looks like im a super duty guy now
#31
Not quite... They can see what percent load it has been run at. Tuned motors run at a higher percent load... It isn't definite proof. My buddy has taken his 6.0 in several times. He has gauges (EGT, Tranny, and boost) in a pod, along with an Edge Juice with Attitude chip which also has the gauges in it. He has both exhaust manifolds tapped with thermocouples. When he takes it in, he just takes out the Edge, leaving the truck stock with gauges, and two thermocouples... They've never said a word.
#34
#35
#37
thanks! me too!
and yes the 7.3 is the best as far as reliability. but the tranny on the 7.3 lacks. with the 6.0 if you gate a later year one its not bad and its got a great tranny. It all depends. if you put a couple grand into a 6.0 you can make it MUCH more reliable
and yes the 7.3 is the best as far as reliability. but the tranny on the 7.3 lacks. with the 6.0 if you gate a later year one its not bad and its got a great tranny. It all depends. if you put a couple grand into a 6.0 you can make it MUCH more reliable
#39
The 7.3L is reliable, but they are all at least 7 years old. Consequently, you may have a hard time finding one that is not completely ragged out. The 6.0L isn't bad, as long as you get a 2006 or 2007. Just plan to replace the head gaskets and head bolts with studs if you mod the engine. Your best bet is to buy a 6.0 that has already had head studs installed. I would personally much rather have a 6.0L than the 7.3L, but that's just me. The 2006 year model 6.0L had the lowest rate of warranty claims across the board for Ford Motor Company when compared to all of Ford's gas and diesel engines. The 6.0L has gotten a bad reputation, but many issues were resolved by running changes to the engine and software. The 7.3L changed very little over the 12 years it was used, due mainly to the fact that it is old technology with very little emissions. It lacks the complexity of the later engines, so there are less things to go wrong. Drive trucks that have different engines and get the one you like best.
#40
#41
Ok ill look around pretty good before I decide on which one i'll fly with. I found a 1996 250 with the 7.3 around here for $3850. Its got 200k miles, but I love that body style. Ill keep looking, if I find a 1995-6 bodystyle truck with around 100k miles (I know, I know, gonna be impossible) im gonna ****** it up. As long as the rust isnt to bad. Then I will take it wheelin since I wont have to worry about dingin' up a nice new truck.
#42
and in comes the diesel mechanic....
congrats on keeping guys like me in work!!!
You had BETTER do that EGR delete and Head studs soon. Keep the oil up well, do NOT let it idle for long periods of time, if you have to, RUN THE CRAP out of it asap... Find a shop that will run a BG flush system through your EGR and injectors every 15K
congrats on keeping guys like me in work!!!
You had BETTER do that EGR delete and Head studs soon. Keep the oil up well, do NOT let it idle for long periods of time, if you have to, RUN THE CRAP out of it asap... Find a shop that will run a BG flush system through your EGR and injectors every 15K
#43
and in comes the diesel mechanic....
congrats on keeping guys like me in work!!!
You had BETTER do that EGR delete and Head studs soon. Keep the oil up well, do NOT let it idle for long periods of time, if you have to, RUN THE CRAP out of it asap... Find a shop that will run a BG flush system through your EGR and injectors every 15K
congrats on keeping guys like me in work!!!
You had BETTER do that EGR delete and Head studs soon. Keep the oil up well, do NOT let it idle for long periods of time, if you have to, RUN THE CRAP out of it asap... Find a shop that will run a BG flush system through your EGR and injectors every 15K
#45
Some people do the studs proactively and other do them when the stock head bolts fail. I would run them as long as possible, then if they fail, have the studs put in. I guess you still have no regrets about stepping up to the diesel?