01 5.4 4x4 long tube header options?

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  #31  
Old 01-30-2011, 11:18 PM
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I've never seen proof of larger causing a faceplant in the charts.
 
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:40 PM
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Ok that is good news cuz i'd rather go bigger anyways.. so I just crawled under the truck again, the part of the header that hits the driveline is not the midpipe, its the actual header pipe before it gets to the collector. That doesn't seem right at all to me... ? Jbrew, you have the pace setters on your truck right? Do any of the actual header pipes get that close to the front driveline?
 
  #33  
Old 01-30-2011, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SupercrewLightn
Ok that is good news cuz i'd rather go bigger anyways.. so I just crawled under the truck again, the part of the header that hits the driveline is not the midpipe, its the actual header pipe before it gets to the collector. That doesn't seem right at all to me... ? Jbrew, you have the pace setters on your truck right? Do any of the actual header pipes get that close to the front driveline?
Nope, but someone else had that problem last summer on this site and it was with Pacesetters. I recall measuring mine in the same location and I was about an inch away.

Some of you guys might remember the users name , I can't think of it. But yea, your not the first and only. I thought his was a 2WD though ?

I cleared everything luckily. Another user also had probems with his O2 sensor, drivers side, hitting the front drive shaft

I believe I measured that as well , - I'll try to find the pics I have , - somewhere.
 
  #34  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:01 AM
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I found one them, thread with pics, but I can't post the link.

User = offroadn'98

I'l try to post the thread -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...headers-5.html
 
  #35  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:02 AM
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Hmmm that's crazy.. yeah the driveline has pretty serious rub marks on it and that's even with the pipe being dented in.. it has to at least an inch or two off where it should be.. I wonder why the person who installed them didn't send em back.. ok so I am either thinking getting powdercoated pacesetter or obx stainless.. which do u guys think would last longer? I know the PC's I have now I am not happy with but being powder coated they should last right? Or is it the actual construction of them that make some of you think they are inferior to OBX?
 
  #36  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:13 AM
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That was one, there's another somewhere. It's a thread where someone had a problem with the headers hitting the Motor Mount, drivers side. Search this forum ONLY and you'll find that one with pics as well.

I've also painted mine since the pics. You can get away with two jars of Calyx. I went heavy and used 3.5 jars. That stuff is thick. The headers will still rust from the inside out. OBX is the better deal IMO, -if you end up going with a new set. Going by what I've seen , online and in this forum.

The OBX won't rust inside like the Pacesetters will.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 01-31-2011 at 12:17 AM. Reason: added info
  #37  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
That was one, there's another somewhere. It's a thread where someone had a problem with the headers hitting the Motor Mount, drivers side. Search this forum ONLY and you'll find that one with pics as well.

I've also painted mine since the pics. You can get away with two jars of Calyx. I went heavy and used 3.5 jars. That stuff is thick. The headers will still rust from the inside out. OBX is the better deal IMO, -if you end up going with a new set. Going by what I've seen , online and in this forum.

The OBX won't rust inside like the Pacesetters will.
Yeah that's what I'm starting to lean towards, after reading that thread that u posted it seems that PC just doesn't pay enough attention to detail..
 
  #38  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SupercrewLightn
Hmmm that's crazy.. yeah the driveline has pretty serious rub marks on it and that's even with the pipe being dented in.. it has to at least an inch or two off where it should be.. I wonder why the person who installed them didn't send em back.. ok so I am either thinking getting powdercoated pacesetter or obx stainless.. which do u guys think would last longer? I know the PC's I have now I am not happy with but being powder coated they should last right? Or is it the actual construction of them that make some of you think they are inferior to OBX?
They didn't at that time make LT's for the 4.6.(pacesetter has a set out now) I was gonna make those work no matter what. I didn't send them back because 17hrs later(jacking the engine up/trimming motor mounts etc), after i had beat teh hell out of them to get them on is when i realized i couldn't get my 02 in on the drivers side and thats when i got to looking at the driveshaft yoke wouldn't clear it(when spinning like .5"). At that time i didn't have a choice. Also one of the primaries was at such a sharp angle i couldn't even get the bolt into the hole on teh header flange without beating the primary in just enough. Makes me wonder how good there built.(so yes teh construction of them sucked) But they are cheap and they do do the job. I would just leave the black high temp paint on not worry about it if you go with them tho. You would have a much easier time since teh headers are meant for the 5.4, i was puttin 5.4's on the 4.6 was alot of my problem i believe. If your not on a extremely tight budget i'd prob say the OBX's coundn't be anymore of a pita to put on..

