Up until recently, my parent's 01' F250 had been stock. It's still more or less stock, except for a Sniper custom tune, and now since this past weekend, it's got the DIY-Tymar mod.

Next mod on the list, gauges. I know, I know that should have been the first mod, but my parents don't tow anything anymore.

This is more or less a write up of how I went about doing my DIY-Tymar mod, just adding to the many that are out there.

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Materials:
-One(1) 3 inch PVC coupling pipe. Should be little less than $2.
-Two(2) 4-6 inch hose clamps. Should be less than $3 for both.
-One(1) 46637 Wix filter. Can be had for $36.33, shipped, from fleetfilter.com.

Got both things at Home Depot, though I'm sure you can find them at any hardware store.

1) Take the hose that connects to the air box off.

2) Take off the cover to the air box.

3) Take off the cables that go to the battery, and take off the battery cover.

4) Unscrew the four screws that hold down the air box (two on the bottom of the box, two on the edge that border the battery.) Take out the Intake Temperature Sensor as well. A quick counter clock-wise turn will get it out.

5) Take off the air box.

6) Take the PVC piece, and stick it in the filter neck. Tighten the hose clamps around the filter neck. I stacked them on top of each other just to get a better grip with the hard rubber.

7) Place the other end of the PVC in the intake hose. Tighten the clamp. Should look like this:


8) Zip-tie the intake temperature sensor out of the way. I Zip-tied it to some nearby wires, like this:


9) Take the above filter/hose assembly, and put the hose back where it goes. (Don't know exactly what it's called.) The filter should fit in nice and snug in the space where the air filter box was:

I'd say there is about 2-3 inches of free space under the filter, even with the snug fit.

10) Put the battery cover back on, and reconnect the cables.

Here's the finished product:


Total time: ~30 mins, if even that. I think what took the longest time was taking the air box out.

Those are all the steps I can remember. I'll edit if I remember something.

 

How is the quality of those DuraLite filters?

 

Can't really tell you since I just got it, but from what I read they are the best paper filters.

Just holding, though, it seemed well constructed.

 

Not really a new mod by any means, but a step above the stock box.




Though your post needs a few things pointed out. If you have an early 99 truck that did not have its airbox updated during the TSB then this mod will have to be done differently. You also don't want to be stacking up hose clamps like you did. The worm gear design isn't up to the challenge and won't seal the filter neck. The rubber material is too stiff. A high torque clamp is required if you use the Duralite filter.


I also can't stress enough DO NOT use PVC pipe. That is one of the worst things you can possibly do, unless you're trying to wipe out the engine, in which case its one of the best. The problem with PVC pipe is that over time it can, and will become brittle. The constant heat changes seen during cold weather don't help this either, nor the fact that you're trying to compress material around it. Think about what happens when that gets brittle, thats right it breaks. Just one of those small pieces now has a direct shot to the turbo. Can you say boom? Aside from the risks of that PVC pipe has a much thicker wall resulting in a restriction and disruption of the airflow.


The material you need to be using is 4" OD exhaust pipe. It does not get brittle over time, is just as strong but has a thinner wall for better flow, and will allow higher clamping loads. The thing with the 6637 filter is that its neck is made from some pretty stiff rubber, and to effectively seal it you need a constant torque (or high torque) hose clamp. The std worm gear style isn't up to the challenge. Since you have to crank down so hard on it to make a good seal you're putting alot of stress in that area and PVC isn't made for that kind of abuse. All you need is a piece thats 4-6" long and most exhaust shops have stuff like that in their cuttings piles. Just go in an ask if you can take a look, most times they give you that piece for free or just a couple bucks. I did this mod about 4 years ago to my truck and went through a few different revisions to get to what I have now.


The Duralite filter has a decent life to it. I ran mine for almost 2 years and it held up well.


I would suggest instead of the Duralite to get a Green 2169 filter. It has a much smaller body, uses a flexible rubber neck (no high torque hose clamp needed and it seals better), and flows 1440cfm which is MUCH higher than the Duralite filter. Plus its a washable filter. Mine cost me $60 which also included a washing kit. Going from the stock box to the Duralite filter was a big jump in performance, and then going to the Green filter from the Duralite was at least the same jump in performance again if not more. I've still got my Duralite riding in the toolbox incase I need it, but unless something happens to my Green its NOT going back on. I can try and get some pics of my intake setup with the Green filter later tonight. I'm at work now and can't access webshots.

 

Thanks for the info powerstroke.

Yea, I'd read about the 99's needing some modifications, but since this was to an '01, it kinnda skipped my mind to mention it.:o And yea, this mod has been around for what, 3-4 years?

I was going to use exhaust pipe, since that's what most use, but I ran across the PVC first, and it was the perfect diameter. Figured it was OK since the walls were pretty thick, but didn't really think about the air restriction it might cause. Here's an inside shot:


I don't think I have any diesel shops around here. Guess I'll see if one of the exhaust shops carries that big of a diameter.

You think the PVC will hold for 2 weeks of use? Even then, it's not real heavy use, just some easy driving (my mom doesn't have a lead foot by any means, and the tune doesn't add fuel until it "detects" boost, so the engine isn't working too hard.)

I'll stick with the Duralite for a year (I already spent the money on it ), then I'll replace it with one of the Green filters.

Again, thanks for the info powerstroke. Might have saved me a blown engine.

Oh, BTW, where can I get a constant torque clamp from?

 

Well you can get by for 2 weeks, but the faster you can replace the PVC the better. It only takes one piece to go to the turbo and you're looking at $1000+ to replace.

The mod works for late 99 trucks as you did it (minus the PVC), but the early 99 trucks had a different intake line. There was a TSB out to update the early 99s to the 99.5-03 style box, so some are updated some aren't. Mine was one that wasn't.


Now the "tune" you said you have doesn't add fuel until it detects boost huh? Might be kind of hard since you need fuel to make boost. No programmer, chip, module, anything adds fuel when it detects boost. It is running off a fuel map which takes into account rpms, throttle position, air conditions, and engine load. Boost is nothing more than a byproduct of burnt fuel.


I also really hope you have a full set of gauges in the truck if you have ANY chip in the truck. No matter how much fuel you're adding you're adding heat. If you don't monitor the EGTs you can literally melt a hole in the top of the pistons. Every truck and tune is different so its essential to have it.

If you have any large truck dealers they will carry the pipe, or try and find a large truck repair shop. Alot of automotive exhaust shops actually deal in 4" pipe as well. The high torque hose clamp can be gotten from Napa or any Fleet or Farm store. Look at the clamps that hold your intercooler boots on, the ones with the springs on them. Thats the style you're after, though the ones you'll find most likely won't have the spring.

My old intake with the 6637 filter


My replacement tube (yes this replaces the whole intake tube and CCV venturi)


The tube installed


Green Filter


Overall Intake

 

Hmm, maybe "detects" was the wrong word. From what I understand, it adds fuel after around 2000 RPM, and only when the pedal is WOT. I understand 2000 RPM is about where the boost starts to really kick in, so that's why I said "detects boost." Bad wording. :o So with my mom driving it, it probably won't even get into the 2000 RPM range, much less WOT.

As for the gauges, yea, I really need to get some. If the truck was used for towing, that probably would have been the first mod. The guy told me as long as I didn't tow at WOT, I should more or less safe. The tune/program itself is rather conservative, when it does kick in. He told me once I got gauges to get back him. Guages are the next mod, I promise.:o

Once again, thanks for your help, powerstroke.