Wideband A/F Guage???
#3
Check out these crazy Austrailians:
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbo2.htm
They offer pre-built and DIY kits and it looks like pretty good quality.
Finding the sensor is supposedly a real pain in the butt.
Coldie
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbo2.htm
They offer pre-built and DIY kits and it looks like pretty good quality.
Finding the sensor is supposedly a real pain in the butt.
Coldie
#6
#7
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#8
The gauges you install from autometer are basically nothing more than a good light show. They look pretty and that's about it.
A real A/F meter will cost you several thousand dollars.
I have one of these from http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm Nordskog
and at night time it's a nice light show.
A real A/F meter will cost you several thousand dollars.
I have one of these from http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm Nordskog
and at night time it's a nice light show.
Last edited by jarmstro; 04-29-2003 at 07:34 AM.
#10
The air fuel from the dyno matched the fjo display. Does that mean it is accurate? I don't know. The dyno could of had a bad sensor.
It lets me know if the truck is running too lean. The numbers correspond to the egt gauge I have so I assume it is correct. Why spend thousands on a Horriba, when you can get one of these for less than a $1K?
I have had mine in the truck for about 4K miles now with no problems. It updates very quickly and I think it was worth the price I paid. The install was easy. I installed it under the driver seat and am using the bung for the driver side rear O2 sensor as the mount for the sensor.
It lets me know if the truck is running too lean. The numbers correspond to the egt gauge I have so I assume it is correct. Why spend thousands on a Horriba, when you can get one of these for less than a $1K?
I have had mine in the truck for about 4K miles now with no problems. It updates very quickly and I think it was worth the price I paid. The install was easy. I installed it under the driver seat and am using the bung for the driver side rear O2 sensor as the mount for the sensor.
#11
#12
I have left the sensor installed all of the time, because anytime I drive the truck I'm racing. I don't think the replacement sensor costs too much. Maybe a couple of hundred at most. It is a 5 wire sensor from a 92-95 honda civic 1.5L vtec. I think the part # is 36531-PO7-003, or Ekland 05791, or Bosch 13246, or parts bin # C5010-75044, or NTK LIHI 1403. (I have a lot of #'s written down in my notes and am not sure where all the #'s came from.)
You can check out www.diy-wb.com for some info.
I have run maybe 30 gallons of leaded C16 through my truck and all three of my O2 sensors seem to be working fine including the 5 wire wide band sensor.
I don't have pcv system, egr valve, rear O2 sensors, and I have gutted high flow catalytic converters. I passed the emissions testing last week no problems (they use OBDII testing.)
You can check out www.diy-wb.com for some info.
I have run maybe 30 gallons of leaded C16 through my truck and all three of my O2 sensors seem to be working fine including the 5 wire wide band sensor.
I don't have pcv system, egr valve, rear O2 sensors, and I have gutted high flow catalytic converters. I passed the emissions testing last week no problems (they use OBDII testing.)
#14
Rear?
You shouldn't use the rear mount. If you are after the cats, you won't get as accurate of a measurement.
Also: Those wacky Austrailian guys are coming out with a new version that accounts for/reports exhaust back pressure and uses a more common sensor.
The Bosch sensor for the Civics is getting hard to find/expensive.
Coldie
Also: Those wacky Austrailian guys are coming out with a new version that accounts for/reports exhaust back pressure and uses a more common sensor.
The Bosch sensor for the Civics is getting hard to find/expensive.
Coldie