Still hard to start!!!
#16
#17
#18
Originally Posted by liftITupHIGH
ohh....ok. letter cool down tonight tryer again ina mornin with a cam of course.. if the turbo is shot im def. gonna upgrade to a bigger one.. what all i needed to go bigger?
#20
Wow, it sounds like the shop might be taking you to the cleaners on this repair. I'd ask him exactly whats wrong with the UVH. They do go bad and burn pins, but usually when that happens it runs REALLY rough almost all the time.
The small tube that he replaced goes from the exhaust back pressure sensor. The tube runs from the exhaust manifold on the PS up to the sensor at the front of the hpop resivoir. It just gives a pressure reading to the sensor. They do periodically plug with soot, or corrode out. When this happens the sensor sends the truck into defuel mode. It doesn't affect starting, but just less power. You'd have been ahead to plug the manifold, remove the line, and install an SP EBPS dongle. It sends an ok signal to the PCM keeping it from going into defuel mode. No issues with doing this.
The turbo bearing I'd have doubts with too. Pull off the intake line and check for any axial movement. It can have some fore/aft movement (1-2mm tops), but any side to side motion means the bearings are on the way out.
If you want to upgrade there are many drop in turbos. The H2E is a full system with a new pedestal, up pipes, CAC tubes, and intake tube. A stock H2E is a dog off the bat, a hybird H2E can spool better. Either way you won't push enough fuel with stock injectors to spool it worth a crap. If you are keeping the stock injectors you will need a small ball bearing or Turbonetics unit, but if you don't already have a hot chip you will need one. FYI an H2E is going to run you about $2400, while the Turbonetics BB is $1500. You're getting into a very expensive world here because not only are the parts expensive, the parts are dependant on others to function properly.
The small tube that he replaced goes from the exhaust back pressure sensor. The tube runs from the exhaust manifold on the PS up to the sensor at the front of the hpop resivoir. It just gives a pressure reading to the sensor. They do periodically plug with soot, or corrode out. When this happens the sensor sends the truck into defuel mode. It doesn't affect starting, but just less power. You'd have been ahead to plug the manifold, remove the line, and install an SP EBPS dongle. It sends an ok signal to the PCM keeping it from going into defuel mode. No issues with doing this.
The turbo bearing I'd have doubts with too. Pull off the intake line and check for any axial movement. It can have some fore/aft movement (1-2mm tops), but any side to side motion means the bearings are on the way out.
If you want to upgrade there are many drop in turbos. The H2E is a full system with a new pedestal, up pipes, CAC tubes, and intake tube. A stock H2E is a dog off the bat, a hybird H2E can spool better. Either way you won't push enough fuel with stock injectors to spool it worth a crap. If you are keeping the stock injectors you will need a small ball bearing or Turbonetics unit, but if you don't already have a hot chip you will need one. FYI an H2E is going to run you about $2400, while the Turbonetics BB is $1500. You're getting into a very expensive world here because not only are the parts expensive, the parts are dependant on others to function properly.
#21
Originally Posted by powerstroke73
Wow, it sounds like the shop might be taking you to the cleaners on this repair. I'd ask him exactly whats wrong with the UVH. They do go bad and burn pins, but usually when that happens it runs REALLY rough almost all the time.
The small tube that he replaced goes from the exhaust back pressure sensor. The tube runs from the exhaust manifold on the PS up to the sensor at the front of the hpop resivoir. It just gives a pressure reading to the sensor. They do periodically plug with soot, or corrode out. When this happens the sensor sends the truck into defuel mode. It doesn't affect starting, but just less power. You'd have been ahead to plug the manifold, remove the line, and install an SP EBPS dongle. It sends an ok signal to the PCM keeping it from going into defuel mode. No issues with doing this.
The turbo bearing I'd have doubts with too. Pull off the intake line and check for any axial movement. It can have some fore/aft movement (1-2mm tops), but any side to side motion means the bearings are on the way out.
If you want to upgrade there are many drop in turbos. The H2E is a full system with a new pedestal, up pipes, CAC tubes, and intake tube. A stock H2E is a dog off the bat, a hybird H2E can spool better. Either way you won't push enough fuel with stock injectors to spool it worth a crap. If you are keeping the stock injectors you will need a small ball bearing or Turbonetics unit, but if you don't already have a hot chip you will need one. FYI an H2E is going to run you about $2400, while the Turbonetics BB is $1500. You're getting into a very expensive world here because not only are the parts expensive, the parts are dependant on others to function properly.
The small tube that he replaced goes from the exhaust back pressure sensor. The tube runs from the exhaust manifold on the PS up to the sensor at the front of the hpop resivoir. It just gives a pressure reading to the sensor. They do periodically plug with soot, or corrode out. When this happens the sensor sends the truck into defuel mode. It doesn't affect starting, but just less power. You'd have been ahead to plug the manifold, remove the line, and install an SP EBPS dongle. It sends an ok signal to the PCM keeping it from going into defuel mode. No issues with doing this.
The turbo bearing I'd have doubts with too. Pull off the intake line and check for any axial movement. It can have some fore/aft movement (1-2mm tops), but any side to side motion means the bearings are on the way out.
If you want to upgrade there are many drop in turbos. The H2E is a full system with a new pedestal, up pipes, CAC tubes, and intake tube. A stock H2E is a dog off the bat, a hybird H2E can spool better. Either way you won't push enough fuel with stock injectors to spool it worth a crap. If you are keeping the stock injectors you will need a small ball bearing or Turbonetics unit, but if you don't already have a hot chip you will need one. FYI an H2E is going to run you about $2400, while the Turbonetics BB is $1500. You're getting into a very expensive world here because not only are the parts expensive, the parts are dependant on others to function properly.
