Pacesetter LT header install ***NEED HELP***
#1
Pacesetter LT header install ***NEED HELP***
Ok, I've got a 2003 F150 SC FX4 with a 4" lift. I've removed the exhaust manifolds, installed the drivers side header and am working on the passenger side. I've removed the starter and I'm not seeing how it's possible to get the header in there. I've tried every conceivable way and I'm just not seeing it. Has anyone done this without jacking up the engine? No matter what angle I go at it they just won't fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My only other solution is to have it towed to the muffler shop and have them finish it, $$$. Thanks in advance!!![help](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/help.gif)
![help](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/help.gif)
![help](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/help.gif)
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![help](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/help.gif)
#2
Sure. It WILL fit, trust me and you'll get thru this. If your 03 has a stud and nut at the front of the engine holding the AC lines in place, -remove that nut.
Also, you may have to trim that heatshield above it on that model and bore a new hole for your O2's - if you use it at all. Like this -
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180832-7538-10943-213168.jpg)
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180831-7538-10943-213167.jpg)
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180830-7538-10943-213166.jpg)
Another thing, I removed the starter, it was easier to see what was going on.
Do all that, and she'll slide right in place. Like this -
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180833-7538-10943-213172.jpg)
This pic ^^^^ points to the Aluminum AC line. Yea, that doesn't look like it's in the way and I DIDN'T mess with it for along time. Finally, I took that loose and the headers slid in place perfectly.
I believe I removed the trans line filler tube. After removing it's bolt, the tube will pull free from the trans.
Have fun, I did.
Also, you may have to trim that heatshield above it on that model and bore a new hole for your O2's - if you use it at all. Like this -
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180832-7538-10943-213168.jpg)
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180831-7538-10943-213167.jpg)
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180830-7538-10943-213166.jpg)
Another thing, I removed the starter, it was easier to see what was going on.
Do all that, and she'll slide right in place. Like this -
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture180833-7538-10943-213172.jpg)
This pic ^^^^ points to the Aluminum AC line. Yea, that doesn't look like it's in the way and I DIDN'T mess with it for along time. Finally, I took that loose and the headers slid in place perfectly.
I believe I removed the trans line filler tube. After removing it's bolt, the tube will pull free from the trans.
Have fun, I did.
![lol](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
#3
#4
#5
I noticed the twin lines that were there but after working on it for so long and being completely exhausted from removing the cats and Y tube yesterday I was at my wits end. The previous owner of my truck had the entire exhaust welded so I had to cut the pipe just to get that out. The drivers side was a pain but at least it's done. Thanks for the advice, I'll check on that when my body fully recovers. I just want this done!! I'll let you know how it goes!!
#6
I noticed the twin lines that were there but after working on it for so long and being completely exhausted from removing the cats and Y tube yesterday I was at my wits end. The previous owner of my truck had the entire exhaust welded so I had to cut the pipe just to get that out. The drivers side was a pain but at least it's done. Thanks for the advice, I'll check on that when my body fully recovers. I just want this done!! I'll let you know how it goes!!
![lol](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif)
I ended up tacking the Y in place after the headers were installed. Then took everything back down and welded solid. Everything except for the headers. Welded this solid -
![](https://www.f150online.com/forums/members/jbrew-albums-header+work-picture179267-mag-hfs.jpg)
More pics here -
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...ader+work.html
Try not to pull your hair out. If you do, pull from the sides, it grows back quicker.
![beers](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/beers.gif)
Last edited by jbrew; 05-20-2012 at 11:12 PM.
#7
That exhaust looks great! I'm going with true duals all the way, this is my play truck and I do a lot of mud/trail riding. It's a fun hobby but quite expensive.
Going back to your pictures, on the first one with the header, the two lines just to the right, did you have to do anything with those? I see the pic with the A/C line but honestly, I'm not even getting that far. Every time I attempt to put it in I can't clear the exhaust ports. I have an RCD lift kit that has additional struts that connect to the transmission crossmember and the front crossmember that I have to remove as well and it just doesn't seem to have the space needed to get up there. How did you get the tubes past the housing where the starter goes and the frame? I'm sure I'm missing something or not attacking it from the right angle. I'm also assuming that the second picture with the tube with the white marking on it is the transmission fill tube? If so, did you take it completely out or just out of that spot and move it over? I know I might sound ignorant but I certainly don't want to have to tow this thing to the shop and have them finish it out. Thanks again for the advice!
