We got my dad some gauages for christmas, and I was wondering if we could get some advice on where to place the sensors for the different gauges.

We got him an EGT, boost, and trans temp gauge (stuart warner gauges from rpmoutlet).

Some pics would also be very helpful.

Thanks alot.

Truck is an '02 F250 7.3L

 

Place the trans temp sensor in the inspection port on the DS of the trans by the shifter linkage. Its got a small bolt in the hole and is relatively easy to spot.

Splice a T fitting into the MAP pressure line for the boost guage. Make sure that you don't leave the line kinked after the install. Pretty self explanitory, just get the parts you need to make the T at Napa if you don't have them.

The pyrometer make sure you place it preturbo as post turbo is all but useless in what it tells you. When you drill the hole place it either in the DS exhaust manifold (best place) or in the up pipe. Drill the hole at the lowest part of the manifold where it turns to meet the up pipe. Use a series of 3-4 bits stepping up in size each time. When you drill use a slow speed and fill the bit with grease to catch any of the fillings you can get. Now here is where it differs a bit depending on what kind of probe you have (clamp or drill/tap). The drill and tap is best as it doesn't loosen over time like the clamp style can. You would at this time tap the hole like you drilled (coat the tap in grease). With the clamp you can skip this step. Before you insert the probe make sure you use a small magnet to try and pick up any shavings that did get past the grease. Then simply install the probe and hook up the wires and you're done. The pyro is by far the hardest, but it tells you the most info about how the engine is running.

 

Thanks powerstroke, I think that will help alot.

I knew the EGT wouldn't be easy, that was the one I was the most worried about.

We'll see what happens.

 

Actually after thinking about it forget the way I said to do the boost guage. If you look on the y pipe off the turbo you'll see on the intake side of the intercooler line what looks like a threaded plug with a wire on it. This is whats called the Air Intake Heater (AIH). All it does is at certain temps it tries to heat the intake air to warm the truck up faster. In reality it doesn't really work as well as they hoped it would. All it really does is block 20% of your airflow. Simply disconnect it and put an insert in there with a threaded center and put your boost sensor in there. That lets you avoid splicing the MAP line and you'll still get accurate boost readings as you're reading on the compressed side of the turbo. Its a much better install than I previously mentioned and you get rid of the blockage in the intake at the same time.

 

I'll try to remember that one. Does that come off the passenger side of the driver side of the split?

Im still not sure if the EGT we have is clamp style or drill-and-tap...it comes with a clamp, but it also has instructions for drill and tap and it has a thread on it...so Im thinking you could do either?

Here are the instructions:
http://www.sw-performance.com/PDF/instal/ETGInstal.pdf (we got the same thing on a piece of paper in the box)
And here's the kit:

Closeup of the probe:


Thanks

After looking at it closer, it looks like the probe for the drill and tap style is shaped differently than the clamp style (the kind we seem to have)

 

That one is both which is nice. If you want to use the clamp method use the spacers in the other bag I see sitting there and then have the clamp put on. I myself would use the tap as the clamp is known to eventually loosen up with heat. If you want to tap it uses a 1/8" NPT tap.

The AIH plug is on the passenger side of the y pipe. It faces forward towards the front of the truck.

 

The only problem I see with using it as a drill and tap is that the probe is pre-bent at a 90 deg angle, which might make it hard to install.

I'll look tomorrow and see if I can find that AIH plug.

 

The boost line "usually" uses the MAP sensor line, just T into it. However, on the 6.0 the MAP line has some pulsing that on "some" gauges will make them flutter. I have Isspro and mine does it. Some have instead, tee'd into the IC elbow going into the manifold. Its right on front center on top of the motor. Mine is in the MAP line but I'll be either changing it, or experimenting wiht ideas on how to kill the pulsing that causes the gauge to flutter. BTW, reading is fine, it's just noisey under hard boost.

As for pyro, I did mine in the upipe but many do it in the manifold. I used thre clamp on style and it worked perfectly. Look at www.dieselmanor.com on the instal tips page for a lot of pictures etc. including pics of mine using the clamp style in the uppipe. I get a lot of crap over on TDS because everyone says the 6.0 is impossible to do the up-pipe, but I proved them wrong.

Another tip for the pyro is depending on where the gauges will go (I have under cubby) you may be able to run the pyro lead through the floor where the shifter cables run and not have to use an extension. Check out my gallery on TDS for some more pics of the install.

Tran sender is just what was said. Easy find, unscrew plug, screw in sender.

 

If you're putting the pyro in the manifold you actually want the 90* bend. It would actually be harder routing it if it was straight. When you mount it lay under the truck and look up at the drivers side manifold. You'll see an open spot at the rear of the manifold. Thats where you want to drill. I then ran mine up along the firewall by the master cylinder and then through the hole in the firewall for the clutch linkages (mines an auto so I have a hole).

 

Ok. I havent actually had a chance to crawl under it and see how things look from down there. We dry fitted the gauge pod rpmoutlet sent us and it appears it is the wrong model because it just doesnt come close to fitting.
But hopefully while we get that straightened out we can get the hard parts done and get all the wires run.
FamilyRide: thanks for the tips. This truck is a 7.3L so I think the boost lines are a little different? But in any case I have seen the pictures on dieselmanor (just found that earlier today actually) and they were a great help.

 

DOH, I didn't notice the truck info in your post.

 

Is this the AIH? (on the very right side of the pic)


I think my dad would rather just do the "T" though. How much of it do I take out if we use the AIH method? What do I do with it once it's removed?

Can someone tell me what size T fitting we need to buy if we end up going that route? The kit did not come with one...From what I saw of the MAP line, it's 1/4", but is that ID or OD?

You guys have helped a ton so far.
I had to send the gauge pod back today, I think they sent the wrong kind. It fits OK on my '97 F150, but doesnt come anywhere close to fitting the F250...sent it back and he said he has another one he is going to try sending us.

 

Yes that is the AIH on the far right. I would simply remove it and replace it with a plug with a tapped center. If not just replace the whole thing with a plug or cut off the AIH flush with the inside of the pipe. I'll try to find the thread size/pitch for the plug. I THINK the MAP line is 1/4" ID but I don't recall for sure. It looks like that truck already has intercooler (at least) boot kit installed on it. There is no oil buildup on the intercooler pipes which is good. You might want to think about rerouting the CCV (crank case vent) to prevent oil vapors from going through the intake/turbo/intercooler. It also looks like its already got a 4" DP?

 

The truck is completely stock except for a lid on the bed.

There is a little bit of oil where that split is. That pic is old so it's got a little more on there now.

 

You're sure that it doesn't have a boot kit on it possibly from a previous owner? That looks very similar to the intercooler boots sold by dieselsite.com. There is an updated one from Ford, but typically it does not look like that.


Anyways, if you need the plug for the boost guage/AIH delete go here