Will OBX LT's + ROR = deafness?
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There's really to much heat down there for Teflon. Yellow/or gas tape might last 5 seconds longer tho. I've tried it a few times, - wrapping in 3 complete circles lol. Yea , not sure what the yield is as far as heat, but it's not enough.
The Permetex is the better bet, but I've had them leak using that as well. - Depends on the leak of course. The only way to seal tight and leaving them removable at the same time is to fab up your flat washer. One that the sensors compression washer sits on top of and that washer also needs to be larger than the bung circumference.
Yea, anymore beer last night and I would have been arguing with myself today
The Permetex is the better bet, but I've had them leak using that as well. - Depends on the leak of course. The only way to seal tight and leaving them removable at the same time is to fab up your flat washer. One that the sensors compression washer sits on top of and that washer also needs to be larger than the bung circumference.
Yea, anymore beer last night and I would have been arguing with myself today
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Yea, I know Huskey caries the good stuff. Usually that 2000 degree crap. You just need to find the correct formulation. It doesn't have to be 2000 degree stuff. It doesn't get that hot @ the collectors or around the sensors. At least 1000 degrees tho.
Not sure if they have a site online, but here's some of what they offer and formulation info -
http://www.allsealsinc.com/antiseize...dsealants.html
Sounds like the 400 line, but that doesn't ring any bells lol. The 400, but high heat 400 maybe. Yea , they have it somewhere, so does other manufacturers.
The answer is Yes.
Not sure if they have a site online, but here's some of what they offer and formulation info -
http://www.allsealsinc.com/antiseize...dsealants.html
Sounds like the 400 line, but that doesn't ring any bells lol. The 400, but high heat 400 maybe. Yea , they have it somewhere, so does other manufacturers.
The answer is Yes.
#190
I'd be reluctant to use a sealant on an O2 sensor because it might become welded in place, or rather just damn hard to remove at a future date. While the anti-seize isn't a sealant, it should be thick enough to stop any exhaust leak between the threads. My experience with headers is that a small leak down steam of the collector isn't going to make any audible noise. Realize you are creating a lot more back pressure by blowing air up the tailpipe than that your system will not generate.
I think the source of all your noise is at the head and the flange mating surface. If those OBX headers are not really flat, that thin shim gasket just won't work. That likely the reason they came with a composite gasket. Trust me, I've blown more than my fair share of header gaskets. Too bad Earl's doesn't make a gasket for the mod motors.
I think the source of all your noise is at the head and the flange mating surface. If those OBX headers are not really flat, that thin shim gasket just won't work. That likely the reason they came with a composite gasket. Trust me, I've blown more than my fair share of header gaskets. Too bad Earl's doesn't make a gasket for the mod motors.
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I'm already prepared to have to take off the inner fender liners again. Hope I don't lose any of the retainer clips for the header bolts, they only send just enough. Patrick has offered to come help so I'm going to have everything ready to go by the time he arrives. Truck in the air, Wheels off, liners out, o2's and plugs done, etc. Well, maybe I'm being too optimistic.