Do K&N CAI really work?
#7
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#8
#9
It seems each truck deals with CAI differently as there are multiple pros and cons on the subject on this forum. up here on the cold canadien prairie my 04 5.4 and my old 97 4.0 ranger really like the K&N cai.
#10
Mannn.. How disappointing.
I was thinking, just the other day, -this place is one of the more intelligent sites on the web.
Then someone says something smart about K&N. Guess that's why they're not engineers ehh. Shoot, at least get that math right fellas.
Just because you may now hear induction noises thru the pipe, doesn't mean you bumped the power any. Unless you scarfed a couple bean burrito's just before.
I was thinking, just the other day, -this place is one of the more intelligent sites on the web.
Then someone says something smart about K&N. Guess that's why they're not engineers ehh. Shoot, at least get that math right fellas.
Just because you may now hear induction noises thru the pipe, doesn't mean you bumped the power any. Unless you scarfed a couple bean burrito's just before.
#11
#12
I would just run a better filter. Ford doesn't oil they're filters do they ?
Run a nano fiber dry element, if you want the best for your your ride. These are 100,000 mile filters. Just about maintenance fee. The DO NOT embed foreign matter. Total Contaminants completely fall away from the media once vehicle is switched off.
Oh you can shake them out, or give them a couple shoots of compressed air if your prefer...It won't amount to much, IF anything at all.
BTW- They are cheap in price as well. best filter out there, currently available.
Mine still looks brand new, -installed it back in 08.
Run a nano fiber dry element, if you want the best for your your ride. These are 100,000 mile filters. Just about maintenance fee. The DO NOT embed foreign matter. Total Contaminants completely fall away from the media once vehicle is switched off.
Oh you can shake them out, or give them a couple shoots of compressed air if your prefer...It won't amount to much, IF anything at all.
BTW- They are cheap in price as well. best filter out there, currently available.
Mine still looks brand new, -installed it back in 08.
#13
#14
I would just run a better filter. Ford doesn't oil they're filters do they ?
Run a nano fiber dry element, if you want the best for your your ride. These are 100,000 mile filters. Just about maintenance fee. The DO NOT embed foreign matter. Total Contaminants completely fall away from the media once vehicle is switched off.
Oh you can shake them out, or give them a couple shoots of compressed air if your prefer...It won't amount to much, IF anything at all.
BTW- They are cheap in price as well. best filter out there, currently available.
Mine still looks brand new, -installed it back in 08.
Run a nano fiber dry element, if you want the best for your your ride. These are 100,000 mile filters. Just about maintenance fee. The DO NOT embed foreign matter. Total Contaminants completely fall away from the media once vehicle is switched off.
Oh you can shake them out, or give them a couple shoots of compressed air if your prefer...It won't amount to much, IF anything at all.
BTW- They are cheap in price as well. best filter out there, currently available.
Mine still looks brand new, -installed it back in 08.
I've got the Amsoil one and love it. If you have the cone style filter for the 4.6L, I'll sell you my old K&N so you can see for yourself. I stopped using it because I was finding a bunch of dust in the intake after the filter. I also had to clean it constantly because it is very dusty over here.
#15
I would avoid oil impregnated filters. While they have their purpose in off-road applications, Ford/GM/Dodge all have “watch-out” bulletins where the oil has contaminated intake sensors. - they even have a training video for the techs on this (flatratetech.com) .
If you look at the flow data, WIX HP filters flow 98+% of K&N and have a much smoother flow post filter plus excellent filtering, for a fraction of the price! The OE’s have an excellent air intake system. What many view as an issue (is the plastic intake tube with its noise canceling design) actually increases air pressure. It is the same hydraulic concept used by fire fighters creating water supply where psi is low. By having the air cross the path at a 90 degree angle, the pressure is increased proportionally. Fire fighters use what is called a “4-way valve” or “Blake Valve” at the hydrant where the water is cycled through the fire engine (pump) and sent back into the valve crossing the water flow at a 90 degree angle. In this case it also acts as a sound canceling device! At low speeds, this can reduce the flow a tad (which is what most “feel”), but in terms of peak hp/tq, a good high flow filter is all that is needed. You can use a WIX OEM HP replacement filter in the OEM plastic manifold box and either remove the plastic tube and replace it with a piece of pipe/hose, etc or remove the tube completely and replace the tube by building an air ram type intake into the air box manifold (where the pipe use to attach)- make sure it terminates above the fan shroud to avoid water intake or fan induced pulsations.
Last year Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...r-testing.html. All I can say is this explains in detail the reason for
(Arlen) SPICER wrote,
“Now that I am not doing the tests and my objectivity is not necessary, let me explain my motivation. The reason I started this crusade was that I was seeing people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, Marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say " I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems. The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of ching on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it!
As an example of the "bad math" used by the mfg's- they claim increased HP & mileage"- that is just impossible on a relatively stock engine. The 5.4 V8 for example if close to stock can only suck in a maximum of 480 cfm and a flat panel filter will flow 500 cfm, so even if an aftermarket filter will flow 900 cfm, there is simply no way any CAI on a relatively stock engine can make any more "power" because the engine can still only inhale a maximum of 480 cfm and thats at redline!- no more power, no better mileage!
Last edited by beechkid; 05-12-2012 at 09:56 AM.