Let's start over......
I know most of the detailing guys come across as such but someone will come along and be happy to help.
Any reason you picked the 4" pads instead of the 6.5"? I'd hate to see how long it takes to polish and wax our truck with a 4". The 6.5" took long enough.
As far as LC pads you'd probably use the blue or black pads.
I ordered my stuff from http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/
I think I'm gonna upgrade to the Flex polisher so I can go faster and have the ability to take out bigger imperfections compared to my G110.
You may want to check Detailers Domain and Adams as they're giving some discounts to us now.
Any reason you picked the 4" pads instead of the 6.5"? I'd hate to see how long it takes to polish and wax our truck with a 4". The 6.5" took long enough.
As far as LC pads you'd probably use the blue or black pads.
I ordered my stuff from http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/
I think I'm gonna upgrade to the Flex polisher so I can go faster and have the ability to take out bigger imperfections compared to my G110.
You may want to check Detailers Domain and Adams as they're giving some discounts to us now.
Speaking of...
Took some pics after installing my new red led 3rd, working on my hella led tails, a wash and cleaned and stored my HD 22's.
Be careful, I've been detailing many years and I'm so freakin **** about where/how my truck gets washed/parked/etc it drives most folks insane.
I must stop by this Myrtle's on my next trip through The Promised Land.
I must stop by this Myrtle's on my next trip through The Promised Land.
Just a little confused on wax and how to apply it with a da and pads.
WHat do you think of this?
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
Not seeing your truck in person I'd probably say you could get by just fine with Meguiars 205 polish and maybe just hit the badly swirled or scuffed spots with 105.
As far as waxing, just squirt a line around the pad or make and X across the pad and go to town. Just make sure you're not putting it on to thick. Let it cure and wipe down with a good MF towel, one that's made for buffing and removing wax.
I was thinking the same thing
Will I hear ya. I've gotten very into detailing and have a G110 and have been trying various products.
Your paint, I'm gonna just be honest, looks hideous. That being said, you can fix that. Here's my advice, take a line of product and use it and use it for a while and only use that so you get accustomed to how it works on that machine. Judging by how bad your paint looks, the M105 and M205 should remove *most* of that swirling/mirco scratches, but again, I'm only seeing pictures. The best methods to doing paint correction are starting least aggressive and moving up if that does not work.
Here's how I did a black Cadillac Catera with paint like that.
Wash with quality soap, then clay the entire car. Use M105, masking off each section. Since I didn't have 205, I used Ultimate compound, followed by Swirl X and that removed almost all the swirls. UC is between 105 and 205 in aggressiveness fyi. Then top with a wax like NXT 2.0 with has some fillers to make the paint pop even more. It's a synthetic wax so you will get a few months out of it depending on conditions. Carnuba waxes have great finishes but are made for natural things, so they look amazing but require more upkeep and applications in shorter periods of time. I use Collinite 476 S which is a long term wax which is great for NE since we get pounded by salt. It's a long process to working paint, but the machine takes most of the work out of it. Let me know if you want more info. Ian clearly knows what he is talking about by reading his post.
Your paint, I'm gonna just be honest, looks hideous. That being said, you can fix that. Here's my advice, take a line of product and use it and use it for a while and only use that so you get accustomed to how it works on that machine. Judging by how bad your paint looks, the M105 and M205 should remove *most* of that swirling/mirco scratches, but again, I'm only seeing pictures. The best methods to doing paint correction are starting least aggressive and moving up if that does not work.
Here's how I did a black Cadillac Catera with paint like that.
Wash with quality soap, then clay the entire car. Use M105, masking off each section. Since I didn't have 205, I used Ultimate compound, followed by Swirl X and that removed almost all the swirls. UC is between 105 and 205 in aggressiveness fyi. Then top with a wax like NXT 2.0 with has some fillers to make the paint pop even more. It's a synthetic wax so you will get a few months out of it depending on conditions. Carnuba waxes have great finishes but are made for natural things, so they look amazing but require more upkeep and applications in shorter periods of time. I use Collinite 476 S which is a long term wax which is great for NE since we get pounded by salt. It's a long process to working paint, but the machine takes most of the work out of it. Let me know if you want more info. Ian clearly knows what he is talking about by reading his post.
