Let's start over......
If you don't delete the cooler you can replace it with one from Bullet Proof Diesel. The EGR coolers are what caused the catastrophic engine failures on the early 6.0's because they would plug up with soot overheat and crack. The EGR delete cost me around $900 including the kit to have it done and my truck runs and performs better with out it. On a stock tune it should pass if they don't do a sniff test on diesels but I would check to be sure. The oil cooler rebuild should be done at the same time you do any EGR work because you have to do it with intake off. I would also start saving for injectors because they are around $250 a piece plus labor to replace and I've done two so far since I've owned the truck.
Oil cooler rebuild $400-$500
Coolant filer $200
Gauges $350 and it really depends on what you choose for gauges.
Bullet Proof EGR Cooler it really depends on when the truck was built.
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/39.htm
It's not cheap to do everything but neither are the repairs when they break. The nice thing is you can do it in stages.
Oil cooler rebuild $400-$500
Coolant filer $200
Gauges $350 and it really depends on what you choose for gauges.
Bullet Proof EGR Cooler it really depends on when the truck was built.
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/39.htm
It's not cheap to do everything but neither are the repairs when they break. The nice thing is you can do it in stages.
If you don't delete the cooler you can replace it with one from Bullet Proof Diesel. The EGR coolers are what caused the catastrophic engine failures on the early 6.0's because they would plug up with soot overheat and crack. The EGR delete cost me around $900 including the kit to have it done and my truck runs and performs better with out it. On a stock tune it should pass if they don't do a sniff test on diesels but I would check to be sure. The oil cooler rebuild should be done at the same time you do any EGR work because you have to do it with intake off. I would also start saving for injectors because they are around $250 a piece plus labor to replace and I've done two so far since I've owned the truck.
Oil cooler rebuild $400-$500
Coolant filer $200
Gauges $350 and it really depends on what you choose for gauges.
Bullet Proof EGR Cooler it really depends on when the truck was built.
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/39.htm
It's not cheap to do everything but neither are the repairs when they break. The nice thing is you can do it in stages.
Oil cooler rebuild $400-$500
Coolant filer $200
Gauges $350 and it really depends on what you choose for gauges.
Bullet Proof EGR Cooler it really depends on when the truck was built.
http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/39.htm
It's not cheap to do everything but neither are the repairs when they break. The nice thing is you can do it in stages.
Heck I'll just come out and say it, I think my transmission is going to fail soon. It makes this weird noise while backing up under load and it has me concerned. In all reality I could just have a built tranny put in and I'll have no more worries. Just don't want it to let go on me in the middle of nowhere. The truck pulls great and shifts fine. I do notice what I feel is a slip yoke that needs lubing. The ujoints are good, me and Pat verified that.
What do you guys suggest I do?
What do you guys suggest I do?
Let me say this, most of the problems with 6.0's that you hear about are owner inflicted and easily avoidable. The 6.0 is a good engine no matter what the Chevy and Dodge boys say but it does cost more to keep reliable, make power, and modify compared the Cummins and Duramax and believe me they have there own quirks and problems. The 6.0 is happiest when it's worked hard and not babied but there is a price to pay in the form of crappy fuel mileage so most people tend baby them and don't get them hot enough to burn the soot out of the turbo and EGR system. I make a point of getting the EGT's on my truck above 1000* at least twice a week to burn the soot out because I do baby my truck most of the time for fuel mileage and it never goes above 2200-2400 RPM most of the time. Since I've done the delete's I have not had one turbo or engine related problem with the truck and my trucks going to roll over to 175,000 miles in the week and half and I expect to make this truck go until at least 325,000 baring the truck isn't totaled, falls apart, or I can't afford to fix it anymore.
I'm not trying to talk you out of or scare your out of buying either truck just do lots of reading and make sure you know what you'er getting into first. Diesels are an entirely different ball game compared to gas engines.
Heck I'll just come out and say it, I think my transmission is going to fail soon. It makes this weird noise while backing up under load and it has me concerned. In all reality I could just have a built tranny put in and I'll have no more worries. Just don't want it to let go on me in the middle of nowhere. The truck pulls great and shifts fine. I do notice what I feel is a slip yoke that needs lubing. The ujoints are good, me and Pat verified that.
What do you guys suggest I do?
What do you guys suggest I do?