This could go in the towing section but wanted to ask here first.

I have a 5th wheel camper....using after market pin box...and a sliding hitch, set at the lowest setting and my rig still isn't level over the bed. My 5er is already raised as high as it can be on the jake plates without flipping the axles. One recommendation from another RV'er is to remove some of the blocks from the rear of the truck....I am currently 2 inches too high....anyone ever done this and if so, what does it look like after you take out the blocks?

How easy is it?

 

You must have a really light pin weight. I had the opposite problem, I had to add some super springs so my truck sits level after hookup. I have about 2300# of pin weight though.
As for removing 2" of blocks, shouldn't be to hard at all. May have to buy shorter ubolts though if the factorys aren't threaded far enough. Have you thought about getting a taller tire and rim combo for the 5vr? You could easily gain an inch with a two inch taller combo if your fenders allow it.
other than that, try adding some weight to the front storage of your 5vr and rear of the truck.

 

Thanks, I thought about the taller tires and wheels combo but I am already 9 inches over the front and 7 in the back...thus I am trying to lower and level the 5er...my 5th airborne hitch doesn't sit in the same stock holes which is really the problem. My hitch is already at the lowest setting, 14.5 inches to the capture plate from the rails.

My dry pin weight is 1380 so I figure with our stuff under our bed and some clothes, we aren't much over that, prob close to 1600 lbs. But its a tad deceiving, b/c the rig isn't level so I bet I have a light pin weight.

This photo was taken with the stock pin box and even then you can see its not level...its more un-level now ever after raising the 5er to the highest setting on the jake plates. (Actually it looks about the same but its higher over the rails but about the same rake.)

 

RR, looking at that picture, I personnally would not remove the truck blocks. Your headlights are going to pointing into the tree's if you drop the truck further than it squats now, IMO. I assume the airbox sits higher in the bed that a traditional slider?
I am also hesitant about flipping axles. The 5vrs sit to high on the axle IMO and seeing all that air space would scare me on tight mountain turns at speed....(saw one in PF last July that had added a subframe lift kit to match his lifted Dodge PU. I would of been scared to sleep in that 5vr without putting on some tie-down straps)
Are the rear bed rails hitting the 5vr? It appears you have good space there to prevent hitting on curve/hills/lot entrances.
You might just have one of those rigs that can't get it perfectly level. Unless it is bucking you to death, which I think the airpin box helps eliminate, you might just have to live with the low rear on the 5vr.
Here is how mine sits loaded for a week:

 

Thanks for your post....my current set up looks just like what you see in the photo but its just higher over the rails now. I had 7 inches in the front, now I have 9 or so, but the rear of the camper is also lifted. I don't have new photos but could get some in the future if I were to go hook up and get to some level ground.


Just took this photo....think I could take one of these blocks out?


Also, my truck doesn't squat as much now b/c I added Timbrens.

 

Nice looking set up guys!!

I keep thinkin'..hard work will pay off...hard work will pay off

 

RR, the only block to remove is going to be the one that your timbrens ride against. The other piece is welded to the axle tube and provides a flat surface for the block (or springpack) to sit. You will need shorter u-bolts as well as you will run out of threads before the upper pad pulls the springpack tight against the axle it appears.
Since the tembrens are actually making contact without the 5vr attached, why not pull them back off and just let the truck sag more? That should accomplish the same thing as removing the blocks, plus you will not be able to use them after removing that block anyway.....
I don't think you want them resting directly on the axle tube.

Pagnew, thanks, it did take years of hard work to be able to have all the toys I have now. Funny, the thread in GD about 'stupid' small town cops harassing innocent people and stopping kids with 'cool' F150's because we are to poor to afford cool trucks, shheeesh....

 

Thanks again....those timbrens actually have 1/2- 3/4 inch of room over the stops. I think the photo is misleading.

I think you are on to something though, I may take them off and put the stock ones back on and go hook up and see what that does to my level. The only reason i did that was b.c I was hitting the overloads in the back sometimes and it was pinging back a little hard so I wanted to see how the timbrens did...they are much for forgiving. I could also get shorter ones.

Thoughts on that?

