OK, so last couple hopefully easy questions before finally getting my exhaust/LT's ordered

Pipe length...The hi-flow cats will be as close to the LT flange as possible. For the pipes coming off the cats going to the Y, is there any requirement/performance gain that these pipes be of equal length?? I know that would be a routing nightmare for the exhaust guy!

Also, same question for the two pipes coming out of the SI/DO muffer...any reason to try and get these two pipes to equal length?? Or is any performance gain not worth the headache/cost?

And finally...I've read tons of good threads on getting the LT's installed. What I didn't run across was any tips, tricks, parts required, or other stuff involving any emissions stuff (not talking about O2's here) like EGR stuff or anything else I may need to know about.

Thanks a bunch guys.

 

Are you using an aftermarket y-pipe? If so, and that's highly recommended by the way, you'll want it as close to the factory y-pipe as possible.

As far as the tail pipes go, their lengths should work themselves out as long as the muffler is as close as possible to the rear axle.

I didn't actually install my LT's, so I wouldn't be much help there. However, the guy at the shop who did the install told me that the studs were very easy to remove since I soaked them in AeroKroil about 8 times over the 2 weeks prior to the install.

Good luck!

 

I installed my pacesetters... soaking the studs/nuts in aerokroil is a MUST unless you want to break studs off, i soaked mine 2 times a day for a week, and still broke 1 stud.

 

Never heard of aerokroil? Is it just a penetrating lubricant? Wouldn't any WD-40 type work, or is there something special about this one?

 

No soaking here...Ever. Just used an impact. But it won't hurt.

 

AeroKroil is a spray lubricant that my FIL put me onto. He's in the HVAC business, and he always swore that AeroKroil was 10 times better than WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. All I know is that it sure did a number on the studs!

 

aerokroil is just kroil oil but in an aero can we use it at the power plants i work at to break nuts and bolts loose and its some goooood stuff! says it will creep into cracks as small as one millionth of an inch :o

but i dont believe that but it is good stuff

 

So, looks like the only concern is that big tube that connects to the top of the stock exhaust manifold on the left side. I don't have the LT's in hand to look at yet, but what happens to this connection?

 

Your studs in that model are hardened stainless steel inside aluminum heads. What breaks them is when the tran's mount is bad and puts pressure on the back two. You'll see. As rough as they look on the outside, they'll spin right out.

The nuts are steel. They used steel nuts, that's what corrodes.

The real bad ones, the nuts won't spin, the entire stud will spin out. you'll need a 12mm, 13mm and 5mm for the factory nuts and studs.

 

I support the trans before pulling the bolts from the heads. IF your exhaust is tied to the trans mount. A lot of them are.