125,000 replaced passenger side
Driver side needs doing. How much should I expect to pay for the driveers side with busted bolts?

 

I have a 2001 5.4 4X4 supercrew with almost 100,000 miles and i had 2 bolts broken off on the passenger side. they got to the point they were so rusted out it was leaking extreamly bad. I ended up putting on a pair of shorty pacesetters and it has solved the problem!!! I suggest that if anyone's getting close to those miles and bolts on ur manifold do not look good to replace them BEFORE they break off because it took 20 hours for my boyfriend (who is a mechanic) and i to put on both sides. It was cheaper to put headers on and do it ourselves than to have a shop do it because they quoted me almost $600.

 

yes replace then before they get to bad!!! it took so long to get the bolts off that broke off and they had some room left for us to get at the bolts. they were not thinking right when they made these because they used such cheep bolts that you can't even weld anything to them to help extract them. we had to buy a special tool set that was about $45 to get them out.

 

I had three broken studs on the passenger side. All of mine broke off flush with the outside of the manifold, so there was about 1" of stud to grab onto after I pulled the manifolds off. I just used a little heat and a regular stud puller and I had no issues at all. I replaced my stock exhaust with OBX LT's and I replaced the resonators with Maggie High-flow cats, and a Maggie SI/DO cat-back and everything is stainless. One of the best upgrades I have ever done on the truck

I kept a eye out for Ebay deals and doing the work myself I think everything including new O2's cost me around $1400. So I figure for what I have that's not too bad.

 

Ok guys, go ahead and use me abuse me. Sometimes I forget that the NooB always gets the flack at first. It's that way on every board, so go ahead. However; keep in mind that a board, for whatever forum, will slowly die without new members and being an internet hardacre will make people not want to join or stay. I'm a blue bleeding Ford guy so I have a tough skin so go ahead and fire away.

Now back on topic please: Did your nuts rust off and now you're warped?

 

I just wanted to let everyone know what I did to my passenger side exhaust manifold over the weekend. I had the famed ticking myself and have had for some time. I finally decided that I had had enough. I went and bought me some felpro gaskets for the manifold and established a game plan. I squirted some WD-40 on the studs well before I got started and checked all of them to see if any were broken and I got lucky, they were all intact. Jacked up, wheel off, and on jack stand for safety, I got started. I was able to remove all of the nuts/studs and the collector nuts from the wheel well without taking the inner fender out. I took the manifold out through the wheel well and it looked surprisingly good but was a little rusty on the gasket surface. I took a flat file and some sand paper and made it pretty again. What was interesting was that the factory gasket was boogered up some how. The port on the rearmost cyl was not centered correctly. I could tell it was off by about a quarter of an inch and this was what was causing my exhaust leak. After I got everything cleaned up to my satisfaction, I started the reassembly. I put some coppercoat on the gaskets to hold them in place and stuck them to the head. Next, the manifold went on along with the nuts and studs. I did put some antiseize on the nuts/studs for good measure. Now I know that there will be those of you that will fuss at me for the antiseize and probably the coppercoat too, but I do things my way and you do it your way OK. After everything is back together I can hear that I was successful with the repair.

For those of you that say I should have went ahead and put on the headers that I want, I will be happy to take donations from anyone that wants to help me pay for them.

 

wkmincey, how is this repair holding up for you I have the same truck with the same problem. I don't want to spend a lot of money, but I want the ticking to go away! The studs and nuts on mine don't look bad.

Were there any special tools you used or tricks that might help!

 

Just a quick tip concerning replacing rusted off exaust manifold bolts. I bought a 2003 King Ranch/4x4 form Mansfield OH that had a slight exaust tick. After getting a closer look the bolts and manifolds were completely consumed w/ rust. Rather than removing the Motor I decided the remove the Cab and gain access to the heads w/o going through the proccess of disconecting all the possible fail points on the motor due to Rust.

It worked out well and was able to extract the cab (6) bolts (4) from the interior and the obviouse elecritcal and mechanical connections. It saved me time and I was able to put navel jelly on all other parts to reduce additional costs of replacement parts.