Going back to your pictures, on the first one with the header, the two lines just to the right, did you have to do anything with those? I see the pic with the A/C line but honestly, I'm not even getting that far. Every time I attempt to put it in I can't clear the exhaust ports. I have an RCD lift kit that has additional struts that connect to the transmission crossmember and the front crossmember that I have to remove as well and it just doesn't seem to have the space needed to get up there. How did you get the tubes past the housing where the starter goes and the frame? I'm sure I'm missing something or not attacking it from the right angle. I'm also assuming that the second picture with the tube with the white marking on it is the transmission fill tube? If so, did you take it completely out or just out of that spot and move it over? I know I might sound ignorant but I certainly don't want to have to tow this thing to the shop and have them finish it out. Thanks again for the advice!
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#8
The transmission lines ? In the first pic ? No, I didn't have to do any maneuvering around those, not that I recall. I install mine back in 07, so I may have forgot a few things, I'll never forget how much of a PITA it was lol.
I have an E4OD/4R100 trans and it's 98, but yours should be the same down there and if you have the smaller trans, it SHOULD be a little easier, but no, I didn't have to mess with those trans lines.
The AC line had to be removed at that front engine bolt so I could shove the header up past where that line was and then bring the header back down to slide it in place. Don't remove the line, just take it off that bolt so you can push it out of the way.
I'll read your post again, but that covers that much.
I have an E4OD/4R100 trans and it's 98, but yours should be the same down there and if you have the smaller trans, it SHOULD be a little easier, but no, I didn't have to mess with those trans lines.
The AC line had to be removed at that front engine bolt so I could shove the header up past where that line was and then bring the header back down to slide it in place. Don't remove the line, just take it off that bolt so you can push it out of the way.
I'll read your post again, but that covers that much.
#9
I also had the starter removed. That's fairly simple.
Yea, I wasn't getting far at all because I kept hitting that AC line and couldn't see that I was from down below. I couldn't feel or hear it hitting either.
The second pic with the white mark is the same line in pic 1. You just can't see the second line because they come together up in front of the O2 sensor. But no, didn't do nothing with those as far as I can remember. I do recall thinking that there's no way hell it's going to fit tho lol. Just kept monkeying around with it until it went in.
I hope that helps, - your never short of cus words doing this project.
Yea, I wasn't getting far at all because I kept hitting that AC line and couldn't see that I was from down below. I couldn't feel or hear it hitting either.
The second pic with the white mark is the same line in pic 1. You just can't see the second line because they come together up in front of the O2 sensor. But no, didn't do nothing with those as far as I can remember. I do recall thinking that there's no way hell it's going to fit tho lol. Just kept monkeying around with it until it went in.
I hope that helps, - your never short of cus words doing this project.
#10
#12
Ah this thread brings back painful, supressed memories...all worth it though
. Only issues I had was heat shields and I completely removed them. Will probably need to mark a spot on the heat shield and cut a new hole for O2s like Brew said. Hopefully you used high temp paint on those headers cause that shipping paint is garbage...Re-tap the bolt holes in the block it will make life alot easier, M10x1.5 if iirc. A decent set of gaskets is also a must.
![rocker](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/rocker.gif)
#13
#14
Ok, an update. I finally got the dang thing in!!! ![banana](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/banana.gif)
Sad thing is, I was trying to get it in from underneath and ended up getting it in from the wheel well. I loosened the heat shield, unbolted the transmission fill line and loosened the bracket on the accumulator and it slide right in!! The only problem I have now is that the bottom bolts on both ends won't go all the way in. They both start pretty easy but about half way in it gets so that you can't turn them anymore. I'm going to try again Saturday but I'm not that worried about it, if I can't get them I'll just get the muffler shop to fix them. I've got to put everything back together now and it appears that the top bolt on the starter will be a bear to get back in!!
Another question for you guys, does the header on the passenger side of your trucks touch the frame? That's the only other thing I see that concerns me. Not a lot that I can do about it though. Anyway, thanks for the help!!
![banana](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/banana.gif)
![banana](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/banana.gif)
Another question for you guys, does the header on the passenger side of your trucks touch the frame? That's the only other thing I see that concerns me. Not a lot that I can do about it though. Anyway, thanks for the help!!
#15
It won't hit the frame when it's cranked down properly. Why did you have the trans tube on? Yea, that's gottuh be removed definitely. I mentioned that in the first post.
Well anyway, didn't you get ANY instructions? Must not have
- That's nice. These headers have to be tightened down from the center out and re-torqued at least 3 times after each drive cycle. Always from the center out or you'll ruin the gasket and they'll leak.
I'd complain even more without those instructions.
Well anyway, didn't you get ANY instructions? Must not have
![EEK!](https://www.f150online.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
I'd complain even more without those instructions.