Hey guys,

I have a 98 f150 5.4l 4x4 with 170 mi on it, and it has the famous broken manifold stud(s), maybe more than the one I noticed. I am considering fixing it soon, but am also interested in going with pacesetter lt headers instead of getting my stock manifolds milled and repainted. I am just wondering what sort of things I should watch out for, such as pre-cats being in the way for getting it all hooked up, O2's, EGR connection, ETC. I am also interested if anyone has a dyno sheet showing me what I can expect to gain, truck already has no main cats, true duels, and superchips tuner. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

um i think roush just got his dyno back from his OBX long tubes he picked up 40 Ft lbs and like 20-25 HP over either shorites or stock manifold i cant rember. Pacesetter long tubes have Slip fit collectors on the Quick trip long tubes. Since you have the 5.4L your EGR will fit right in The only prob people are having are people like me buying 5.4L headers for our 4.6L the EGR on the 5.4L is bigger but you wont have to worry about that. You will need some more wire than what pacesetter give you in the kit *speaker wire works fine* Pacesetter does send all of the Crimps you will need to crimp all the wire togther. Pre-cats??? the long tubes go all the way under the truck almost to the crossmember so you will have to take all of that off before you put the headers in. On the 5.4L alot of people are having to remove the starter to get the headers in there. I have pacesetter Quicktrip on my 97 4.6L and i could feel i picked up some pony and TQ from the butt-dyno i have yet to go back and dyno after.

 

I started my install of the OBX LTs on thursday evening after work. I finally got the headers mounted up this morning. The starter is sort of a problem. It makes for an extremely tight fit of the passenger side header. When I say tight, I mean it hits but can be shoved through. The starter is really easy to remove with the manifold and Y pipe off, but once you put the header on, it's in the way of putting the starter back on, but like most things, it can be done with the right tools, patients and help is always nice. As far as removing the manifold nuts, I was about 60/40 pulling studs out, with the studs coming out 60% of the time. The passenger side topr rear bolt was broke already. If it goes like it has gone for me so far, you want some easy out tools to get the broken studs out. The one that was broke, broke again even deeper and I had one other break that has been holding me up. I was starting to think no bolts were the same size on mine. The manifolds were a mix of 12mm and 1/2" which may have been partly due to rust. Where the manifolds bolted to the Y pipe one bolt was 9/16" and one was 13mm. The EGR went back on no poroblem. Since you have to mess with the cats, you might as well get two high flows to replace the factory four. I'm actually waiting on getting my O2 bungs welded on to my cat so I can finish up the install. Apparently the plague has been going around at work this week and the guy who was going to do my stainless welding has it and hasn't been in all week. Make sure you have the tools for it. Short sockets, deep sockets, 1/4" drives, 3/8" drive, short extensions, long extensions, swivels, sawzall, drills incase a stud breaks not that you'll be able to fit it in there real well anyway. I may be making it sound worse than it is but my experience with it hasn't gone well so far.

 

yeah i got lucky with the nuts/studs when i frist took my manifolds off. all the nuts were froze on the studs and all of my studs came out all nice and easy. But yeah have stud removers and easy outs just incase. The pacesetter headers have 8MM 12 point bolts so you will need 12 point wrenchs and sockets..*had to go buy some*

Install all depends on how skilled you are and how much stuff goes right or wrong..

Built54 said he switched shorties to longtubes in only 4 hours!!

Any more questions just post um we can help you out

 

I can definitely see how he did it in 4 hours. If you know what you're doing, have all the right tools and everything goes smooth, it should go very quick. Built obviously wasn't dealing with the stock rusted manifolds though when he did it in 4 hours. Having taken everything off before and new stuff on was a huge benefit. The OBX kit didn't come with studs or bolts except for where the collecter attaches to the mid pipes. Which was fine because I had ordered a set of Stage 8 Locking Header bolts. I was one short which turned out fine anyway.

Regardless of whether you replace the nuts/ studs with 6 or 12 point nuts or bolts, you definitely are going to want 6 point sockets to remove the old rusted ones so you don't strip them.

 

i was saying if he gets the pacesetters they come with the 12 point bolts in the kit.The quick trips do at least.

But yes use 6 point on the old rusty ones.

 

I know Just clarifying. I do that. I like for things to be as clear as possible. Sometimes to the extent of OCD.

 

haha thats fine.

 

Im looking at putting on the Pacesetter LT's over the summer. I have three questions.

1) Were would i get a stud remover?
2) What is a good way to keep the bolts from backing out?
3) Do i need to by gaskets for the headers?

Thanks

 

1. Pretty sure you can get one at like autozone or murrys or any place that sells tools.

2. Anti seeze even thoe on my bolts for my shorties *pacesetter* and my longtubes*pacesetter* i didnt put any anti seeze on and they didnt back out and the shorties were on for 3 years.

3.Pacesetter sends headers gaskets wire crimps and bolts with the Quick trip kits. i used the gasket that came with the kit on both my shorties and longtubes without coating. alot of guys coat the gaskets with Copper RTV or get copper gaskets. But i didnt use that on my shorties and they did fine for 3 years. But its better i guess. i was just in a hurry lol.

4. Also make sure you tell them 4.6L! or they will send the 5.4L headers and you will have to get the EGR reducer!! or an EGR delete.

Any more questions me and Jbrew have pacesetter longtubes and we can help you out. ive always been a fan of Pacesetter since i had the shorties last 3 michigan winters with no probs they just got rusty.

 

Spend the extra money on a set of locking headers bolts. And you'll never have to worry about them backing out!

Phil

 

or just tighten the crap outta them

 

Thanks for the help. Also i have been debating about getting them with the ceramic coating or just the painted ones. Suggestions?

 

the armor coated are better of course but if u dont want to spend the money just get the painted ones and it would be a good idea to sand blast them and coat them with high temp exhaust paint

 

alright, also pacesetter are slip fit at the end of the LTs?