OHH.. he also said it may have a bad injector also... will let me know... I dont think hes trying to give me the shaft, known the an for a long time and friend of the family.
Shoot honestly thought about going back to the ald reliable F-1, had better luck with that one
#22
Originally Posted by liftITupHIGH
no dought on the world of expense, these are the things that definatly need to be replaced he's going to do further inspection on the engine to see whats wrong if anything, but the things i mentioned other than the turbo are definitly going out. The reason i took it to the shop, other than just trying to fix it myself, is because i drove about 80 miles today,40 each way and on the way home it started running rough like it had just been started and was trying to warm up, but it was already warm, had already drove 30 miles. When letting off the fuel it had a harsh, harsh vibration in it, and in a way kinda ran like a like a gasoline engine when its not firing on a cylinder, the way it misses and runs rough. So out of pure frustration and anger i stopped by the diesel doctor on the way home. I was honestly afraid to drive it home, but didnt have a choice.
OHH.. he also said it may have a bad injector also... will let me know... I dont think hes trying to give me the shaft, known the an for a long time and friend of the family.
Shoot honestly thought about going back to the ald reliable F-1, had better luck with that one
OHH.. he also said it may have a bad injector also... will let me know... I dont think hes trying to give me the shaft, known the an for a long time and friend of the family.
Shoot honestly thought about going back to the ald reliable F-1, had better luck with that one
However, to lighten things up... I think it is an injector problem too. It just sounds like it.
#23
Originally Posted by ManualF150
I dunno... I haven't had really any engine problems to really worry about on my F-150...
However, to lighten things up... I think it is an injector problem too. It just sounds like it.
However, to lighten things up... I think it is an injector problem too. It just sounds like it.
#24
Originally Posted by liftITupHIGH
I guess this tuesday will determine wether i go back to the ole f-1 or should i say a new f-1. This is the second diesel i have had and no luck out of either, both 7.3 and sopesedly those are the best. If this is my luck with the best i cant imagine my luck with the worst.. ohh well...
#25
Well if it started running like that then most likely one of the connectors for the UVH backed out and burnt some pins. Just so you know, this was a problem for a long time and quite some time ago Ford released some clips that hold the plugs together more securely. If you went 130k without them and one just burnt then I say you did pretty damn good.
The injector and turbo I'd still question. An injector doesn't typically just go bad all of a sudden unless you run alot of contaminated fuel through it. You would probably have noticed it running off prior to all of this.
For the price comment I wasn't talking about the repair, I was referring to the upgraded turbo you wanted and the parts you need to support it (chip/injectors). You can replace/rebuild the turbo for significantly less, as well as replace the injector for a reasonable price if you stay stock.
I know for me my SD has been quite a bit more trouble free than my old 97 F150. So far in 109k on my 99 I've had to replace an alternator, rear axle VSS sensor, front unit wheel bearing, and a rear diff cover. My 97 f150 was 2 starters, 5 alternators, water pump, 2 fan clutches, rear axle wheel studs, rear driveshaft ujoints, 3 front unit wheel bearings, and 1 transmission with the rebuilt one on the way out when I traded. You tell me which was more durable.
The injector and turbo I'd still question. An injector doesn't typically just go bad all of a sudden unless you run alot of contaminated fuel through it. You would probably have noticed it running off prior to all of this.
For the price comment I wasn't talking about the repair, I was referring to the upgraded turbo you wanted and the parts you need to support it (chip/injectors). You can replace/rebuild the turbo for significantly less, as well as replace the injector for a reasonable price if you stay stock.
I know for me my SD has been quite a bit more trouble free than my old 97 F150. So far in 109k on my 99 I've had to replace an alternator, rear axle VSS sensor, front unit wheel bearing, and a rear diff cover. My 97 f150 was 2 starters, 5 alternators, water pump, 2 fan clutches, rear axle wheel studs, rear driveshaft ujoints, 3 front unit wheel bearings, and 1 transmission with the rebuilt one on the way out when I traded. You tell me which was more durable.
#27
#28
Originally Posted by ManualF150
Did you get a video yet?
I didnt even drive my truck over there and they were only gonna give me 9000 for it and we went back and forth over it. Finnally we ended up settling on 14,000 for my truck, Can you guys believe that 14,000 dollars for my 99 psd with 130,000 miles on it sight un seen yeah thats right they didnt even see it and give me that much for it. signed all the paper work and drove my new crew cab home to take my F-2 back and it pretty much limped into the parking lot jumped out shook hands with the sales men and off i went... ohh to top that off thats more than i payed for the truck
#29
Wait, now you're saying he told you the heads were bad too? What shop is this, I need to make sure to avoid it if I'm in the area. I don't doubt that he was right on some accounts, but jeez, UVH, glow plugs, batteries, injectors, turbo, and heads all at once? Its a good thing you traded, another couple days there and the axles and transmission would need replacing too
#30
Originally Posted by powerstroke73
Wait, now you're saying he told you the heads were bad too? What shop is this, I need to make sure to avoid it if I'm in the area. I don't doubt that he was right on some accounts, but jeez, UVH, glow plugs, batteries, injectors, turbo, and heads all at once? Its a good thing you traded, another couple days there and the axles and transmission would need replacing too