I have a '98 Expy 4x4 with the 5.4 and remote oil filter, and the oil cooler mounted on the block (sothings are TIGHT in that area!). I am trying to add a mechanical oil gauge to the system and was going to 'T' into the factory sensor position. After taking the sensor out, it looks like if I add the T inline with the sensor, the sensor or wire lead will probably hit the front differential. I may be able to put the switch on the side port of the T, but room just seems to be at a premium. Are there any other oil galleys or passages on the 5.4 I can tap into with my gauge? I would prefer to monitor from 2 separate locations anyway. Location location location . . .
Thanks for any feedback ! ! !

 

Well, as there has been no response, I thought I would chime in.
I have no idea about additional taps.
If you do find out, please post back.
And as always, take pics when you do the mods.

 

I actually got everything to work Sunday night. I am now waiting on my pillar pod from Jegs to mount the gauge into. The gauge itself kinda looks ghetto now (sitting in the corner of the dash, on a red shop towel), but the pod is scheduled for delivery Wednesday, so no biggie there.
I wound up T'ing into the original sensor's position. I put the factory sensor into the side port of the T, which is really cool because now I can see it and remove it from the wheel well if need be with a LONG extension. I ran 1/8" copper tubing from the bottom of the T up to the area inboard of the master cylinder. I also put vaccuum tubing over the copper to help out with any spots that may rub and create a problem. The copper runs up to the top of the frame rail near the brake lines. I attached it at that point, and then again temporarily to the accelerator cable just for stability. Where it is 'zip tied' to the accelerator cable I also went through a compression splice and transitioned to the plastic tubing to take it into the cab. Overall, the routing looks good. I am going to add a flexible section into the copper soon to handle vibrations between the engine and the frame. Right now, between the T and the attaching point on the frame rail there is about 25+ inches of copper that seems to give easily - should handle the vibrations for now until I can find the right flex line to insert.
I will post pics tomorrow to show what all this jiberish is about!



Thanks,

Greg Blakeney

 

Curious...
Why did you go mechanical, instead of electronic?
Hope it doesn't leak in the cab!

 

I already had the gauge from a previous Ford I was building up almost 9 years ago. Never installed before, and after I saw a post of the pillar mounted gauges, I said 'That's it, I'm putting it in!' I was also looking for a reason to twist some wrenches too

 

I was fairly confident in the copper, since it went ~18" or so and could move easily during vibrations - but we are going on a trail ride Saturday and I wanted to be 100% confident. I ran down to the local speed shop and picked up 6' of #4 braided hose and connectors from XRP (Extreme Racing Plumbing). I added a 45 degree brass fitting where the copper tubing connected, so that the new hose could exit parrallel to the oil pan gasket surface. I took care in incorporating a service loop that would get the line high above the front drive shaft, and then back down to get away from the exhaust manifold.I doubled up industrial zip ties for now to hold everything in place until I can get more hardware and rubber insulated hose loops to permanently fasten the hose in 4 locations. Works well, and the link is about as flexible as it can be.