Well Lightstruck under boost that pcv line that goes to the back of the engine at the lower portion of the intake which is on the downstream side of the blower and IC pressurized. The boost goes backwards through that line into the pcv valve(which leaks badly) pressuring up the crankcase and blowing into and out of the driverside "straw" into the boot and throttlebody... On that same line on the passenger side there is a tee that goes up to the upper part of the blower. This under boost is where the blower is recycing...Make sense?

 

Even know I completely screwed up the way I explained the PCV
in this post, believe it or not, I do fully understand it. A PCV is part of a system that allows crankcase pressure to be discharged and usually sucked back into the engine, usually though the manifold, carb, T/B, etc...

I've had old cars with plugged off PCV's and I've seen them pressurize and foam up the engine oil all the way up through the stick and even into a fog horn VAC TANK in an old Ford Econoline I had @ 20yrs ago. Ah the 70's

If there's one thing I know, it's our PCV is nothing more than a coupling, it has no difference of flow in either direction, I still have it hear with me now and I can blow through it like a straw, IN EITHER DIRECTION. This positive one way PCV in this kit, HAS GOT
to help the cause. And since EVERYONE seems to think the problem is pressure being pushed up through the Drivers side and into the Front of the Throttle body, I got to assume a one way valve is good there too ???? No ????
But you are 100% correct that it seems I will still need a Breather and in the end accomlished nothing with this kit, that a Breather with a check valve can't do

I need a big one after this
See ya all later

 

Make sense?--I believe it do!

Thanks JeffsL!---I'm just (today) getting the part about that back line. Heretofore known only as the "whattheheckisit"

Rob,
Your earlier post !!
are you going to start selling $23.95 Oil Flavored Genuine Ford Spliff Holders?

 

Thanks Everyone, especially LightStruck, Jeff, + Sal
I learn more and more about this PCV system every day
BUT THIS WILL END THE THROTTLE BODY SUCKING OIL.
"BUT" Just as your all pointing out, there are cheaper ways to do it. SOME OF THOSE LINKS ARE GREAT, I like the one below, I have every part at work I need "FOR FREE"




The (2) PCV valves in this kit I installed will only allow passage one way, "so they will take care of oil in the T/B, I will however have to put my famous check valve and Breather back on.
I kind of like it anyway.




THANKS AGAIN
I guess this kit isn't a 100% fix, but just maybe a good part of the puzzle.

 

Most of this confussion comes from people reading things to fast and thinking about what they know instead of what they are reading. The new positive shut off PCV is a good thing on the passenger side valve cover, it still lets pressure vent out as it should to keep gaskets from getting pressure on them. I do not agree with Robs pictures saying you need to do anything to the drivers side valve cover.
I have been using a check valve mounted above my old junky PCV since I bought my L and I have never had an oil problem in the intake boot or throttle body area until I tried to run without my check valve.
This is not a fix for oil going from the passenger side valve cover up into the S/C, nobody is trying to say it is. If you do not have a problem with oil in your throttle body area then you do not need this fix at all.
http://www.lightningforums.com/forum...=&threadid=586

 

That is the most intelligent thing I've read from this forum in a while. Thank you, finally someone with enough brains to try and stop the L owners from messing with the PCV system automatically.
I've never seen oil in the intake of my L. It is bone stock and 30k miles. Look before you leap into this project.

 

Ok I will admit that Im not real sure about why oil gets into the TB but since my truck has just recently started smoking on start up,I must be getting some.

But heres what I have to add about the whole PCV disscussion....

Back about 3 or 4 years ago whan i put a blower on my Mustang,the dipstick would blow out every time I went WOT.
Long story short,it was the PCV not closing off during boost and pressurising the block.
I bought a new Ford PCV and then an aftermarket one and I could easly blow {the wrong way}through both of them.

I bought a check valve just like the one on ebay from a turbo Buick place and not only did it completely cure my dipstick problem,I also picked up another pound of boost.

PCVs are supost to be one way valves but they're not in my experiance.

Andy

 

Hooters system works great, he just won't get me one so I had to do this
And your 100% right Redneck, if you don't have a problem, DON'T MESS WITH IT,
Unfortunatly I do have a problem. Running 6lbs of boost and all my other mods has made mine progress to the point where I must react.
Here's what it looked like WITHOUT a Breather and check valve
Lots of oil, WHICH BY THE WAY MAKES YOUR LIGHTNING DETONATE

 

Just to set the record straight.

I am not a supporting vendor on this board nor is this an advertisement to sell any product, this is however a defense of my character and reputation directed towards those who would impugn my intelligence and post innuendos implying that I did not do my homework on this PCV subject and therefore have NO idea of how to solve or at least better this PCV and oil residue problem.

