Man that is not right. get a new boost gauge and check your belt. You definatley need a dyno tune though. That is the way to go. You cant be too safe with your motor. I think your crazy for running it without a tune anyway. Get a good tune and it should straighten itself out. Good luck. if i were you i would stay out of the boost till i got a tune. Just my advice.

Vinny

 

Speeder asked if i had done a boost bypass. NO

FlyingMofo replied about the pcm/shiftpoints. No chip or reflash, therefore no change to electronics systems. Valve body modification shouldnt effect pcm i would think.

Vinnie thinks i am nuts... I did a post on this the other day and got some replies (can i drive the truck to the dyno without a chip in it) Reason is i was trying to do the install myself (i was bored i guess, or just trying to save the approx $1200 the dealer wanted to do the install) Anyway, I ended up talking to a lot of people about it, even people who "sell parts".The info i got back from most people was not to worry about it. Some said to keep it out of boost, some said to bury the boost guage. Well, junkie that i am i buried the guage. I did not notice any sounds (detonation etc..) Buried it again, still no problem. As a matter of fact, when i ran the truck cold, i used to ge the old "marbles in a can sound" Well this was gone (of course i think this had something to do with the Chip that i had been running, and removed when i installed these mods. So i am not really "afraid it's going to blow".

I swear it acts like its dumping boost.

**** had asked earlier about what type of plugs i was running. I think he may have just been wondering if it was a typo (autolite) I dont know how many guys are running them, i dont read a lot of mods in peoples sig's when they post. But i have heard denso and ngk a lot around here. I gapped my plugs around . 28 (autolite racing)

Maybye i fried a sensor when i was running the chip? Or maybye my type of computer has recognized the extra boost and is dumping it. I thought it only dumped when the throttle was wot the slammed shut (burnout box etc)

 

With as much boost as your running I would do the boost bypass to keep from dumping, for plugs, im not sure about the ones you have in your truck, I have a 4# pulley on my truck and im using Denso IT20 plugs.

Larry.

 

I think youre about .010 too tight on the plug gap!! I dont think it will have any effect on making boost but it can make the motor feel flat. Also are they a colder plug than stock? They should be

 

If those plugs are not a resistor type, your burning up your coil packs. Coil packs do not like non-resistor plugs at all. You are also getting a particial boost dump due to no chip and the pcm is shutting down the excess. Just unplug the boost dump solenoid for a test and see if the boost is still down.

 

Im with "speeder" here....Dump those plugs and spend the $350 on the chip with the correct tune and some Denso's...This is your truck man, dont get cheap with it!!! I dont understand while you would take the chance and a $5000 mistake, when a few hundred should solve your problems and reduce the chance of putting a few viewing windows on your block!

As far as the detonation--you may not be able to hear it all the time if the blower is whining.

Good luck bro-

 

I have a chip allready.. really i have no intentions of leaving the truck like it is. I am putting it on the dyno tuesday at 7 am, and we will tune + reburn the chip i have. I also have a set of NGK i could throw in, or, maybye buy another brand ($100 and a couple hours of work right?)

The plugs i am running are the autolite Racing plugs (ar93) I was told to gap them at .28 NOT .40. Apparently engine runs great at this setting + plugs.

I was really just trying to get to the bottom of the boost dumping issue. I guess it needs a tune to be "right" I did not think the pcm would pick up on the extra boost pressure and "dump " it.

I only drove the truck the one time. It is parked untill tuesday when i can put it on the dyno. I was supposed to go on a SVTOA cruise sunday but i guess i will have to cancel. There is no way i can keep it out of boost for that long of a drive, especially in the mountains etc..

 

I changed my plugs last night. It took 30 minutes. NGK plugs should only cost about $1.69 each from autozone.

NGK TR6 part # 4177

Try gapping them at around .035 or something.

Ask the guy who did your chip what he recommends, but that is what a lot of guys run.

BTW, sounds like you have a gauge problem, or a leak in a vacuum line/fitting.

 

Thanks easterisland.. Im going to go check the vacum lines etc. I may just change the plugs.. looks like i may have gotten some bad info. I wonder if i will get optimum dyno results etc with the plugs gapped at .28



Can anyone explain the major differences??

 

Factory gap is .042 due to the 8 lbs of so called boost. For every pound of boost increase you should close the plugs .001. This is to protect the plug spark from being blown out with the increased cylinder pressures. .028 is way too narrow of a gap and will cause loss of power due to weak spark.

 

You guys are lucky that you can run TR6's with 6#'s of boost. Our fuel out here destroys them and im stuck running the much colder BR7EF variety.

I hope you get everything sorted out before the dyno and hell while your at it, you may as well change that fuel filter.. Take every precaution to ensure a good tune. Good luck bro and post back when you get back from the dyno trip.

 

I stuck in some BR7EFs (@.028 gap) Friday morning and they seem to work pretty good with 22 psi and 93 octane.

 

Ok.. but if you look under the hood it says to gap at .40? (Factory Specs)

Hey,Im bored...

 

Factory gap on my 2000 is .042" - .046"

I run .035" with a 5# pulley. I use to run .040" and it ran great but at .035" the idle is smoother. Go figure.

 

Where are you guys getting the factory settings from???