ford probe gt people
#2
08-14-2009 | 10:55 PM
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From: Burleson, Texas
#4
08-15-2009 | 09:11 AM
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From: Washington
i got one for sale. screamin deal. $2k all mechanically sound. fresh motor trans and susp/steering.
run away from the auto, the manual is a blast to drive, parts can be hard to come by.
on PT forums, use the sreach button. they're **** about it most days.
you'll also want this guy on your list of websites http://www.gummygrip.com/
i can help w/ most things on the gt after i've been through mine a few times.
run away from the auto, the manual is a blast to drive, parts can be hard to come by.
on PT forums, use the sreach button. they're **** about it most days.
you'll also want this guy on your list of websites http://www.gummygrip.com/
i can help w/ most things on the gt after i've been through mine a few times.
#5
08-15-2009 | 10:43 AM
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From: NW Indiana
#7
08-15-2009 | 10:52 AM
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#10
08-16-2009 | 11:02 PM
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From: HUSKER COUNTRY, USA
Man, I wonder what I'd be driving now...
#11
08-17-2009 | 12:03 AM
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From: Washington
poor oiling system. rod bearing #6 prone to failure from lack of oil, the porting sucks or something to that effect. theres a write up on a 3mm shim under a spring for the oil pump that helps a slight bit.
aside from that high rpms will eat head gaskets. the jugs resonate, because its got pretty sizeable water jackets around the cyldinders. more pronounced with boosted engines.
more often then not, its a toss up between #6 failure or pure overheating.
when rebuilding beware the vacuum lines, theres diagrams online in case. theres a "bitch bolt" that bolts a bracket to the right head and the block... some engineers i tell ya... just drop that bracket and ty it off, conveniently lose the bolts for that one.
aside from that high rpms will eat head gaskets. the jugs resonate, because its got pretty sizeable water jackets around the cyldinders. more pronounced with boosted engines.
more often then not, its a toss up between #6 failure or pure overheating.
when rebuilding beware the vacuum lines, theres diagrams online in case. theres a "bitch bolt" that bolts a bracket to the right head and the block... some engineers i tell ya... just drop that bracket and ty it off, conveniently lose the bolts for that one.
Last edited by Klitch; 08-17-2009 at 12:07 AM.
#12
08-17-2009 | 12:15 AM
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From: NW Indiana
I have the cradle along with engine and trans, struts, brakes, everything all together in the back of the Expy. I will get it out sometime this week... How should I go about this? do you think I should Tear down the oil pan first or just pull the heads off? Should I rebuild or look for another one?
or, should I look for something else to swap in there, what else will work?
or, should I look for something else to swap in there, what else will work?
#13
08-17-2009 | 12:34 AM
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From: Washington
you could go J spec and get a klze import, hp gains stock for stock rumored 30hp max peak difference.
rebuilding you need to find out cause of failure. comp test for lifted heads (check timing too, possible for the timing belt hydraulic tensioner to give and slip timing), address if necessary, you *can* drop the pan and girdle, then visually inspect the lower from there.
the cost of a full rebuild w/ shop labor was 1400 for me. that was bored, aligned and balanced before long block assembly.
all comes down to $ and what you really want. u can typically pick up a klze for 800 or so, then tear it down and clean it. voiding the warranty but depending on ur source, wouldnt matter anyway. the problem with a used engine, even the klze, is you dont know how it was treated before and 90% seem to have been rodded to hell. after you drive the car youll understand why though
rebuilding you need to find out cause of failure. comp test for lifted heads (check timing too, possible for the timing belt hydraulic tensioner to give and slip timing), address if necessary, you *can* drop the pan and girdle, then visually inspect the lower from there.
the cost of a full rebuild w/ shop labor was 1400 for me. that was bored, aligned and balanced before long block assembly.
all comes down to $ and what you really want. u can typically pick up a klze for 800 or so, then tear it down and clean it. voiding the warranty but depending on ur source, wouldnt matter anyway. the problem with a used engine, even the klze, is you dont know how it was treated before and 90% seem to have been rodded to hell. after you drive the car youll understand why though
#14
08-17-2009 | 03:53 AM
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From: NW Indiana
#15
08-17-2009 | 09:15 AM
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From: Washington
same bank? maybe timing but probably lifted head. it was difficult to find a kit online, heres one i remember looking at though. http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-rebuild-kits-ford.html
if its a lifted head, get it decked. check ur block too, dont skimp of fudge, these motors picky about these surfaces.
oh, high quality head gaskets too. now would be the time to do long tube headers if your even considering it
if its a lifted head, get it decked. check ur block too, dont skimp of fudge, these motors picky about these surfaces.
oh, high quality head gaskets too. now would be the time to do long tube headers if your even considering it
Last edited by Klitch; 08-17-2009 at 09:19 AM.