F-250 / Super Duty / Diesel

New to Super Duty F250s and have some questions....

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Old 06-26-2008, 10:15 AM
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New to Super Duty F250s and have some questions....

Hi everybody! I currently drive my '81 F-250 4x4...and am looking to swap up to a MUCH newer model, now that my work is a lot closer to home and I have the opportunity to sell off my F-250 and my other daily and get a vehicle that can handle my project stuff and DD duties. Sooo, since I dont know a whole lot cumulatively, I wanted to get a little insight on these trucks. What I want is a F250 Supercab 4X. say between 99-03 (just taking a general survey these year models with the things I want were in my budget more often than not.)

So here comes the list.

On these model trucks...what mileage is probably too much for me to be considering for my new truck? I know there's diesels and non-diesels...but what's a safe even spread of mileage for these motors?

What's the longest bed I can get with a Supercab?

Are there any particular year models that I should aim for, or completely stay away from?
 
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Old 06-27-2008, 05:01 AM
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it just like any other vehicle depending on how it was maintained. its gonna be hard to find anything with under 100k. most people use them for work daily and not just weekend trips to home depot. are you gonna be doing lots of towing ?? if so go with the diesel. i have a 01 5.4 4x4 i dont do much towing but i plow winters and the 5.4 does a good job. youll get many opinions so...
 
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Old 06-27-2008, 02:40 PM
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Longest bed you can get on an extended cab is 8'. Too much mileage? I'd say try and find a truck under 120K miles. Do note that a truck with that many miles will need some attention... Ball joints, transmission, etc. Also, I'd avoid anything with the 6.0 motor, unless it is a 2005-2007.
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 01:34 PM
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As far as mileage goes, you'll be better off to keep your old truck if you get a gasser. I get 10 with my 99 v-8 and I get 13 with my 76 chevy. Milage on the newer gassers sucks
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 03:45 PM
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The crew cabs hold their value, so a supercab and a regular cab will be cheaper. 99+ f250s have a solid dana 50 axle up front.
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Need4racin
The crew cabs hold their value, so a supercab and a regular cab will be cheaper. 99+ f250s have a solid dana 50 axle up front.


The 99-01 F250s and F350 SRW trucks have the D50. The 02+ trucks have D60s, with the exception of a few early 02s that still had D50s. Prior to 02 the only way to get a D60 was with an F350 dually.

Just something to keep in mind is that the 99+ trucks use the craptastic sealed unit wheel bearings. They are no serviceable and cost $400+ EACH. If you have an early 99 then the bearings are closer to $500 each. I just wish they still used the 86-91 D60 axles so we could still have king pins.
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 05:00 PM
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sealed bearings huh?? i didnt know that. how many miles can u expect out of them before they need changing??
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:33 PM
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Hang on let me get my crystal ball.................nope sorry try asking again later.






Its just like any bearing, there is no way to determine its life. I've got 1 on the truck that is original at 122k. Some guys change them as often as they rotate tires. It all depends on what bearing you've got (yes there is a difference), what size tire you're running, how much backspace your wheels have, and how you drive the truck.

The larger the tire and the less the backspacing the faster you're going to eat them. They really don't like being side loaded like that. The way mine lasted as long as they have is that they had stock wheels and tires until about 108k.
 
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by powerstroke73
Just something to keep in mind is that the 99+ trucks use the craptastic sealed unit wheel bearings. They are no serviceable and cost $400+ EACH.
Mine was $209... One side lasted 120K miles. The other is at 124K and still going strong...
 
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Zaairman
Mine was $209... One side lasted 120K miles. The other is at 124K and still going strong...

Yes the cheap parts house ones can be found for around $200. On average they're the ones that fail faster. The ones using Timken or SKF bearings are higher dollar. I went through this with my 97 F150. Its basically the same bearing in a scaled down version. I went through many of the cheaper China bearings before I bought a set of SKFs.


On another side note it is possible to convert the unit bearing axles over to serviceable roller bearings. Dynatrac sells a kit, but its between $1700 and $1800. If you're lucky to have a truck without 4 wheel ABS and access to a simple mill you can build your own kit for $200ish.
 
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:43 PM
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i was on ebay yesterday and found a ridicuously awesome deal on an F250. I would seriously just buy it if i didnt just start a new job, and money is low at the moment. Its the best deal i've ever see on ebay for the truck and the condition its in. Since i cant get it i'll pass it on to here, maybe you can get it!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...QQcmdZViewItem

the only thing i think it would need fairly soon would be the tires.

nevermind - just checked out vehicle report, its got 169k miles, not 69k - sorry deal isnt that great anymore
 

Last edited by Delta17; 06-30-2008 at 08:26 PM. Reason: wrong info
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by powerstroke73
If you're lucky to have a truck without 4 wheel ABS and access to a simple mill you can build your own kit for $200ish.
Got a link/more info? I don't have 4 wheel abs...
 
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Old 07-01-2008, 07:09 PM
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I don't have a link for it, and nobody has ever posted anything about it before to my knowledge. Basically if you're lucky enough you can scrounge the parts from a junkyard. Around here you'll never find a D60 in the yards.

The basic of the setup is using the stock D60 spindle and hub. I can't remember since its been awhile since I've looked into it is if you have to swap to the 97 and older stub shaft. The spindle would have to be machined to accept the 99+ 4 bolt pattern. This isn't really a big deal if you have access to a mill. It could be done with a drill press, but it won't be near as accurate. You will be stuck with the 97 and older 8x6.5 bolt pattern up front. Now if you can get your hands on a 10.25 with a vss sensor you can swap the rear and have the old bolt patterns, which opens up alot of wheel choices.
 



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