Cracked Exhaust Manifold
#1
12-04-2008 | 01:46 PM
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From: Canada
Cracked Exhaust Manifold
2004 F150 5.4 V8 120,000km
The passanger side manifold is cracked, a big crack. Has anyone relaced a manifold before?
Crawling under the truck reveals a lack of working space. My chilton book makes the job sound too easy: remove starter, remove inner fender, remove nuts/bolts, remove exhuast manifold, reverse.
I'm tempted to take it into FORD as the alluminum heads and small studs scare me. I can just see it now. Working on the last nut and snap. The book suggest replacing the studs and nuts.
thoughts?
The passanger side manifold is cracked, a big crack. Has anyone relaced a manifold before?
Crawling under the truck reveals a lack of working space. My chilton book makes the job sound too easy: remove starter, remove inner fender, remove nuts/bolts, remove exhuast manifold, reverse.
I'm tempted to take it into FORD as the alluminum heads and small studs scare me. I can just see it now. Working on the last nut and snap. The book suggest replacing the studs and nuts.
thoughts?
#2
12-04-2008 | 02:22 PM
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From: NW Indiana
Soak the studs/nuts in PB Blaster overnight and go in there. But if your scarred to have a stu dbreak and dont have the tools/ know-how of drilling and tapping into a tight working space into ALUMINUM I'd take it to a dealer. I've done plenty of these and studs snap left and right, when they snap yet leave thread soutside you normally weld the nut to the stud and try again, sometimes that weld breaks and you start over.
I SUGGGEST to go in there, start breaking nuts loose, if none give you a problem then go for it. I dont replace with FORD nuts and studs though, I just throw bolts in there. . .
I SUGGGEST to go in there, start breaking nuts loose, if none give you a problem then go for it. I dont replace with FORD nuts and studs though, I just throw bolts in there. . .
#3
12-04-2008 | 06:02 PM
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Never thought of putting my own bolts in there. Better I dea than putting the crappy studs back in. I've got the tools ( not the welder ) But I hate Murphy's law. I can guarantee that if a stud breaks, it will be in the tightest spot. If it wasn't so close to x-mas I'd just give the dealer the head ache and the money. I think I'llend up doing this one, I have a ball joint to replace as well on that side, so I may as well make a day of it.
As for the manifold, should I get a new one or a used one? Is new better or has a used one proven it's self?
As for the manifold, should I get a new one or a used one? Is new better or has a used one proven it's self?
#4
12-04-2008 | 06:08 PM
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From: NW Indiana
any used one will probably had some blow by, which kinda flakes the metal away. So figure youd have to take it to get surfaced milled also.
heres where I spent several house drilling and tapping studs out. . . 98 4.6
its going to be a tight spot, just remove your wheel well and you tire, have plenty of room.
heres where I spent several house drilling and tapping studs out. . . 98 4.6
its going to be a tight spot, just remove your wheel well and you tire, have plenty of room.
Last edited by Camarothatcould; 12-04-2008 at 06:11 PM.
#6
12-05-2008 | 04:30 PM
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Are the Stainless stronger? I think I will just get a new set of studs and nuts from the dealer.
I did a set of headers on a chev I used to have. I purchased allen key bolts for the headers. I think they were grade 7 bolts. They use them up hear on the lumber mills so they were cost effective.
I did a set of headers on a chev I used to have. I purchased allen key bolts for the headers. I think they were grade 7 bolts. They use them up hear on the lumber mills so they were cost effective.