the problems has to do just as much with the rods, as it does with the block flexing. With such a long stroke in the 5.4's, that is where all the torque is picked up on these engines. The problems with the rods snapping has just as much to do with the "flexation of the block" under wot. Some blocks have been knows to flex up to or more than a 1/2 "!!!!!!!

Putting performance rods in strengthes the rods to be more tollerable to the block flexing, but doesn't fix the problem 100%, even though failure is less likely. The new blocks are cast with more support and actually look a bit thinker. I've held pieces of sidewall of an 01 block, and the lawn mower engines i work on have thinker walls then our trucks!!!!

I know JDM is building all their engines with the new block castings, and looking at my 2000 and my father's 03, you can see the difference just above where the oil pan bolts on.

The fact of the matter is ford built these engine to put out 380hp, 450lb torque.......and they do that.......anything we add......we are on our own because ford hasn't tested and approved any of these modifications.

Hope this helps.

 

Actually talking to SVT they told me the knock sensor is not even hooked up.

Edit: I was asking them questions about it as I wanted to know if that could cause my timing to get retarded and they said they couldn't get it to work as the Supercharger was making to much noise.

 

There IS no knock sensor enabled on our trucks ...

 

Man that auto tap scan tool looks awesome. That has some real potential. Does anyone run this. Do you need a labtop in your car also. Just curious. If anyone has it, shoot me an email. I would love to hear the details. VinnyC2002@optonline.net

Vinny

 

Yup, there is NO knock sensor period.

 

The mod motors are tooo noisey to use the knock sensors. Most people who have built 96-98 4V's leave them unplugged.

 

Wow that is crazy that there is no knock sensor. No wonder so many motors are going BOOOM. Gotta be really careful when you turn up the boost.

I called today to have my current Autotap upgraded to Support Ford as I have the GM version for my LS1. They told me I need to buy another harness

Autotap works awesome, you can log an entire run at the track and then graph it into Excel and see whats going on and where you need to make changes. Not to mention it helps troubleshoot non-performance issues down the line. It looks at everything. Well worth the money if you work on the truck yourself.

At least this way I can see what the timing is and watch the 02 sensors for Rich/Lean conditions in weather changes.

Anyone know what kind of timing they run from the factory and what the chip guys are changing it too when you add pulleys?

 

Just don't go with a stupid tune and no ghetto 8# pulleys and you'll be fine. And if you spray, keep the shot small and use your head.

Our motors are stronger than most think. It can take the power most bolt-ons (with the exception of nitrous) can dish out. Just play it safe, get your tune straight and you'll be fine.

 

cyntaxx,

You said it!!!!!!!!! once again you make sense!!! nice to see someone with a simple straight forward comment on this, THANKYOU!!

 

Where did you get this information from??

--Joe

 

If your block flexed 1/2" you'd be picking up the pieces off the street.

 

Can you define a stupid tune?

What are the parameters? Nobody seems to know but the guys doing the chips.

How do you know if you have a stupid tune or a good tune? (I am not trying to be sarcastic just looking for the real answer)

An 8lb pulley might be fine (although probably spinning the blower way out of its range), as long as its tuned correctly which might mean you need to run higher octane fuel than what it available but the problem seems to be we can't tell if its detonating or not.

As an example, lets say you get the truck setup with an 11:0 A/F which should be pretty safe right say your running X timing on 94 octane and you assume everything is ok.

Now what happens if you let someone borrow your truck and they put 87 Octane in it? The A/F ratio is still safe but the truck is going to probably detonate like crazy. See my point?

At some power level you are going to need to increase the octane to make more power. Pumpgas only goes so far and running an 8lb pulley with high timing is probably beyond the limits for pumpgas but the motor is probably safe to take it as long as it doesn't detonate. (Increase Octane)

I dunno, just talking out loud

 

TTA89,,

My exp. with this has been a good one, I run a 6lb lower w/ other mods and a flip chip. 5k with these and I drive it all year unless we have snow....

You make a great point regarding the fuel being put in our vehicles but.... would you let that happen? (in your L or your TA) I have "modded" quite a few L's with different tuner supplied chips, pullies ect....(I am NOT a tuner) but I do have the equipment to run the vehicles on the road and look at timing,a/f ratio's ect. and have found if you let the tuner know what you really want, (a driver, with a "race" side as example) and follow guidlines of the tuner (i.e. octane) these engines seem to be fine.

I feel many of us tell the tuner we want too much for what we are really going to do,, so the tuner does as the "customer" states and the trouble starts. Or we say we didn't get "enough" from the chip etc. and we want more ect. ect......

I remember tuning the "blowers" of the old days and recall compensating with less timing ,larger carbs, electric fans, lower compression ect.. and ending up with a vehicle that did not want to idle in traffic or the electrical system was strained, or the engine ran too hot or too cool ect. ect.....

The basics still apply today but the tuners have the ability and experience to fine tune the variables to a user friendly end.. but WE still need to use our heads (and ears) to monitor whats going on with our vehicles.... Sorry I got rambling....

 

Do a search. Next meet we have I'll bring my EASE software.

 

Laptop or PDA for in-car. There's also one from www.nology.com