is this a good deal?
#1
05-19-2007 | 01:18 PM
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9
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From: Russellville, AR
is this a good deal?
I'm considering trying to get rid of my 02 F150 with a 4.6 and getting a diesel. The biggest holdup is gonna be finding somewhere to get rid of my truck for pay-off (around 10000) and finding a diesel for the same payment level. I have found a 00 Superduty that I might be able to do that with. Its an 00 250 SD with 119000 miles, 4wd, auto tranny, crew cab short bed, sliding rear glass, running boards, drop in bed liner (not a big fan of those but that can be changed), cloth interior. They are asking 17,988 for it now but may come down. Would this be a decent deal or not? I know the miles are kinda high but don't diesel motors usually run to a lot higher mileage than gas? The SD also has a tow package which I would like. What kind of fuel mileage could I expect to get from this truck? What should I look for if I decide to go check out the truck?
#2
05-19-2007 | 10:01 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,946
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From: Right Coast
The $18k is about in the ballpark, but towards the high side. Bluebook will put it higher, but I hate using that it doesn't represent market value very well. The 00 is a good engine to run if you want to do any aftermarket stuff to the engine. Its got a good chance of having a 17* hpop in it, plus it will have forged rods and is prior to the mechanical diode in the transmission.
As for things to look at is the condition of all the fluids. The engine oil will probably be jet black, but check for any traces of fuel or coolant. Also with the engine running pull the oil fill cap off. You should see some smoke coming out. This should just be drifting out, if it is an excessive amount or is coming out under any kind of pressure then the engine needs a rebuild (bad compression).
Pull the trans dipstick, the fluid should be nice and red. If its dark and has a rotten or burnt smell then the trans has been run hot and the fluid not changed. The 4R100 in stock form is ok, but its defiently not bullet proof. Spend $4k and you can have a 100% bullet proof trans, which ironically is the same amount Ford wants for a stock reman unit.
For the coolant you'll want to bring a set of test strips to check the SCA levels. You can pick these up at any Navistar or Fleetgaurd/Cummins Filtration store. These check the level of the supplemental coolant addatives (SCA) in the coolant. If its too low or too high then there could be possible damage to the water jacket in the block and heads from the caivation in the cooling system.
Open up the air box and check the condition of the air filter and see if there is any trace of dirt going up the intake tube. Also if it has a K&N air filter in it then be VERY careful about buying it. Thats one of the worst things you can put on a turbo engine. After that pull the intake line off the turbo itself and check the turbo fins (obviously don't have the engine running when you're doing this). You don't want to see any missing or damaged fins. The leading edge should be very sharp and defined. If they look like they've been sand blasted then walk away from the truck. Also spin the turbo wheel and make sure it spins freely. There should be no radial play in the wheel, but some end play is acceptable. Basically if you can move the wheel any way other than in and out then its got issues.
You'll also want to check the condition of the oil pan for any rust. Unless you're 100% sure that the truck has NEVER seen salt before. The PSD oil pans are prone to rusting out, and a dealership will charge $1000 to replace it as the engine must be pulled to fix it properly. I would also check the rear diff cover for excessive rust as well. Mine went after 116k, but its a $30 part from a dealer.
Check underneat the bed for any traces of a gooseneck ball or 5th wheel hitch. If its been towed with then it could have been run heavy.
Check the spare tire carrier, as the cable likes to break and your spare tends to depart the truck upon this happening. I'd winch it down and check for any fraying on the cable.
Finally if the engine has been chipped then you may want to think twice about buying it. Alot of early chips, and fly by night companies write really bad programming and can wreak havoc on your engine.
I know thats alot of stuff to check, but when buying a truck with over 100k on it its wise to find these problems now because they can lead to catasrophic failures later.
For mileage, its probably got 3.73 gears (possibly 3.55s) so you're probably looking at anywhere from 12-18mpg on the highway at 70mph just cruising. In town it could be anything from single digits to 14mpg. Towing, about the same as in town. Its all going to depend on driving style and the condition of the fuel system. Keep the rpms under 2k and it'll save on the economy. I take about a 2-3mpg hit when I go over 2k. The Ford factory fuel system is horrible for ingesting air on the suction side of the pump and in the tank. Depending on how air tight your fittings happen to be will greatly affect the mpgs. There are some mods you can do to fix that which cost under $50.
And by the time you read that book, the truck will be sold
As for things to look at is the condition of all the fluids. The engine oil will probably be jet black, but check for any traces of fuel or coolant. Also with the engine running pull the oil fill cap off. You should see some smoke coming out. This should just be drifting out, if it is an excessive amount or is coming out under any kind of pressure then the engine needs a rebuild (bad compression).
Pull the trans dipstick, the fluid should be nice and red. If its dark and has a rotten or burnt smell then the trans has been run hot and the fluid not changed. The 4R100 in stock form is ok, but its defiently not bullet proof. Spend $4k and you can have a 100% bullet proof trans, which ironically is the same amount Ford wants for a stock reman unit.
For the coolant you'll want to bring a set of test strips to check the SCA levels. You can pick these up at any Navistar or Fleetgaurd/Cummins Filtration store. These check the level of the supplemental coolant addatives (SCA) in the coolant. If its too low or too high then there could be possible damage to the water jacket in the block and heads from the caivation in the cooling system.
Open up the air box and check the condition of the air filter and see if there is any trace of dirt going up the intake tube. Also if it has a K&N air filter in it then be VERY careful about buying it. Thats one of the worst things you can put on a turbo engine. After that pull the intake line off the turbo itself and check the turbo fins (obviously don't have the engine running when you're doing this). You don't want to see any missing or damaged fins. The leading edge should be very sharp and defined. If they look like they've been sand blasted then walk away from the truck. Also spin the turbo wheel and make sure it spins freely. There should be no radial play in the wheel, but some end play is acceptable. Basically if you can move the wheel any way other than in and out then its got issues.
You'll also want to check the condition of the oil pan for any rust. Unless you're 100% sure that the truck has NEVER seen salt before. The PSD oil pans are prone to rusting out, and a dealership will charge $1000 to replace it as the engine must be pulled to fix it properly. I would also check the rear diff cover for excessive rust as well. Mine went after 116k, but its a $30 part from a dealer.
Check underneat the bed for any traces of a gooseneck ball or 5th wheel hitch. If its been towed with then it could have been run heavy.
Check the spare tire carrier, as the cable likes to break and your spare tends to depart the truck upon this happening. I'd winch it down and check for any fraying on the cable.
Finally if the engine has been chipped then you may want to think twice about buying it. Alot of early chips, and fly by night companies write really bad programming and can wreak havoc on your engine.
I know thats alot of stuff to check, but when buying a truck with over 100k on it its wise to find these problems now because they can lead to catasrophic failures later.
For mileage, its probably got 3.73 gears (possibly 3.55s) so you're probably looking at anywhere from 12-18mpg on the highway at 70mph just cruising. In town it could be anything from single digits to 14mpg. Towing, about the same as in town. Its all going to depend on driving style and the condition of the fuel system. Keep the rpms under 2k and it'll save on the economy. I take about a 2-3mpg hit when I go over 2k. The Ford factory fuel system is horrible for ingesting air on the suction side of the pump and in the tank. Depending on how air tight your fittings happen to be will greatly affect the mpgs. There are some mods you can do to fix that which cost under $50.
And by the time you read that book, the truck will be sold