Went to the track in San Antonio, Tx last night and ran the L in the 1/4 mile for the first time (damn humbling experience). Already run the 1/8th mile and had some problems there too. Times last night at the 1/4 mile were consistantly 15.33 @ around 94 mph. A ricer owner walked up to me and said "15.33 Huh, (laughed out loud) I thought lightnings were supposed to be fast...yours is all show and no go (then laughter erupts from his buddies)!

Of course their were about 10 of them standing around...so I just told him that my truck isn't running right...even though I wanted to kick the sh!% out of him. "Well of course not" he said as he and his little buddies snickered.

I was told he is a regular at the track....so instead of resulting to violence which is stupid and illegal...I will find the problem, repair it and hand him his azz at the track.

Sorry about that guys/gals. Just had to vent a bit.

I have been searching through the threads to see if anyone else has had the same problems as myself and low&behold I found one. "Master of Pain" explains exactly what I am experiencing. And his explanation is to the T. No power out of the hole (couldn't spin the tires if I wanted) but at about 20 mph its a monster!

Does anyone remember the solution to this problem?

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...Boost+Actuator

I was going to see if a mod would repair it but after reading the thread above, I think I better find the problem first.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Todd

 

Are you doing a long burnout before staging? If so, you may be getting boost dump. Disconnect the boost bypass solenoid, and this problem should be solved. Ill try to find the pic to explain this.

-Mike

 

Txoutlaw
""IF"" the truck is running good and there's no problem with it,
My Guess is you Dumped Boost
Hit the Rev Limiter
Felt the Torque Reduction
and Prob didn't launch it right.

Is you truck Stock ???
If it is, you should still run 13's the way it is

Here's the First thing you do immediatly

The Second is a K+B Drop in Air Filter
Those two things will help a lot
If you gonna Mod it Then go for aftermarket filter-chip-n-pulley

How are you launching ???? What was your 60ft time ????
Was it hot out ????? Did you let it cool down ???

here's how I do it

Put your rear tire pressure to @22-25lbs
Go around water box
Stop and Do a nice long LOW RPM Burnout
Inch up, and stage
OVERDRIVE OFF
Shifter in 3rd
Foot off the Gas
Foot on the Brake
When it's time to go
punch that sucker through the flo

This is called flashing the Convertor and it's important to do
on a stock set up

 

Thanks fellas! I already have the boost dump bypass and I think I hooked it up correctly. Here is a link to a pic of the boost dump bypass I did on my truck.

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/showow...=1&album=20903

I have also cut a good size hole in the bottom of the air box and installed a K&N filter. These are the only mods I have. Everything else is bone stock.

The temp was 87degrees F and the humidity was about 60%. Don't know the elevation of the track but it's not much because San Antonio is only 140 miles from the coast.

When I ran the 1/8th a while back I was going through the water box and doing a pretty good burnout. I was running 10's in the 1/8th so I knew something wasn't right.

This time I went around the water box and just cleaned the tires off pretty good. Brought the RPM's up to 1000 and launched. Reaction time was a 6.1something. I had an experienced race buddy watching for tire spin. He said there was no tire spin at all and I could tell there wasn't any either. Here is the thing...my truck will not spin the tires until I get up to 2400 RPM's holding the brake.

My first run was a 15.4something @ approx 91 mph.

IMO the blower is taking to long to build boost. It's acting like a turbocharger.

My buddy told me to try to launch with the RPM's at about 2000. My next run I brought the RPM's up to 2000 and launched. Reaction time was a 6.4 something (don't really think that makes a difference on the ET though).

I launched @ 2000 RPM's and it netted me a 15.33 @ approx 94 MPH. About 2 seconds off of the line the boost jumped up very quick. I had my buddy watch again and he did not see any tire spin plus I didn't feel any.

So launching @ 2000 rpm's shaved roughly 1/10th off. I think if any other L tried that they would be spinning before the tree ever lit up.

So I am wondering if maybe the Boost Actuator needs to be adjusted because the boost isn't coming in until about 2400 RPM's.

My understanding of a supercharger is the boost is suppose to be instant and that sure isn't happening with my truck.

I think I will adjust the boost actuator and see it makes a difference.