Over many months and on several forum message boards I have read countless postings from those of you who not unlike myself have / had a problem with oil residue showing up in air intake boot and being sprayed all over the throttle body. Yes, my beloved “L” had the same oil problem that many of you are experiencing. I have seen various homemade remedies for this nasty problem posted on the boards such as inserting a large ball bearing into the driver’s side fresh air PCV intake tube just above the cam cover, mounting an unsightly oil / water / air separator on the vehicles firewall and plumbing this into the passenger’s side contaminated air PCV return tube and of course my all time favorite the plastic pipe stuffed with scrubby pads, you know the type…well you do if you have ever washed dishes.

I have spent hours reading, researching, testing and asking questions trying to come up with a viable solution, if for no other reason than to selfishly solve my own oil problem. However since with the help of several good people and one very experienced Lightning tuner, who by the way was a professional aircraft line mechanic for many years, you do realize that airplanes do not take lightly to oil leaks in their engine bays. I came across the idea for a simple kit that stops the majority 99% of this intake boot oil problem with simple over the counter parts. The trick is knowing which parts and this came from hours of reading, testing and a whole box full of different PCV valves and rubber grommets.

I thought that we would share this kit with other Ford Lightning and Harley owners at a modest profit in return for all the time I have invested and efforts that I spent not to mention the extra pieces that were bought for testing along the way. (Can you say box of parts)

Did any of you ever stop to wondered why it is that Ford did not choose a PCV valve that positively shuts off (a one way valve) to by installed as OEM equipment from the factory in their supercharged 5.4 liter motor or why is it that on other supercharged factory vehicles whose manufactures (Ford included) chose an OEM PCV valve for their supercharged engines that does positively close allowing the PCV system to only flow air in the one direction?

I am going to attempt to educate those who are not up to speed on the why’s and how’s of a PCV valve and try to convience the non-believers that I did properly address the PCV problem and arrived at a viable solution for stopping 99% of the oil residue that is vacuumed into the intake boot by a reversal of the airflow in the PCV system of the supercharged 5.4 liter Ford motor.

First the basics of how a PCV valve works, it’s purpose and so forth.

BASICS

The PCV valve was the first emission system component ever to be incorporated into a production automobile. The PVC system sucks in fresh air from the air intake in front of the throttle body after it has been metered by passing through the mass airflow sensor and circulates this air throughout the engines block where it picks up gasoline and oil vapors routing them back into the air intake system behind the throttle body. This vapor-laden air is then mixed with the fresh air entering through the air intake for combustion and is finally burned in the engine’s combustion chambers. (Notice a one-way airflow)

PURPOSE
Although the PCV valve is a simple device, it is designed to reduce the air pressure inside the engine and help redirect this air back to the air intake system via the PCV circuit. Since the return air is contaminated with oil and gasoline fumes it can be very violate and can even affect the operation of the vehicle’s engine. When an engine is running, a small amount of the exploded gas-air mixture forces it’s way past the piston rings in a condition known as blow-by. These fumes would build up pressure in the crankcase and cause trouble if they were not allowed to escape. On older cars, a hollow pipe led from the top back side of the engine and carried the fumes down under the car. This “road draft tube” prevented gasses from building up in the engine but it also allowed the oily fumes to escape into and pollute our atmosphere.

DIFFERENCES
Some systems use a dual PCV setup in which the blow-by gas is sent to the air intake behind the throttle body as well as to the intake manifold. (Sound familiar?) When the dual system is used, it is common for the tube to the air intake to originate at a valve cover or even from the oil filler cap. It is important that the size of the PCV valve be appropriate for the flow of fumes. PCV valves come in many different sizes so research is necessary to find the best cfm PCV valve for the particular application.

PROBLEMS
The PCV valve may fail in either a closed or open position, usually this is due to clogging with oil sludge or dirt. Failing in the open position causes hard starting and rough, low speed running. Failure in the closed position causes buildup of crankcase pressure, which can force engine oil past seals, gaskets and other openings in the crankcase. Most likely this oil will be forced through the rear main seal, or by blowing the dipstick out of the engine’s block. It is important that you never seal off the crankcase completely as a build up of fumes could cause engine problems. This causes the pressure inside the crankcase to increase and can impede oil flow. The combustion gases can also reduce the lubrication effectiveness of the crank case oil. The partial vacuum in the intake manifold will keep the crankcase at a slightly negative pressure, improving the piston ring seal.

RESEARCH
Choosing the proper sized PCV valve should not to be taken lightly, different PCV valves are designed to flow different cubic foot amounts of air over a given period of time and these differences in airflow CFM are calculated for by those who develop the OBD-II software that is uploaded into the vehicles PCM so that the A/F (air-fuel ratio) can be pre-adjusted to avoid precombustion (detionation).

If your running a breather cap on the passenger’s side cam cover it will allow air to take the same path right into system without being metered.
This is not good.
Also since this breather is mounted on the same cam cover as the PCV return line and only inches away this close proximity doesn’t allow for adequate circulation of fresh air through the opposite cylinder head nor throughout the lower crank case. If it did would most vehicle manufacturers have mounted the PCV fresh air intake on the opposite valve cover from the return PCV valve and tube?

