Does anyone have experience with lowering the rear of a F250 SD? I have a 1999 F250 4WD that I would like to level by dropping the rear. I recently just happen to notice a post in another forum that indicated there was a service bulletin addressing lowering the rear of the 1999 SDs and the post indicated this was covered under warranty (FTE 97up-SD250 rear height). Does anyone have information about this? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

If yours has the factory 4 inch blocks under the leaf springs you can get the 2 inch factory blocks from ford, you will also need the bolt kit. Not sure the part numbers but they are factory options. Just measure the cast iron blocks under the leaf springs to see which one you have. If you have the 2 inch blocks allready .... ummm not sure there... good luck, and if you are interested in selling the 4 inch blocks give me a holler mine has the 2 inchers and I want another 2 inches of air under my F-250.

 

I have the 4" blocks now. So I will ask Ford dealership for a 2" block kit?. I recently replaced the shocks based on the truck being a F250 4WD. I was not asked about the rear block height so I assume my (shocks) work with 2" and 4" blocks? I have seen 4WD trucks that look like mine with the rear elevated and others that are lower in the rear and more leveled out. This is more what I want. Is changing blocks as simple as supporting the body, removing the u-bolts and 4" blocks, positioning the 2" blocks, lowering the body and installing the new u-bolts?

Do you know anyone with a tailgate for sale (for a '99 F250 SD)?

 

It is as simple as swapping the blocks and u-bolts... make sure you retorque them after about 1000-2000 miles they tend to stretch. Your factory shocks will be ok i'm pretty sure all you need is the blocks and bolts from ford. .......... jack the truck up and support the frame with jackstands with it high enough to let the pressure off the suspension without the wheels touching the ground, then support the chunck with a floor jack and undo the ubolts after you get them off let the jack down just enought to get the 4 inchers out then put in the 2 inchers and jack it up it untill the new blocks contacts the springs and reinstall the u bolts, it really helps if you have a buddy to help balance the rear end and make sure you dont let it down too far and tear a brake line. Make sure everything lines back up the way the stock ones did. the blocks are angled to make sure the drive line stays straight also.... so that means there is a left and a right block also keep an eye on that or your pinion angles will be a mile off. good luck

 

Thanks jlayne for the information. As long as I install the left and right blocks correctly then alignment should not be a problem?

I am now questioning if I have seen a 4WD with 2" blocks? I thought I had but now am not sure. I have seen 4WD F250s that seem to be more level than mine. Thanks again.

 

Correct as long as you put the left on the left and the right on the right the pinion angle should be fine... I have a f-250 4x4 with the two inch blocks and mine sets almost dead level check out my pics in my signature for pics of my truck

 

I have a 99 F250 SD 4X4 which had 4 inch blocks. I removed the blocks and didn,t put any in. The rusults are - Back fender 10 inches above tire Front fender 8 inches above tire. I think it looks much much better. and no adverse ride quality problems. I had a local company meke me 4 U-bolts at a price of 36 dollars. That was my total cost for the project. Did it in my driveway with a floor jack and stand, one side at a time.

 

Thanks all for the information. I removed the 4" blocks and installed 2". Just lowering the rear 2" has made a difference to me. I do find it interesting about removing all blocks. Thanks.

 

I didn't think you could remove the blocks. My truck has the bump stops made on the side of the block. Removing the blocks would cause it to not have bump stops (bad idea) but there could be different suspension packages depending on the weight rating of your truck. So thats not to say it couldn't be done, just not on my truck.

 

Yes it had built in bump stops, but the amount of travel it would have to do to engage them is ridiculously far on the super duty and will never be a concern for me. I only pull a car trailer. Besides, I still have them and can reinstall them if I ever want to put 6 or 8 thousand pounds on the truck bed! (lol)
Don P.

 

Yeah that is true it would take a heck of allot of weight to hit the stops but if you was pulling your trailer and hit a bump or crossed a ditch that easily cause it to bump it. If you max out your suspension that could cause the drive shaft to run out of room and break the tail off the transfer case or take out the carrier bearing for the 2 piece drive shaft.... but if your careful you might get by with it. I worry too much I guess, but if it ever bumps it hard enough that is going to get VERY expensive. I have seen the transfer case problem before on a full-size bronco, the suspension compressed and there wasn't enough room for everything and it broke the back of the transfer case. Well that’s all I'm going to ramble for today... later dudes

 

Dude just switch the blocks from under that axle to over the axle and use the same u bolts.