99 Expedition heater core
#1
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I guess I kinda know what the answer will be being how the guy sold it to me for $1000- but this thing needs a heater core- how bad a job IS it?? I an fairly proficient with my tools, and great at my wiring and stuff. Any links to a how-to with pics? Or do I have to smooze my Ford service guy?
ANY advice is appreciated!
ANY advice is appreciated!
#2
#3
It happened to my truck.....i used sealant and am still hoping it doesn't come back....it NC the dealers want $800 or so. Private shops want about the same. To do it yourself, you have to take out the whole dash.... Look for an old post I made about the problem b/c someone replied to me with a real good link to instructions.That is, if you haven't fixed it yet seeing as this is an old thread.
-Josh
-Josh
#4
2000 Navigator heater core replacement
Started the job of replacing my 2000 Lincoln Navigator this morning. Used the following link from Alan who posted some really great step by step instructions. Seems that most of the guys that tackled this got it done in a day or two. I started at 9:30 and at 4 stopped because I need the heater hose tool. But I did get all the way to the heater core. Here's Alan's link:
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-150...50_Exp_002.doc
I also have an online subscription to an on-line shop manual service: https://www.alldatadiy.com. Between both of these I did pretty good. I really like Alan's instructions as he provides some tips and tricks.
Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know, meanwhile I'll keep you updated with how it goes with the install.
Tom
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-150...50_Exp_002.doc
I also have an online subscription to an on-line shop manual service: https://www.alldatadiy.com. Between both of these I did pretty good. I really like Alan's instructions as he provides some tips and tricks.
Hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know, meanwhile I'll keep you updated with how it goes with the install.
Tom
#5
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The bad news is you cannot just replace the blendair door. The entire box must be replace according to the Ford dealership. I would tell you this; as I just went through this after pulling the entire dash out to get to the door. The heat ducting in the dash panel and defrost area all come from one big box under the dash. This box contains the AC coil, the heater core, blend air door/motor, the defrost door/motor and the panel/floor door.
The blend air door is lined with foam so it cannot be heard when it opens and closes. If the door is working you will feel and hear a slight change in air floor when changing from hot to cool air. This is because when you change from hot air to cool air the blend air door starts to close the heater core off and let more air from outside in. If the AC works you can also turn on the AC (not ac max) with the temp dial all the way to cold and then turn the temp up all the way. If if gets gets warmer (not warm just warmer than it was) then the blend air door is not the issue.
Here is what I found. The coolant system had never been flushed or back flushed. The temperature guage for the engine does not get hot. I flushed out the system with an inexpensive (6.00) flush kit from the parts store. It was unbelievable how must junk came out. The next trick was to isolate the front heater core from ther rear one and then flush just that one out by clamping off the core hose. Once I did this the air was hot. If it starts out hot and then goes cold or changes at an idol versus on the highway then the core will have to replaced because it did not take the flush 100%.
The final outcome was to replace the front heater core. If the garage does it it is around $1,000. If you do it yourself it is around a $100. and 10 hours labor. The entire dash and I mean the entire dash has to come out in order to access the cover for the heater core. You will also see the blend air door directly in front of it. Be careful when removing the heater core hoses. They are a lock clip that you have to pull from inside the hood. To do this without breaking the lock clips you will need to pull the battery and the wiring in front of the firewall. This will let you get the hoses off without breaking the clips. There is an O ring inside that you will need to replace. I've done this job twice and there is no easy way if you cannot verify the door is opening or not.
The blend air door is lined with foam so it cannot be heard when it opens and closes. If the door is working you will feel and hear a slight change in air floor when changing from hot to cool air. This is because when you change from hot air to cool air the blend air door starts to close the heater core off and let more air from outside in. If the AC works you can also turn on the AC (not ac max) with the temp dial all the way to cold and then turn the temp up all the way. If if gets gets warmer (not warm just warmer than it was) then the blend air door is not the issue.
Here is what I found. The coolant system had never been flushed or back flushed. The temperature guage for the engine does not get hot. I flushed out the system with an inexpensive (6.00) flush kit from the parts store. It was unbelievable how must junk came out. The next trick was to isolate the front heater core from ther rear one and then flush just that one out by clamping off the core hose. Once I did this the air was hot. If it starts out hot and then goes cold or changes at an idol versus on the highway then the core will have to replaced because it did not take the flush 100%.
The final outcome was to replace the front heater core. If the garage does it it is around $1,000. If you do it yourself it is around a $100. and 10 hours labor. The entire dash and I mean the entire dash has to come out in order to access the cover for the heater core. You will also see the blend air door directly in front of it. Be careful when removing the heater core hoses. They are a lock clip that you have to pull from inside the hood. To do this without breaking the lock clips you will need to pull the battery and the wiring in front of the firewall. This will let you get the hoses off without breaking the clips. There is an O ring inside that you will need to replace. I've done this job twice and there is no easy way if you cannot verify the door is opening or not.
Last edited by bigdogszuki8564; 10-14-2009 at 03:00 AM.