Ok, so I'm looking at getting a built long block. I'm not out to run 10's and my truck is far more likely to see road course time than to be blasting down the 1/4 mile. However, I dont want to spend thousands of dollars on a motor that's gonna grenade on me a year from now. So here are my requirements, what questions should I be asking the tuners?

1) Must be able to handle +6lbs boost on the stock eaton for over 100,000 miles. I'd prefer not to have to rebuild the engine for 200,000 or more miles.
2) Must be reliable enough to operate as a daily driver and my sole vehicle for the next 50,000 miles.
3) Must not spit plugs.
4) Must be able to to accept a Works or KB blower at a later date.

Some tuners base their builds on used blocks, some (Jim?) seem to indicate they are buying new blocks. Same with the heads. Should I insist on an 8 thread 03 head?

Should I insist on an 03 block?

Are thread inserts safe on a high-HP or high-boost motor?

Is a re-worked old block/head just as good as a new unit?

 

I have not had any problems with my built motor[JDM] and I still run the old style heads and have NOT spit a plug yet.I think there is more involved in the plug spitting than people realize.
As for the miles I would not count on any motor going that long with the rigiors of a road course.As I am sure you know COOLING and OILLING ability is what makes a road course motor live.So don't go cheap there otherwise it will bite you down the road.Stan

 

I look at it this way
I know of NO Built Motors Blowing Up
I know of NO Built Motors Spitting Plugs
And we all know many run 11's
And some even 10's
SO HP DOES NOT SPIT PLUGS.
"PERIOD, END OF STORY"

So the Moral of the story is,
up to VERY RECENT Built Motors have ""all been""
nothing more than THE BLOCK YOU HAVE NOW
With of course all the goodies that make it strong.
AND THE SAME FEW THREADS IN THE HEADS YOU HAVE

We Know Rod's don't make you go faster
We know Heli-Coils don't make you go faster

Cams make you faster
Bigger Valves, differant Pistons, Porting
Balancing and Boring, Springs, and rockers,
these things make you go faster
"""MOST IMPORTANT"""
Turning up the boost makes you go faster

The trick is to keep it all together....


Our Motors need better Rod's Period,
thats all you'll need for your quest IMO.

I'm still waiting for someone to step up to the plate and offer to take OUR MOTOR and put new Rod's, Head Gasket's, Heli-Coils and Studs in it. This should be able to be done for WELL UNDER $5,000.00 INSTALLED with someone making a good profit.

I already have a block with under 10k, I don't need a new one
I already have a Supercharger, I don't need a new one
What I need is a set of Rods to hold more boost
Jim of JDM is proving even 10's are possible with OUR BLOCK
AND OUR SUPERCHARGER
"WE NEED RODS"

No offense to anyone, but $13,000.00 for me to end up with Rod's is a tiny bit out of my reach.
I know you get more, BUT I DON'T NEED MORE. Some Do, don't get me wrong. But all I want is a hi 11 Sec L that will stay together.

 

Whichever route you decide to take on the build motor, be sure not to use race bearings... Also, go for some bronze valve guides. You will be good to go.

 

Why would you want to do that now if you just plan on running 6#s of extra boost? Also, note that the stock Eaton probably won't survive 100k miles overspinning at 14+ lbs. of boost.

I say slap on the 6 lber. now and save your $$$ for later down the road. That is, unless you already have like 70k miles on the motor and blower....

 

78,000 miles on engine and blower. finally spit a plug. Since I pretty much am in for an engine replacement, I figured do it right. But, I dont want to have to go through this ordeal again for a VERY long time. I also want to put on a works 140 if/when I ever pay off the debt for the new motor

 

Nathan, my advice would be to get our lower end package, in .020 over, and use your block and crank. You already have the good crank, and if it needs a clean up then we can just get some .010 over bearings. Our lower end package is the same stuff we run in our truck, so you should be able to handle all the power you can throw at it.

As for the block issue, that's up to you. Personally I'd use your existing block because it's "seasoned", which means it's used, and has been heat cycled. Many engine builders feel that a seasoned block is better because it's not going to distort after it's been bored and the pistons are fitted. And some people only believe in new blocks. Whatever block you use, it will be fine.

As for the heads, well, everyone has their opinions on that one too. MY personal feeling is that the number of threads isn't going to affect the plugs blowing out. From what I've seen, and the people I've talked to, the plug blow out situation stems from two major issues. One is loose plugs from the factory, and two is people using anti-seize on plugs. As a matter of fact, another vendor on this board was having lots of plug blowing problems, and told me they were using anti-seize, and I told them not to do that, just install them dry, and to my knowledge, they have not had any more trouble. This doesn't mean EVERY truck that blows plugs falls into those two categories, but the majority do.

Whatever you decide to do, be it get the internals, or get a built motor, all of the Lightning vendors sell very good parts, and none of the current offerings have failed so far.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey Sal email me gina.corno@motorcargo.com been trying to get a hold of you please respond.

 

Sal, great post man. -Mat-

 

 

Rob 02
I musta been sleepin again.......were did the 13,000.00 dollar price tag come from ??? Whose selling the engine for that ? And what does it include ?
Just tryin to keep up here
Dale

 

Thanks dealerjim, That is exactly what I'm talking about

I have two weeks vacation coming, Hmm Florida, the Kid always wanted to go there

Bad as,
Thats why I said,
"I KNOW YOU GET MORE" BUT I DON'T NEED MORE"
Figure 3-4g's for short Block
@ 2-3g's for new heads
@3-4g's for new blower
a few hundred here and there
maybe a differant cam
maybe a nice set of rollers,
etc
PLUS LABOR

Many have taken this path already,
Many have spend OVER 10 G's
I don't need a 10 sec Lightning.

I simply want mine to hold up and don't have 10g's.
Plus I already have a new Motor and Supercharger

Look what dealerjim's getting for his money
Thats the way, it suppose to be.
Remember I've been doing this for over 25yrs
I know what a rebuild is suppose to cost.
Unfortunatly here where I live, I have no-shops I can trust to do that. I'll probabaly end up doing it myself someday
to save the money, "but rather not".

 

Thats the same problem I ran into here.

 

James also provides a warranty after approving your tune on his dyno. 24k mile I think? His turbo Harley truck has this same package and has over 800rwhp and 1100rwtq!

 

ahhh yes.... james at RR will soon be getting my baby