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2004 6.0L Fuel Filters

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  #1  
Old 03-12-2008, 05:35 PM
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2004 6.0L Fuel Filters

Ok - little background on this truck...its high miles (96K on a 2004 Model F250), I just bought it. I took it to the dealer to get a small oil leak repaired since its still under engine warranty. No big deal in my book. While its there, I am having them check EVERYTHING they can cover on the engine warranty of course. I am also having the oil changed to the tune of $107.xx out the door.

I will admit, its my first crack at a diesel and I know that maintenance costs are way more than a gas rig...and I am ok with that.

I have heard from several folks that the fuel filters are a major thing that needs to be paid attention to and kept up. Great, I am all about logical preventive maintenance. Well, since I dont know the history of this truck, I asked how much to change the filters. He quoted me $185.00ish. I figured it sounded a little on the high side, so I opted to wait. I know there is one frame mounted under the cab and another on top of the engine. Parts will run me about $55.00 locally from the ford dealer.

My question is how damn hard is it to do? The owners manual made it sound like no big deal at all. I figure you twist it off, spill a little fuel, new o-ring, filter and back it goes....but $130.00 worth of labor for 2 filters and what seems like 10 mins of work? Am I missing something here?

Who changes their own here and whats the process really like? I am fairly mechanically inclined (can do my own brakes etc..not any overhauling or anything like that)

Clue me in guys.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:21 AM
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Its simple I changed them out 10 - 15 mins tops not even that much mess small puddle on frame rail one no mess on the top of engine one... changed o - rings on caps and no leaks or problems yet ...$185 is steep if you ask me but i also take mine to the dealer for $110 oil changes due to the amount of oil i have to dispose of when i do it myself...oil change takes longer than fuel filters
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by VegasScrew
Its simple I changed them out 10 - 15 mins tops not even that much mess small puddle on frame rail one no mess on the top of engine one... changed o - rings on caps and no leaks or problems yet ...$185 is steep if you ask me but i also take mine to the dealer for $110 oil changes due to the amount of oil i have to dispose of when i do it myself...oil change takes longer than fuel filters

I am planning to use the dealer for oil changes...I never change my own, let alone on this thing simply because of the volume. I am going to have to learn about these fuel filters though because I just cant justify that expense to get them done.

Any special tools needed?
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:10 AM
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Pep boys sells a socket that is dual 25 & 26 mm (I think that is the correct size) for about $10. It will work on both the fuel and oil filter caps.
International sells a combo kit of the fuel filters for about $32 here.
I have 4x4 so the frame filter is a little more aggravating to get to, but it is still a simple job.
First time I did it I put in the newer drain plug. Also put in a Fumoto vavle to make the oil changes easier.
Last oil change was $53 in oil and filter. We have oil recycling centers here so I just take it when I am headed to the trash dump.
As for the frame filter, I waited until the truck was on about 1/4 tank, pulled the drivers side front and back up onto ramps, drained maybe a cup out the drain plug and had the filter done in a few minutes. No big deal or mess. Seems like there is a groove the filter slides into. Only done once so far but will be doing again in 300 more miles when I hit 30,000.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:43 AM
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I know this may sound a little lame....but IF I were to swing by our local International parts house...what am I asking for? Do I say, I need 6.0L Ford Fuel filters or do they call that engine by another name? Mine is also a 4x4, so I guess it sounds a little harder to get done. I would crawl under and look, but its at the dealer getting something looked at right now since its still under warranty.


Originally Posted by harleyrider
Pep boys sells a socket that is dual 25 & 26 mm (I think that is the correct size) for about $10. It will work on both the fuel and oil filter caps.
International sells a combo kit of the fuel filters for about $32 here.
I have 4x4 so the frame filter is a little more aggravating to get to, but it is still a simple job.
First time I did it I put in the newer drain plug. Also put in a Fumoto vavle to make the oil changes easier.
Last oil change was $53 in oil and filter. We have oil recycling centers here so I just take it when I am headed to the trash dump.
As for the frame filter, I waited until the truck was on about 1/4 tank, pulled the drivers side front and back up onto ramps, drained maybe a cup out the drain plug and had the filter done in a few minutes. No big deal or mess. Seems like there is a groove the filter slides into. Only done once so far but will be doing again in 300 more miles when I hit 30,000.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:59 AM
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I have the part number at home. Do a search here, it has been listed many times in the past.

The IH number fits a different international motor, but it is also the same for the 6.0...
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by harleyrider
I have the part number at home. Do a search here, it has been listed many times in the past.

The IH number fits a different international motor, but it is also the same for the 6.0...


I just called International...they said yes, we sell them, but as individuals, but he didnt know anything about the frame mounted filter. I asked him if he was sure there are not a "pair" in the box and although he didnt look, he said they were not.

I'm on hold trying to reach another International dealer right now....
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:45 PM
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Found this while looking to see if I had the part number in this PC:

1. The fuel filter kit should include a large primary fuel filter, a smaller secondary fuel filter and one larger O-ring and a smaller O-ring. If you don’t have these replacements, don’t proceed. You will need a 36mm or 1-3/8" socket to remove the HFCM cap. An oil filter removal tool can also work instead of the socket. The end of a 1/2" drive can be used to remove the filter cap on the engine.

2. Stop the vehicle and shut off the engine.



WARNING: The vehicle must be stopped with the engine off when draining

the HFCM. Fuel may ignite if separator is drained while the

engine is running or vehicle is moving.

It helps to park with the vehicles front on a slight incline with wheels chocked and vehicle in park or in gear with parking brake set.

If the vehicle is 4WD, jack up the driver side front axle to lift the front drive shaft for better clearance to the drain plug.