Please Note: Because of the lengthof this post it will be continued in the following message frame...SORRY!

 

Please Note: Post is continued from last message frame!
Thank You

I would like to quote the following concerning the oil residue problem and why the ball bearing / open crank case breather is not the best of solutions for this problem and should be avoided especially by those who have a custom tune program where the timing has been advanced to almost the point of detonation as any further leaning of the air/fuel ratio by introducing un-metered air into the intake system from this breather can have potentially devasting results…of course there are those who will argue that the chip can be re-burned to compensate for this introduction of extra un-metered air…to those individuals I would pose the question; How many cubic feet of air can flow through this open breather and into the plenum each minute and at what RPM are you establishing this CFM and by what means are you arriving at this measurement and finally is this solution effective on a vehicle that is used as a daily driver or just on a race only truck where a 7 to 12 second blast is as far as the vehicle is ever run?

1) “The crankcase ventilation airflow is metered since the vent tube is located after the MAF. Because the airflow is metered, it must make it into the intake manifold to assure that the air/fuel ratio is correct. Therefore, if we bypass the PCV system, it must done in such way that no unmetered air can reach the intake manifold, for if it does, the air/fuel ratio will be adversely affected. Similarly, any metered airflow in the PCV system must make it all the way to the intake for the same reason. What this means is, if you bypass the PCV system, it must be bypassed completely, both the inlet and the outlet air transfer paths must be blocked. You just can't block off one and not the other.”

2) “The PCV valve is intended to be opened by intake manifold vacuum (negative pressure), but can also be opened by positive crankcase pressure. Therefore, whenever vacuum is present in the intake manifold, the crankcase pressure will vent into the manifold and the ventilation air is "drawn" into the intake manifold through the PCV valve all the way through the crankcase, vent tube, MAF, and air filter. Furthermore, when positive crankcase pressure is present, it will be vented through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. There's no problem at all under most circumstances, but there can be very significant issues in certain applications, especially if substantial cylinder blow-by is present, if the PCV system is overly effective, or if supercharged.”


To explain why the oil residue is drawn into the intake boot I would like to quote a very simple principle of physics the Bernoulli Principal.

“We can associate a "pressure" with the momentum of the ordered motion of the gas. We call this pressure the dynamic pressure. The form of the dynamic pressure is the density times the square of the velocity divided by two. This form is similar to a kinetic energy term (1/2 mass time velocity squared). The remaining random motion of the molecules still produces a pressure called the static pressure. At the molecular level, there is no distinction between random and ordered motion. Each molecule has a velocity in some direction until it collides with another molecule or the walls of a container and the velocity is then changed. But when you sum up all the velocities of all the molecules you will detect the ordered motion. From a conservation of energy and momentum, the static pressure plus the dynamic pressure is equal to the original total pressure in a flow (assuming we do not add or subtract energy in the flow).”
Now how does this relate simply to what I have just explained?

On the driver’s side PCV intake tube inlet all the air molecules have the same velocity while driving in a normally aspirated mode (not under boost), when you step on the gas pedal the molecules on the passenger’s side go crazy (now we have boost) because of the flow of air going past this vent line coming from the driver’s side cam cover the pressure is lowered causing a reverse flow from the passenger’s side toward the driver’s side and the oil comes along with the air. If you have a check valve (PCV) in place that positively closes then you break this reverse loop and you have no reversed flow of air and thusly no oil in the intake boot. The PCV kit is not intended to stop the oil but in turn is designed to stop the reverse flow of air and with that comes the added advantage of stopping 99% of the oil.

I rest my Case!

 

Well with a closed crankcase(no breather) and a checkball or some other blocking device on the upper passenger side pcv hose along with a Mustang pcv on the passenger side cam cover should do the trick then right?

 

Well I'm not too proud to say...WHOHOOO I'm lost!

 

I am kinda lost too. If you stop the pressure flow going from the pvc on the passenger to the intake, thereby stopping the oil flow as well, what happens to any pressure build up. Does this crankcase pressure then get released on the drivers side(the tube that goes from the cam cover to the intake)? And ifso wont"t oil get pushed back to the intake on the drivers side. There has to be some place to relieve the crankcase pressure

 

1: So, a good "closing" PCV valve on Passenger side should prevent oil vapor- laden air from being vacuumed out on Driver side into intake tube.

2: Then, you still need an oil separator (coalescing filter) on the Passenger side to catch the oil from the oil vapor-laden air being vacuumed/pushed into the back of the supercharger.


??? Yes or no, and why/why not???

 

I picked up one of these kits after I first read the original post (GOOD SERVICE). I left my filter in the system just to see what would happen. I am still getting oil in the bowl.