I am looking to purchase my first diesel for towing my race cars to and from road race SCCA/NASA tracks and my drag cars from dragstrip...

I will be mainly towing an two axle 20 ft trailer with a 3000-4000lb race car on it. I currently have an 2002 Silverado with a 5.3L and it tows fine for normal stuff but any type of grade or hill and it just doesnt cut it. Plus its a little underweight @ a 1/2 ton truck so I'd prefer a bigger truck.



Im looking at 99-02 F250/350's with a 7.3L that I would like to do the standard full exhaust, intake, programmer so itll run hard (plus I like to goof off so id like a fast diesel).

My friends are trying to talk me into spending more money and getting an 03 6.0L diesel because the motor/transmission is WAY Better. I have dynoed several 6.0's and they haul *** with all the work done to them (chip, intake, exhaust).

What am I giving up going with a 99-00 7.3L vs an 03/04 6.0L??

Is there any other improvements that are notable difference between them? I'll be getting a crew 4-door cab short or long bed. I'd really like to save the money and spend alot less on the older one, but if there is really good cause to spend alot more for the 03+, ill do it.

 

Go with the 7.3L. Worked out at a Ford Dealership in Montana where the diesels really get used. 90% of the people that traded 'up' to the 6.0L hated em and wanted back into a 7.3L. 6.0 are fine for the most part if you keep on top of the maintenance and leave em stock, but if you want to do any mods, you would be better off going with a 7.3L. In terms of motor effeciency, the 7.3 runs about 60% stock, while the 6.0 is upwards of 90%. Look at the stock boost levels as well. The 7.3 has all kinds of room to add to it. You can still find 2003 7.3's under warranty, but time is running out. The 03 I just bought has through October.

Good luck

-Kimball

 

Reliability. I'd take a 7.3 over a 6.0 ANY day. Currently, I'm shopping for a used F-250/350 also. I WILL NOT even consider any truck in my price range with the 6.0, mainly cause they are all 2003's (the worst year of the 6.0s).

 

look for the same year f250 or f350 with a diesel for that price

 

Go with the 7.3. I have an '01 with 166,000 miles on it and it runs great. Much more reliable than the 6.0s in the time frame you're looking at.

 

Don't forget that 2003 was split. Ford made both the 7.3 and 6.0 that year. Two easy ways to check without lifting the hood.

7.3 - Look at the fender badges. 7.3s have black badges NO red on them.
Look at the vin. The 8th digit is the engine type. If it is a F it is a 7.3L.
ex. 1FTNX21F63EA28232


6.0 - Have chrome and red badges.
Again, if the 8th digit of the Vin is P it is a 6.0L.
ex. 1FTNX21P03EB62274

Happy Hunting!!

-Kimball

 

Another thing to remember is that if you don't need one right now and can wait a bit, as in this year, all of the 2003 7.3L trucks will fall out of warranty and there should be a few more going up for sale at lower prices than now. I guess the same can be said currently of the 2002s. All of those should be dropping here in the next month or so as their warranty ends. If you can get the in-service date of the vehicle, figure 5 yrs/100K on the powertrain from that date.

-Kimball

 

You would be best to avoid getting an 03 6.0L as that was its maiden voyage and was very problem plauged. There were good ones out there, but there were also alot of lemons. This was by far the most problematic year for the 6.0L. Even the early 04s that still got the 03 engine had problems. It wasn't until late 04-05 that they started to become more reliable.


If you're wanting to go crazy with power and want a 7.3L 99-00 trucks have forged rods which are stronger. Though going with just a chip/intake/exhaust will be fine for any year. If you do go big on power (turbo, injectors, hpop, fuel system, etc) the PMR rods in the 01-03 will not hold for long.

Final note, if you get a chip YOU NEED TO GET GAUGES!!!! Bottom line you need to watch the EGTs and boost levels. If you get an auto you also need a trans temp gauge regardless if you have a chip or not. And FYI the trans gauge in the cluster on the 02-03 trucks is just an idiot light that doesn't even warn you until after the transmission has been damaged.

 

Well I'm a bit biased, but I like my 7.3L.

99 and 00 have the better rods from the factory if you want to make big power. However the "early" 99s made in 98 with the fender mounted V8 PSD badge have a non desired airbox and a smaller turbo.

Gauges are the most important thing to have first though.

Adrianspeeder

 

The early 99 differences go a little farther when you get into the front suspension (mainly a few bolt and shaft size differences) and minor trim. They also had smaller injectors rated at 120cc instead of the 140cc like 99.5-03. The air induction system was different as well. This was the smaller turbo, different airbox, turbo pedestal, up pipes, babys butt, spider pipe, intercooler tubes, intake manifolds, etc were all different. Though 99.5-03 inductions system are a direct bolt on.


Now its true that the early 99 did have the airbox that would fail mounting tabs from the factory, but there was a TSB released to fix that. Not all got fixed, but regardless any factory airbox should be replaced anyways. A DIY intake only costs $60 or so and will filter better and flow much better than stock, be it early 99 or late 99.

The turbo is smaller, but I'll gladly take my early 99 turbo over a late 99 anyday. The late 99 setup had (and I stress that) more upgradeability options, however that is no longer the case. BDP now has a bolt on turbo for the early 99 trucks. If you go any bigger than a BB turbo then you're talking a whole new setup anyways so it makes no difference. Now also keep in mind that when you start adding a chip, intake, and exhaust to a late 99 turbo and you start driving hard or towing heavy you will get surge. This can kill a turbo in relatively short time. The early 99 turbo does not suffer from this problem, though they can surge under the right conditions, but it is very difficult. The early 99 also has a much faster spoolup time compared to the late 99 due to its smaller housing. Heck my early 99 can easily reach 25psi before my wastegate opens. If I adjusted it I could easily reach 30psi.