I have a 05 6.0 in a King Ranch crew cab 4x4. Bully Dog tri Dog chip
with outlook monitor in the cab. Cold air and a magnaflow exhaust.
My pyro is pre turbo. with no load @ 80mph my egt's are like 1100 to 1200
If have my foot in it sometime they go to 1550. Before everyone jumps in
I know that is way to high I was needed help finding out why and how to fix
before I screw something up. What should they be at. I have heard that they should no go above 1250. Thanks for the help.

 

NO MORE THEN 1200 DEG. F. IS WERE IT SHOULD BE. IN MY OPINION I WOULD GET RID OF YOUR BULLY DOG BEFOR YOU PISTONS MELT FROM TO HIGH OF A EGT!!! I PERSONALY DONT RECOMEND CHIPS OR PROGRAMS FOR YOUR 6.0L THEY DO JUST FINE STOCK BUT I KNOW EVERY ONE WANTS MORE POWER!!! I LIKE POWER TOO LOL! SO IF YOU REALLY WANT TO KEEP IT CHIP I WOULD GO WITH A BANKS SYS BUT GET THE ONE THAT MONITORS YOUR EGT AND ADJUSTS FOR FUEL AND TIMEING AT HIGHER EGT. THIS WILL HELP YOU ENGINE LIFE A LITE MORE BUT FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN THE 6.0L DOSENT LIKE TO BEE PUSHED TOO MUCH PASED STOCK! THERE NOT BUILT LIKE THE 7.3L!

~POWER STROKE DIESEL TECH.

 

I agree the only thing is if I pull all of the tuning oput of it. I mean take it back to stock but leave the outlook monitor in it my egt's stay the same.

 

1500* is extremely high for just cruising. I have an XCal2 that was programmed by SCT and the truck is an 05 CC FX4. Cruising at 75-80 on the performance tune, my EGTs hovered around 600-700* (Edit: 800 deg). If I got on it then they would shoot up pretty quickly but I would back out of it as soon as they reached 1200.

For the winter I put the street tune in. Now my EGTs hover around 450-500 (Edit: 650 deg) and take a long time to get to 1200 but a noticeable loss in performance with less smoke and noise.

 

Thats what I do not understand. If I take all of the tuneing out @ idle my
egt's stay 2 550 to 600. Never below that. If they mounted the pyro wrong in the manifold would it read high.

 

Where is the pyro mounted? Mine is mounted in the exhaust manifold about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the head.

 

Not again

I agree that he needs to ditch the Bully Dog, but an SCT from Innovative Diesel would be the alternative. The 6.0L can be pushed beyond what they have stock without problems. You just can't be a dumbass when doing it. Also in no WAY is 1200* preturbo, even sustained going to melt pistons. To melt holes in them you're talking a sustained burn at 1600* plus. Heck look at the truck pullers or drag racers seeing 2000* temps, but in short bursts, and yes there are 6.0L pullers. It takes 1600* to melt a piston head and that heat needs to be held on it to bring all the metal up to temp to make it melt. Basically think of when you're using a torch, how long you have to hold it on the metal before it starts to melt and deform. I prefer the 7.3L, but the 6.0L has a better aftermarket rap than you make it out to be.

As for the Banks stuff, don't waste your time on it. You pay double (or more) for just a name. There are other aftermarket systems out there that do the same thing just as safely, and usually with more power, for way less than Banks. You can build your own system as the Banks power pack for $1500 or less compared to the $3000 that Banks wants.

 

You have good point on your point of view! But most people use there trucks on a every day basis. So woulednt you rather stay below radar to prolong the life of your diesel engine? Yeah You can run a higher EGT but like you said. But for how long? If you drag it for just a few min at a time you will be fine. But most people that have broken motors from what I have seen run on avrage 1500deg. or higher all day! Stop light to stop light with no cool down time or 80+ MPH down the Freeway. So what im trying to say is if you want the most of your truck keep it down thats all im saying. Its just my point of view. Nowone wants to pay $12,000 for just a long Block! Why a long block you ask? why not just re-use the heads? You cant there warped because the engine got to hot from the EGT heating up the EGR cooler then heating up the engine coolent that runs throgh it and causing the boilover all the time. Also the heads are not re-surfaceable. You can try but you wont have much life it that motor when your new piston slaps that valve shut. There is very litle room on the 6.0L Piston to head clearance. As soon as those RPM'S get way up your engine will give up. Try puting a head gasket from a 650/750 6.0L on a 250-550 6.0L and you will see just that. Its just thousands of an inch. Diff.(thiner) The 650/750 are governd at a much lower RPM. Thats why I woulded recomend push it pass that temp.(1200deg.) on the 6.0L If its your every day truck.
Oh by the way what I should say is piston rings first, then cyl. walls, then piston. Not melted pistons you got me on that part. The piston is usualy the last to go. And If a 6.0L injector gets stuck (the internal intensafire piston)open or closed it wont over fuel a cyl. it just wont fire fuel into the cyl. The fuel pump on the frame only puts out on avj. 55 psi and thats no were near close to pushing fuel pass the pintal on the tip of the injector. If you do have a over fuel concern in a cyl. its most likey a bad o-ring on the fuel injector flowing down to the tip of the injector cup pass the copper sealing washer and into the cly. If it were really bad your engine would be hydro loc in the morning. I think you owe me some money you said you would put your money on it? lol
Also as far as I know, (but dont quote me because Im not up to the lates on chips and programs) Banks is the only sys that monitors you EGT temp. If you Know of any others that do? let me know!!! Banks Is very pricy!!!!!