JP

 

It's certainly worth a try RR. I kept my factory yellow one's with the addition of the super springs. They will hit occasionally like when you enter a bridge deck at highway speed and the transition is not smooth.

The only problem I still see is that you are having to really squat the rear of the truck to get the 5vr level. Your headlights are going to blind people when towing....

How does the 5vr pull? Are you experiencing problems or are you just trying to get the 5vr level?

 

Sorry I didn't see this....The truck pulls the 5er like a dream. I have the 5th AB king pin box and virtually have no chucking or horizontal hits...without the timbrins, my rear only drops another inch or so still VERY far from hitting the stock bumps however, I do hit the overload springs when we hit those deep holes or expansion gaps. What I might do is go take my 5er to cabelas, and measure the distance over the rails....disconnect, take the timbrens off and rehook up and see how much it drops. If that does the trick, I may call timbren and get some shorter ones but longer than the stocks.

On our last trip to Hot Springs, I had to slow down as I caught myself going 80+ at times. I feel comfortable pulling 70-74 or so.

 

JP,
If you want any help taking off and re-installing those bags let me know. I'd be glad to help and I still owe you one. And we should go camping sometime. Dad and I are taking the fiver to Lake Mineral Wells SP in a couple weeks.

 

Ok, brought the rig home tonight to take the timbrens off and take photos and get measurements.

Here is my camper as it sits with the Timbrens on and in the TOW postion on the slider.









Let me know that you think of these, being as non level as it sits....

Ok form some stats are you ready for this?

with timbrens in tow positin:
front of cap over rail is 10" and rear is 9, so only one inch of slope, not as bad as I thought.
Loaded, wheel well to ground is 40" 1/4 (tow position)


Timbren height 7", stock bump 3" 3/4 (that is a major difference in size)
unloaded wheel wells to ground is only 41" 1/4

Net is, only 1 inch of sag is allowed by the timbrens when hitched. If I could get that to drop a little, I think I am going to be more level.

I have already taken the timbrens off and put the stock bumps back on. I will get it loaded and more photos in the morning.

I am also going to measure the distance from the bottom of the stock bump to the top of the block stop to see how much room I have to work with...this is where a different set of timbrens will be a factor.

Let me know if any of this is confusing. Thanks

JP

 

JP,
I am on the fence on this one. My first thought is that your 5vr was just not designed to be pulled by the tall F series 4x4. You shouldn't have to alter the truck (block removal) to level the 5vr. Taking out the Timbrens might work, but then you get into the problem of to much sag. Did you measure the wheel well height on the front while un-loaded and then loaded? Pre timbrens and after as well. I just wondeer how the load is transfering front and rear with each trial of the timbrens. Of course you can get a better idea weighing at a truck stop to. You just want to make sure you do not transfer to much weight to the rear and off the front.
I am no expert but I spent a fair amount of time when buying to optimize my camper size to truck's allowable weights. While I don't know you units weights, I have all my stuff and can share with you if needed. My Sedona is listed as a 31', so our weights may be similar.
I honestly think your tire /rim combo is to short now. What is the difference front to back from 5vr frame to ground while hooked? It appears you need 2 to 3" to level it. No way you are gonna lower the truck to make that happen and still have a decent pull IMO.
I await your new stat's....

 

Ok, just put the 5er back in storage.

Here are some new stats...this will be fun.

without timbrens:
Rear Wheel well unloaded, 41" 1/4
Loaded with 5er hitched, rear wheel wells are 39" 1/2, Front 40", so only .5 difference.

With the 5er in the tow setting on the hitch (forward postion)
Front 9" 7/8ths
Rear 9" 3/8ths, so about as level as this going to get.

It looks WAY better per the picture below. I am lucky to have the Lead Tech for Vogt RV as a neighbor, he was over last night and said my set up was "acceptable" even with the timbrens....today he came back over and said it was way better and he said no problem with my set up.

I do have 5" different from the front of the frame on the 5er to the ground than the rear but its hard to say b.c the frame is a tad different up front.

Some pics, after timbrens off, in tow position






Next post will be my over spring photos.

 

Here is a picture of my front overload pad

Not touching


Rear Overload, touching



I think I can live with this. we tested it on the highway, it was just as smooth without the timbrens.

Thoughts now