3. Locate the HFCM and place an appropriate container under the drain plug (see illustration).


Suggestion: Use a 3-liter empty soft drink bottle cut off at the shoulder, clean and empty.

4. Remove the drain plug, using a 6mm hex drive, by turning it counterclockwise from above the plug while holding the empty container under the frame just below the plug.



5. Allow the HFCM to drain for approximately 25 seconds or until clean fuel is observed. A very full fuel tank will cause the HFCM to drain fuel until tank is low enough for flow to stop.

HINT: unclip the fuel return line where it is clipped to the frame by the filter. Unclip the same line from the retainer clip about 12" to the rear. Push the line up and out of the way to get more room to work.

6. Remove the fuel filter cap by turning counterclockwise using a 36mm socket and a pivoting head ratchet. A high quality oil filter type wrench will do.





7. Remove and discard the old fuel filter element from the end cap.

8. Carefully clean the mating surfaces.

The engine will not run properly if the fuel filter is not installed in housing.

9. Install the new fuel filter by sliding the filter into the HFCM. Do NOT use the old o-ring. Diesel fuel makes it swell and will leak if reused. Slide a new O-ring into position above the fuel filter end cap threads.

TIP: Place a piece of foil or plastic wrap on the frame to protect against dirt being transferred to the new filter.



10. Screw the fuel end cap, with new filter and O-ring, back into housing. Torque to 25 Nm (19 lbs/ft.).

11.Reinstall the drain plug by turning it clockwise until it is firmly seated. Do NOT over tighten.

12. Verify that the drain plug is closed and sealed, and then remove the container from under the vehicle.

This completes the primary fuel filter change.

13. Secondary Fuel Filter location.

14. Remove fuel filter end cap with a 15/16th inch socket or ½ inch square drive.


15. Remove the filter and the O-ring. Caution: Fuel filter housing is filled with fuel.

16. Remove excess fuel from housing with bubble syringe (that’s the thing that looks like a turkey baster, but don’t use your wife’s unless you get a new one).

17. Insert new secondary fuel filter (small filter in kit) into fuel filter housing.

18. Slide a new O-ring into position just above fuel end cap threads.

Tip: Some people like to fill the filter housing with an additive like Stanadyne Lubricity Formula.

19. Reinstall fuel end cap with new O-ring back onto the filter hosing. Torque end cap to 14Nm (about 8 lbs./ft.).

Warning: Tightening beyond torque specs will crack the fuel filter cap.

20. Turn ignition key to “ON” DO NOT START ENGINE three times for 30 seconds each with a wait of 15 seconds in between. This will charge the fuel system and move fuel through the pump.

21. Remove all tools and rags clear of engine. Remove drained fuel away from vehicle and properly dispose.

22. Start engine and check for leaks and correct running.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 01:51 PM
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Here it is:

Try P/N is 1847170C92 first and see if it is still available. Some say the number changed to this: 1847170C93.

Should be 2 filters and 2 o'rings, one box. Frame filter is larger and engine top is fairly small.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:42 PM
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Ok, I called the second International store, which is all part of one group "Southwest International" The first I called was in Dallas. He didnt know much of what I was talking about. So I called the one in McKinney (north of Dallas for you out of towners). The guy was very knowledgable and knew what I was talking to. He gave me a part number of FS19197, but said he was out of stock, could have them tomorrow. Price is $36.95. Great...then I ask, are you by chance going to get it from the Dallas store (which is closer to me at work)? To which he replied yes. I told him I would save him the hassle and go pick it up down there. So, I called the Dallas store back...gave the guy the part number. Yep, its in stock...$79.95!!! What the heck...I was just talking to another of your stores and they quoted me half that. What gives? He just said, they must have different price structures...and here is the price. Sort of a take it or leave it deal.

So, of course, I called back to McKinney and confirmed price, application and availability....he will have them tomorrow.

Sorry for the long post, but what a mess.

Oh and by the way - thanks for the instructions posted above as well as the part numbers you dug up. Those directions make it seem like more work than I anticipate it being. We will see in a week or so when I have a chance to change them.
 
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:50 PM
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zman, I just checked and the first p/n I gave above is on the receipt and box. Unless IH changed their numbers or an 04 is different, make sure you have something else to drive to IH incase that is the wrong filters....

goggled my old p/n and there are many sites listing it as being updated to the 2nd number since I bought my last filter.
IH - 1847170C93 (New Part #)
IH - 1847170C92 (Old Part #)

Also, as a double check, ask the parts guy if that is the filter for the IH VT 275 motor.
 

Last edited by harleyrider; 03-13-2008 at 07:58 PM.
  #12  
Old 03-13-2008, 08:10 PM
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Well, I guess we will see. My buddy has a 2005 6.0L and has never changed his. He has 45K on the truck. I started talking to him about the need to change them on schedule and he was really surprised....nobody has ever brought it up and I guess maybe he never read his manual. So...we are going to go at the filters together.

As for transportation, just in case...I am a lucky guy. I am a Sales Manager for an Acura dealer and I am provided a clean new Acura every 5800 miles, which is about every 3 months for me. If I get mine apart and its the wrong filters, I will put it back together and go back for the right stuff, using your part numbers above.
 
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Old 03-18-2008, 02:46 PM
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Both mine and my buddies trucks are done. About a 15 min job per truck and we both feel much better knowing its done.

I (well, my buddy picked them up) got the filters from International for $36.95/set. The part numbers listed above are the correct International part numbers. Still though, by going to International and giving him part number FS19797, it worked. Their computer must cross-reference that FS19797 part number and convert it to an International part number. At any rate, its all done and over with...thanks for the help guys.
 



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