Note* On prior Post I had said "sys that monitors EBP" that was a type-o. I ment EGT I corected it allready. sorry

Power Stroke Diesel Tech.

 

While I agree that 1250* is the redline for preturbo EGTs what I was getting at in your first post is you made it sound like a death sentence for the motor if it ever went above that for even a short time. To keep engine life at max you are right, it needs to be below 1200*, but the occasional trip above that is ok. I would not surpass 1600* if at all possible. The only time mine sees that kind of temp is when I hook a 40k sled on the back of it. I also don't disagree with you that when you completely melt down and engine that the damage is extensive. Though I wonder about your customer's intelligence level when they're running at a sustained 1500*. As for the injectors the 6.0L is very similar to that in a 7.3L and they can most definetly stick open and dump extra fuel in the cylinder even with good orings. One of the service trucks I had this year (03 F550) has had multiple trips to the dealership for bad injectors. The last time was for just this specific problem. This in turn fowls up the EGR and alot of other things. Ford didn't do so well on their venture into making diesel injectors. They should have just stuck with Alliant the whole time, luckily they did go back.

As for the chip I assume you're talking about the Banks 6 Gun module. That monitors EGT and will derate the motor some if EGTs get too hot. The Edge Juice module (which I used to run) would do the same thing. Heres the catch though. ON the 6.0L both of these, though more the Edge because most people have figured out how much Banks sucks, has made a reputation for wiping out transmissions. I would suggest not going with either of these as they are ok at best, but thats all the more I can say about them. Install a set of guages in any truck, no matter if its stock or not. A preturbo pyro, boost, and trans temp (if auto) is a requirement. From there start choosing a GOOD chip, not just some cheap one from some dip**** who thought they might try to write diesel programming. The 7.3L is sensetive to cylinder pressures like the 6.0L. The 00 and older trucks put up with a little more due to the use of forged rods. The 01-03 used PM rods which would leave the block when you reached 400rwhp or if you had a poorly written chip with too much advanced timing (higher cylinder pressures). For example on a 7.3L the old TS chips, especially with Fuel 7, were notorious for wiping out motors. DP-Tuner programs like I run now are tested and do not run high cylinder pressures since Jody knows what he's doing with diesel tuning. There are similar situations in the 6.0L. Diablo being the first bad one to come to mind. The SCT tunes are the equivalent of the DP-Tuner 7.3L tunes.

 

I won't get into the pissing match about performance enhancer or not, or race or not, or stock or not, everyone has a right to their opinion and use of THEIR truck.

However, based on what you're saying, you need to yank that BD qu8ick, and figure out if you have a gauge problem or if it's actually running that hot. Whether 1200 is too hot or not, you shouldn't be hitting 1200 unless it's tuned and you're on it hard. I've never seen 1200 in mine.

At 80 MPH cruising, flat, I'd guess 800-900 maybe. I don't cruise at 80 but 700-800 at 70 or so as a max is in the ball park. It'll bounce up and down as I hit grades and declines etc.

If the thermocouple was installed wrong, not in the center of the exhaust stream, I suppose that could be it too. If the gauge calibrates at start up, check that. What does it idle at? 300-400 or less would be right once it settles. Whatever it is, you need to find out. That's too hot for it to be running at normal driving. If it's accurate, I'd want to know what else it's doing. The actuall temps may not hurt it (well, 1500 and I'd freak), but it doens't need to be, and shouldn't be that hot.

 

Yeah sorry I could of worded it diferntly now that I think of it! lol But thanks for the info on the mod stuff! Yeah I also dont care much for those programs stuff! Guages and some schooling are the way to go! But Most people I run into dont want to think they just want power and set it and forget it! lmao
Yeah I also ran into injector problems with the 03-04 but they mostly had blown o-rings or just dident work! lol Any way thanks for the info!

 

Hey is your probe mounted on the header? Or on the down pipe from the turbo?

 

They said it is the manifold. I know nothing about these trucks. For all I knoe they are just telling me this. Thanks for the help.

 

Who's "They"? Ask "Them" to show you where it is mounted. Or, take a look at the exhaust manifolds and see if you can see a probe that is threaded into it on any cyl close to the head. The easiest place to mount the probe IMO is the rear cyl on the drivers side bottom side. You can see it if you get under the truck and look. Or try to find what looks like a braided line coming out of the firewall on the drivers side and trace where it goes.

 

OK (They) is the shop I took it to. Also I looked it is mounted the manifold between the rear Cyl and the exhaust or turbo pipe the manifold bolts to.