I was thinking the same thing
Will I hear ya. I've gotten very into detailing and have a G110 and have been trying various products.
Your paint, I'm gonna just be honest, looks hideous. That being said, you can fix that. Here's my advice, take a line of product and use it and use it for a while and only use that so you get accustomed to how it works on that machine. Judging by how bad your paint looks, the M105 and M205 should remove *most* of that swirling/mirco scratches, but again, I'm only seeing pictures. The best methods to doing paint correction are starting least aggressive and moving up if that does not work.
Here's how I did a black Cadillac Catera with paint like that.
Wash with quality soap, then clay the entire car. Use M105, masking off each section. Since I didn't have 205, I used Ultimate compound, followed by Swirl X and that removed almost all the swirls. UC is between 105 and 205 in aggressiveness fyi. Then top with a wax like NXT 2.0 with has some fillers to make the paint pop even more. It's a synthetic wax so you will get a few months out of it depending on conditions. Carnuba waxes have great finishes but are made for natural things, so they look amazing but require more upkeep and applications in shorter periods of time. I use Collinite 476 S which is a long term wax which is great for NE since we get pounded by salt. It's a long process to working paint, but the machine takes most of the work out of it. Let me know if you want more info. Ian clearly knows what he is talking about by reading his post.
Will I hear ya. I've gotten very into detailing and have a G110 and have been trying various products.
Your paint, I'm gonna just be honest, looks hideous. That being said, you can fix that. Here's my advice, take a line of product and use it and use it for a while and only use that so you get accustomed to how it works on that machine. Judging by how bad your paint looks, the M105 and M205 should remove *most* of that swirling/mirco scratches, but again, I'm only seeing pictures. The best methods to doing paint correction are starting least aggressive and moving up if that does not work.
Here's how I did a black Cadillac Catera with paint like that.
Wash with quality soap, then clay the entire car. Use M105, masking off each section. Since I didn't have 205, I used Ultimate compound, followed by Swirl X and that removed almost all the swirls. UC is between 105 and 205 in aggressiveness fyi. Then top with a wax like NXT 2.0 with has some fillers to make the paint pop even more. It's a synthetic wax so you will get a few months out of it depending on conditions. Carnuba waxes have great finishes but are made for natural things, so they look amazing but require more upkeep and applications in shorter periods of time. I use Collinite 476 S which is a long term wax which is great for NE since we get pounded by salt. It's a long process to working paint, but the machine takes most of the work out of it. Let me know if you want more info. Ian clearly knows what he is talking about by reading his post.
WHat do you think of this?
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
I forgot about your hood. That's a perfect piece to start on, it's flat and you can just put it on some saw horses in the garage.
Not seeing your truck in person I'd probably say you could get by just fine with Meguiars 205 polish and maybe just hit the badly swirled or scuffed spots with 105.
As far as waxing, just squirt a line around the pad or make and X across the pad and go to town. Just make sure you're not putting it on to thick. Let it cure and wipe down with a good MF towel, one that's made for buffing and removing wax.
Not seeing your truck in person I'd probably say you could get by just fine with Meguiars 205 polish and maybe just hit the badly swirled or scuffed spots with 105.
As far as waxing, just squirt a line around the pad or make and X across the pad and go to town. Just make sure you're not putting it on to thick. Let it cure and wipe down with a good MF towel, one that's made for buffing and removing wax.
WHat do you think of this?
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/theub...erbasekit.aspx
20% off coupon expires tonight: WINTER.
I think I'm going to get it.
Last edited by 06F150STX; 01-22-2011 at 06:06 PM.