And the scratches on the primaries was from me trying to beat them in just enough to clear the yoke.. Anyway i was driving in some mud 2wd still cause i hadn't taken care of the problem with the front yet and someone had dug some ruts out and i didn't realize until my truck dropped down in the mud. I had to put it in 4wd bc it was like 2am and i was pretty much on my own..(long story) it sounded bad but took care of the problem in the end haha
goodluck with them
 

Last edited by offroadn'98; 01-31-2011 at 12:46 AM.
  #39  
Old 01-31-2011, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by offroadn'98
They didn't at that time make LT's for the 4.6.(pacesetter has a set out now) I was gonna make those work no matter what. I didn't send them back because 17hrs later(jacking the engine up/trimming motor mounts etc), after i had beat teh hell out of them to get them on is when i realized i couldn't get my 02 in on the drivers side and thats when i got to looking at the driveshaft yoke wouldn't clear it(when spinning like .5"). At that time i didn't have a choice. Also one of the primaries was at such a sharp angle i couldn't even get the bolt into the hole on teh header flange without beating the primary in just enough. Makes me wonder how good there built.(so yes teh construction of them sucked) But they are cheap and they do do the job. I would just leave the black high temp paint on not worry about it if you go with them tho. You would have a much easier time since teh headers are meant for the 5.4, i was puttin 5.4's on the 4.6 was alot of my problem i believe. If your not on a extremely tight budget i'd prob say the OBX's coundn't be anymore of a pita to put on..

And the scratches on the primaries was from me trying to beat them in just enough to clear the yoke.. Anyway i was driving in some mud 2wd still cause i hadn't taken care of the problem with the front yet and someone had dug some ruts out and i didn't realize until my truck dropped down in the mud. I had to put it in 4wd bc it was like 2am and i was pretty much on my own..(long story) it sounded bad but took care of the problem in the end haha
goodluck with them
Thanks for the input, I just read through your thread from last year, what a pain in the ****! I think i will go with obx this time around.. My pipe rubs a little farther back then yours, it clears the yoke fine but rubs the shaft.. That sounded terrible! lol But yeah, they are so rusted to crap right now, it is time to upgrade
 
  #40  
Old 01-31-2011, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SupercrewLightn
while i'm at it, i also want to get your guys advice for the rest of the exhaust. Whoever did the exhaust setup on this truck I think was on crack. It has a blower pushin 8 psi into the pacesetter headers y'd down to a single 3 inch pipe into a 3" si/so muffler. So when I put the new headers on it should i run smaller duals-say 2.5", all the way out? Would running dual 3" out kill my low end? It seems to run dual 3" all the way would be too much for the mediocre horsepower i'm pushing right now.. So if it was your truck, what setup would you do from the heads back? Keep in mind I have the actual lightning engine, not the stock 5.4....
for sure those are the same powder cast rods as in everyother two-valve 5.4 motor so you better change 'em out, bump the compression and have the heads ported
 
  #41  
Old 01-31-2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tarajerame
for sure those are the same powder cast rods as in everyother two-valve 5.4 motor so you better change 'em out, bump the compression and have the heads ported
Why would you suggest changing out the rods?
 
  #42  
Old 01-31-2011, 08:07 PM
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Or if you want a true custom set of headers and money isn't really that big of an issue go to http://www.stainlessheaders.com Just saying. Guaranteed not to rub and if it does its on you.
 
  #43  
Old 01-31-2011, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by thefiremon
Or if you want a true custom set of headers and money isn't really that big of an issue go to http://www.stainlessheaders.com Just saying. Guaranteed not to rub and if it does its on you.
I wish money wasn't an issue! i 'd have a brand new raptor sittin in my driveway right now! Lol thanks for the link though!
 
  #44  
Old 02-01-2011, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by thefiremon
Or if you want a true custom set of headers and money isn't really that big of an issue go to http://www.stainlessheaders.com Just saying. Guaranteed not to rub and if it does its on you.
Thanks for posting that link. Those guys are allot of help for the DIY'er. Who ever is running that Tig could of been a surgeon. Steady hands, some perfect feeds IMO.
 
  #45  
Old 02-01-2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by SupercrewLightn
Why would you suggest changing out the rods?
because they aren't forged, and as I posted earlier they are the same poweder cast CRAPPY rods as everyother 2 valve 5.4 truck has

and $1100 (for better rods, new gaskets, bearings, timing chains and all) for piece of mind is cheaper than a new motor down the road...
 


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