I know this is back to back threads, but for others who use the search function, this is a great question and is partly the main reason I'm getting an F250.

I am looking for speed as my #1 concern over these two beasts, stock for stock, pound for pound, which is better. I would like to run low 13's in the F250 7.3L, is this possible? What other than a chip would I need to make this possible, and which chip is best (just give me your short opinion please). I would be towing a Jeep with oversized tires (pretty heavy altogether, wouldn't have any idea on the weight), and a quad or couple dirtbikes in the bed, that is the main reason I may go with an F250, but I don't want to get smoked by a Dodge Hemi, Titan (ESPECIALLY a Titan)...etc. I know a lot about the F150 compared to the F250, so you don't have to explain the differences between such a heavy truck and a titan or F150 (as in weight). I just want to have a very quick diesel truck when not towing, and have a toy hauler when needed. I am finding F250's for 15-18k and cheaper, so I will have a lot of money left to lift and mod (don't factor in my lift and tires into your opinion though please, I can do that myself), I just want to know if I can get this diesel SCREAMIN and for how much $ (roughly). I am going for a 2000-2002 F250 7.3L 4x4 Crew Cab. Lastly, what does it cost for maintenance (those hefty oil changes) and how many miles is a diesel expected to last (very important questions).

Thanks for your time, whichever truck I get I promise to USE it and take pics for all of you

 

If you're planning on doing this kind of buildup you can throw out the 01 and 02 model year trucks. You can do this buildup with them, but its gonna get alot more expensive. The reason is they use PMRs (powdered metal rods) that can't stand up to much more than 350-400 hp. The older trucks used forged rods that are holding up to 500+hp. If you're really serious about getting a 7.3L truck into the 13sec bracket its gonna be expensive. You're gonna need a new intake which can be built yourself for less than $100. You'll also need a good 4" turbo back exhaust. Past that you'll need a good chip which I'd suggest DP Tuner. Jody has some of the best programs on the market right now. I don't know how far he can go with the stock injectors, but I'm hopinng for 140-160 on mine. Beyond a chip you'll need a turbo that will let you spool past 25psi, so a BB turbo is gonna have to be installed. That will get you close to the 13 sec bracket, possibly into the high 13s. If you want to go faster yet then you're talking injectors and a dual high pressure oil pump. A fuel system and head studs would be helpful and studs would be required if you run injectors. Then factor in the transmission needs to be built to hold the hp. If its an auto and in good condition a good torque converter and valve body will hold ok, but if you can swing it a fully built one is best.

Intake: $100
Exhaust: $400
Chip: $500
Turbo: $2000
Fuel System: $500-1000
Injectors: $2000-4000+
Head studs: $600 (and the engine needs to be pulled to install them)
Torque Converter: $1200-1500
Valve Body: $225
Full Transmission (BTS, Monsterbox, etc): $3500-5000

Total dollar amount to make it into the 13sec club is gonna be $5000-10000. Nobody ever said a PSD was cheap, but you're trying to take an 8000lb barn door down the track in 13sec. Its gonna take 450+ rwhp to do it.

 

I'd imagine the chip is probably the most significant increase in hp, so that would be my first mod. I wouldn't mind spending 5k, I'm already going to spend 5k+ at least on the lift and tires (which is a whole 'nother story). So the '01-'02 models are scrapped (crap), what about the '00 & '03?

I was readin this thread and had me wondering what red fuel is and what it does, also why it is illegal. I live in CA so I would imagine we are very strict on this, but I have never heard of it nor have I heard of someone getting caught for using it, so it does appeal to me, unless risk of getting caught is significant. (do they take your truck away for good or do you have to pay a fine to get it back). I won't be able to afford the lift and power mods if I get any newer than an '03 and even then it would be tight. I have a lot of money to spend but I decided on only spending about $27k+/- total on a 2004 F150 5.4 Lariat Screw or a Diesel F250 7.3L (will be lifting both). The F250 is easy to find around here, as opposed to the F150, I can't find EXACTLY what I want and I just won't spend 22k on a truck that is not exactly what I want, so unless I find that before I find the perfect F250, I'm getting the F250. Lets say I just wanted the truck to be quick, is the 01-02 capable? I have a 2002 F150 Supercab 4x2 5.4L and it's pretty quick mind you, but I want quicker. I 0-60 in about 7-8 seconds, pretty ****ty but it feels pretty quick. My buddy has a 2005 Chevy 1500 5.3L Vortec, lowered, I have videos of him burning out and crap as well as me and him racing, in his truck you can feel it PULL all the way through gears unlike mine, but we're pretty close when racing, I have to smoke his truck. I'd imagine a 7.3L will make me happy (don't mind the lift right now), I sure hope so at least, I want there to be a big difference in speed, not just towing. I also am hoping for a significant (5 mpg at least) increase in gas milage which will compensate for the lift and tires basically.

Btw, you never mentioned how long the engines last and how much it costs each oil change and how often you have to get one, thanks bud.

 

The PMRs started with early 01 model year production and ran through the end of the 7.3L production (mid 03). An engine with a build date of early august 00 and older will most likely have forged rods, any newer and you'll have PMRs. The PMRs are very finicky on power mods and can fail simply from a badly written chip sending cylinder pressures too high. Also anything like propane, NOS, or water/meth injection and it'll be a ticking time bomb. New rods are about $500, but the engine will have to be pulled and torn down to replace. I also forgot to mention that the first thing, before you buy ANYTHING on that truck should be gauges (pyro, boost, and trans temp). That'll run $300 or so, but should be done at first before a chip or anything goes in.


As for red dyed fuel that signifies that no road taxes have been applied to it. It is used for offroad use only, as in ag and construction equipment. If you run it in your truck it will stain the tank and will color the next 3-4 tanks so if you get dipped they'll know you've run it. Since its untaxed if you are caught its considered tax evasion and thus a federal offense. The IRS can come in on this and get real nasty. You will have your truck impounded and can expect a $10k+ fine plus may end up going through quite a bit more hell. Out in cali there is a very high risk of getting dipped. Bottom line, if you don't feel like paying all that money, just buy the taxed fuel like the rest of us

Don't plan on big mpg increases from these mods. You might see a couple, but it won't make up for your wheels and tires. If you're concerned about mileage don't lift it, bottom line.

If you take care of the truck and are conservative with your mods and actually know what the heck you're doing you can make the truck last a couple hundred thousand. If you're doing dumb crap with it the life will shorten drastically. As for oil changes it depends what you're doing with the truck and the type of enviroment you're in. It'll take 14-15qts of oil each time (about $50 for me to do a change myself) and it should be done about every 5k.

 

How about 11.42 at 118 in an F350?

http://www.muchosucko.com/video-fordf350race.html

This gives me chills everytime I watch it!

 

No, a set of gauges should be your first mod. Most important to keep the tranny temps under 200, or you'll have a useless truck real quick.

Not taxed fuel

I believe PA is a several thousand dollar fine, plus the IRS would become real picky on your taxes.

With solid maintence, the diesel will long outlast the truck. An oil change will cost ya as there are 14 or so quarts stock in a 7.3, plus I added a bypass filter, so I need a little more. Normal oil change intervals just like a gasser, but I end up doin it by season as I really don't drive mine other than towing or for fun. Only just rolled 27K miles before leaving to come down here to Widener.

Adrianspeeder

 

You do realize that truck has a twin turbo 5.9 Cummins?

 

A very EXPENSIVE twined Cummins. His engine cost more than a new truck


Also he's alot faster than that now, latest report is 10sec bracket. That video is pushing 2 years old.