first. Seems like the two bolts that hold the bottom on have some room to slide, that may get you clearance. Havent really looked at mine but you may even be able to add a slight spacer under the motor mounts to get it raised enough for clearance. Maybe a half an inch solid steel plate. I've jacked my motor up, it's pretty easy to get the mounts free and shift it around. It will go way up before hitting anything, I removed my oil pan by jacking up the motor.
As far as flatening, I'd take a block of wood and use a hole saw to cut the same diameter hole in it. Then cut the block and half, use that to put on the tube and pry against it so you don't bend the tube, the whole pipe may bend in enough to get clearance. I'd try to bend the tube first and see if it even acts like it will bend. My last resort would be flattening the tube.

 

Ended up flattening the header yesterday. I did take a look at shifting the motor. But, with all the rusting it looked like getting the motor mounts was gonna be a bugger. 2x4 might be easier on the driver side.

I was surprised how quick and easy that header came out. Compared to getting the original manifold off, this was a breeze.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...382&anum=16108

So far no contact. I can't tell you how much having that header contacting the frame was causing vibration and noise. Huge difference!

Thanks for the help and suggestions!

 

Hope that doesnt cause a weak point in the header. Dont know how much you shaved off but if you took to much the header might get a hole in it.... And that wouldnt be good.

 

I Think he just flattened it, didnt shave it.

 

Right... I just beat on it with a hammer.

 

hehe thats my fav. thing to do...just get a big hammer and start hitting away... if it doesnt break get a bigger one.....used a 10lbs sludge hammer to take off my rear shocks

 

Yeah... once I got over my anxiety. Wasn't too thrilled at first about pounding on a Dynatech header... the things are too dam expensive to be breaking one doing something stupid. But once I realized they weren't gonna break too easy... it was good fun!