I thought SS tips didn't rust?
#16
06-13-2009, 12:38 AM
#17
06-13-2009, 11:52 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: I AM Canadian!
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's also about the quality of the SS in question. T-304, T-403...etc
You can get the bargain tips that'l last one season, or High quality tips, from Mag,Borla,Roush and so on that will stand up to being abused under a truck.
I've had tips last years with my trucks, and use them all year round. Mind you a bit of maintenance is required in the spring.
You can get the bargain tips that'l last one season, or High quality tips, from Mag,Borla,Roush and so on that will stand up to being abused under a truck.
I've had tips last years with my trucks, and use them all year round. Mind you a bit of maintenance is required in the spring.
#18
06-13-2009, 11:19 PM
Anyone ever use "nevr dull"?
It's cotton batting, soaked in what smells like lighter fluid. It works amazingly in removing rust, oxidation and other nasty hard to remove imperfections.
It even restores finishes you wouldn't think of trying manually like moderate pitting. I use it on chrome mostly but has other uses also.
It's cotton batting, soaked in what smells like lighter fluid. It works amazingly in removing rust, oxidation and other nasty hard to remove imperfections.
It even restores finishes you wouldn't think of trying manually like moderate pitting. I use it on chrome mostly but has other uses also.
#19
06-14-2009, 01:35 AM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#20
06-14-2009, 06:51 PM
Not entirely true. Certain grades of stainless, the ones with the right concentration of chromium, nickel and molybdenum added into the base steel alloy are completely rust proof. The chromium/nickel/molybdenum mix creates a microscopic boundary layer that stops corrosion dead in its tracks on a molecular level. The rustproof stainless is known as grade 316 and 316L, the 304 that most exhaust manufactures use is not rust proof just resistant. 304 is also known as 18/8 stainless, meaning that the alloy has 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel content. Better grades of stainless have higer nickel content such as 18/10 (food grade) and 18/12 (medical grade) and the cheaper 409 grade is known as 11/0 and has no nickel content and can be worked as mild steel, can be magnetized and its primary use is automotive exhaust systems.
Last edited by 05RedFX4; 06-14-2009 at 07:18 PM.
#21
06-14-2009, 08:07 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On a related note, How do you polish Black chrome stainless tips? When I first had them installed I polished them a few weeks later and the polish took the "black" right out of the tip. I had it replaced with a new one under warranty and the place said they have never had that happen before. The polish said it was safe for stainless so I was just wondering. I am trading it off for a 09 in a couple weeks once it gets built but I might have them installed again on my 09.
#22
06-15-2009, 10:35 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: I AM Canadian!
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#24
06-16-2009, 10:17 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: I AM Canadian!
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#25
06-17-2009, 06:08 PM
Senior Member
Never dull works good. But you need to go over it with 000 or 0000 afterwards. I did mine 2 days ago.
1.Put Nevr Dull on (don't wipe it off!!)
2. Scrub with 000 or 0000 ( I used 000 first, then 0000 after to clean up)
3. Wipe clean
4. Use Blueman Metal Polish afterwards to leave a nice coat of wax on it so it wont happen again.
It helps to use Blueman periodically.
1.Put Nevr Dull on (don't wipe it off!!)
2. Scrub with 000 or 0000 ( I used 000 first, then 0000 after to clean up)
3. Wipe clean
4. Use Blueman Metal Polish afterwards to leave a nice coat of wax on it so it wont happen again.
It helps to use Blueman periodically.
#26
06-18-2009, 02:19 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that yellow brown color is due to heat when steel is heated it will go through a process called tempering it starts out yellow then goes brown then as more heat is applied it will turn into blues and purples adventually turn back to matte gray. its the steel hardening makes it more brittle and adventually makes it rust
#27
06-18-2009, 09:11 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: I AM Canadian!
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never dull works good. But you need to go over it with 000 or 0000 afterwards. I did mine 2 days ago.
1.Put Nevr Dull on (don't wipe it off!!)
2. Scrub with 000 or 0000 ( I used 000 first, then 0000 after to clean up)
3. Wipe clean
4. Use Blueman Metal Polish afterwards to leave a nice coat of wax on it so it wont happen again.
It helps to use Blueman periodically.
1.Put Nevr Dull on (don't wipe it off!!)
2. Scrub with 000 or 0000 ( I used 000 first, then 0000 after to clean up)
3. Wipe clean
4. Use Blueman Metal Polish afterwards to leave a nice coat of wax on it so it wont happen again.
It helps to use Blueman periodically.
#28
06-19-2009, 11:11 AM
Senior Member
#30
06-23-2009, 09:10 PM
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts