Shifting quickly is only half the battle... shifting into the right gear for the terrain and load and what is ahead is another feat. Seemingly enough, I have yet to drive an automatic that seems to always be in the right gear for what I'm doing.

But that's another story for another time.

 

Oh, I'm with ya! That was just for cars. Trucks still benefit from controlled gear selection. I'd love to convert mine to a manual if it was cheap lol. I feel like for 3/4 and 1 tons, a manual is very beneficial. Can't see a reason for them disappearing other than manu. cost

 

If I tune and delete the truck what does the 6.4, 5.9, 6.7 respond best to? Tunerwise. How is so much power made on these trucks? Boosting up is a obvious but after thinking about it I would likw to know the safe range before I did it. What's too much and what's safe relatively speaking?

 

That question is beyond my comfort zone and knowledge zone haha. Can't advise ya there! Most diesel tuners (the men writing the tunes) would probably be able to shed more light on that if you speak with a few, as they are the ones altering each component of the engine's ECU. But again, it's tricky tampering with those diesels and ya gotta be careful haha

 

If your looking for MAX reliability while towing, then stock tuning is your your safest bet. The more HP your making, the more stress on the motor and tranny. Tune for the delete and leave the fuel perimeters stock.

 

I don't care what engine we are talking about, stock is the safest period.

 

Stock is best if you want reliability because you will break something if you add a tuner to the mix. I know exactly when and where I blew the head gaskets on my 6.0. I was towing my 5er up a very long grade out of Marquette MI and the intercooler clamp let go causing the motor to go from 32lbs of boost to 0lbs of boost in an instant and it was right after that when the truck started pushing coolant out. I know it's only a matter of time before my trans say Eff You because the truck will roll over to 186,000 miles on the original trans and transfer case next week.

 

Yup, still sticking with what I originally said for a stock, component-meshing tune only. And there's the testimony from a guy running a tuner on a diesel

 

sounds like a plan! and who does the best tuning? or does it not matter?

 

^ My SCT tuner has a canned "trans only tune" on it. I removed my 50 HP tune and went with that for reliability reasons. The tranny tune I love though. The only place I noticed the 50 HP was in higher RPM, which I rarely use, so back to stock fuel parameters it went.

 

do the 6.4s and 6.7s still use the powdered metal in their rods? do they run any forged parts in these trucks? same thing with dodge? any forged parts? what goes bad first and what should I keep an eye on constantly. I think I'm going to go with some sort of extended warranty from whoever I buy the truck from if I end up finding a dealer. If not can you buy extended factory warranties for these trucks if I'm not the original owner? I know there are companies that do extended warrantys that are 3rd party but that seems sketchy in my eyes.

 

3rd party warranties are straight up scams; they never pay out. And doing the mods we've discussed will void any sort of from-factory warranty. And as far as I know, all Cummins run forged internals, not sure on the Fords

 

Ok, the 6.7's are running PMR's (powdered). Some are saying they wouldn't tune em cause they're particularly thin, but that's serious tuning. I still wouldn't mess with any of them though. The possibility, even small, of snapping rods is not something I'd want to deal with. Though, the motors are holding up fine in stock form and still throwing down 800 ft-lbs at the crank . . . How much more do you need? Haha. Apparently the 6.7's were scheduled for forged rods and somewhere down the line, the bean-counting bastards pulled the plug on that. So Ford is STILL cheaping out on us . . .

 

If you are that concerned about reliability, warranty, and what rods they use in the motor then even think about tuning it and just leave it stock. I know the 6.4 and 6.7 aren't even close the 6.0 but I've got almost $10,000 into motor related work alone for my truck I don't have anything close to what some guys have into their fuel system and motor's. These trucks and motors are expensive to fix when they go boom in stock form but when you mod them the dollar signs are going to add up real fast when things start break.

If I was buying a truck with a warranty I wouldn't even think about a tuner and leave it stock except for exhaust, gauges, and some appearance mods

 

I thought that for awhile but the regens are absolutely horrible for the amount of fuel wasted and the heat added to the heads, turbos, and engine compartment.

Tuning and not doing stupid dodge boy style burnouts and rolling coal for the sake of it will take these DPF trucks down the road for many years to come.

Adrianspeeder