I also have a dyno lined up in 2 weeks. It will be interesting to see the test data.

Any other info you guys/gals can think of is greatly appreciated.

Again Thanks,
Todd

 

Something is definately not right with your times. Mine will spin off the line every time but it still ran an 8.54 @83.64 with a 2.02 60' with a chip and filter only on F1's.

 

Txoutlaw: what are the 60 foot times from your timeslips?

 

Ya man something is not right.
In General if you have a stock convertor,
flashing the convertor will net your best results

I never touch the pedal til it's time to go
I leave on a dead idle, and every entire run I have ever made
has had 1.6 or 1.7 on slicks
and 1.8 and 1.9 on worn out stock F-1's
My all time worse 60 ever with the L is a 2.0 60ft on F-1's

SOMETHING IS WRONG

If you really insist on adjusting the actuator
here's the How To on it


Boost Actuator Modification ……....…………………
The boost actuator is located on the driver's side of the intake close to the firewall. There are (2)
10mm bolts that hold it in place. One you can see in the pic and the other is on the backside of
the actuator closest to the firewall. Pay
attention to the slots location in reference to
the bolts so you will know where you started.
Loosen bolts and raise the actuator up until
you see the LEVER raise up off of the STOP.
Lower it back down until the LEVER just
touches the STOP then tighten bolts.
Now, this is the way it was explained , but
found that set this close, the boost gauge
would rise to almost "0" while cruising at 80.
Go back and readjust so that at 80 there is no
needle movement unless you barely move the
throttle (just barely). This setting is probably
halfway between the stock setting and the just
touching setting. First thing to notice is the
needle jumping immediately to 10lbs and climbing from there. Stock, should jump to 9.5lbs and
climb. Total boost should increase by a 1/2lb to 1/4lb more. Should run a tick quicker at the
track. This adjustment is worth a small amount of speed and it's free.
Information was found on various internet Lightning forums .. The Internet is a wonderful tool

This came from
http://www.mdsonline.ca/f150intro.htm
You can Thank Built Fast Ford, it's his site and an awesome site at that

 

Just took a look at the actuator and good god man I'm about half scared to touch it. The thought of adjusting that thing is intimidating. That area sure is tight! The actuator is setting crooked to...don't know if it's suppose to be vertically straight or not. The top is angled towards the front of the truck. Does that sound right to you fellas? If I can get pic that illustrates the position of the actuator I'll post it so you can take a look at it.

I know it's the truck I just don't know what else could be the problem. Have you guys heard of anyone having a problem with the blower? The thing is from 20 mph the doggone thing will dang near break your neck. So I am at a loss.

My 60 ft times last night were:

2.55
2.64
2.43 - 2 times
2.50

Pretty sad.

Yea Rob that's what I was saying. If any of you guys tried to launch like I was doing last night it would look like a forest fire from the tire smoke.

WOW! Here is something that just hit me. I'm curious if the dealer adjusted the actuator so you couldn't smoke the tires on the test drives. I wanted to test drive a black L but the salesman said that they only use the red L for test drives. No reason was given and I didn't think anything at the time but that would make sense.

What do yall think about that possiblity, am I reaching?

Damn after looking at that actuator I don't want any part of it! But I think I have to try or I am gonna go nuts wondering. I will keep after this problem until it's solved. That way anyone else that experiences this will have a quick solution.

Your sure right Rob, Built Ford Fast does have an awesome site! This board is great as well. Everytime I need help you guys are quick with the tips and recommendations.

Mucho thanks to all of you, Built Ford Fast and F150online. I will try to post the pic of the actuator in a little while.

Thanks Again,
Todd

 

Those 60 foot times are contributing to your horrible 1/4 times. Get those down to 2.0's and 2.1's and your 1/4 times should drop drastically.

-Mike

 

Todd, if you weren't spinning then you have a definate problem,
no way a stock Lightning will only have 2.4 / 2.5 / 2.6 (60 ft times)

Either you were spinning, or you have something wrong.
But you mentioned a friend watching and saying it wasn't spinning. Also I see you had bad 1/8 mile times too ???
SO HEAR'S WHAT I'M THINKING. No a Dealer will not adjust the Acuater, HOWEVER they will re-flash your computer and take performance out. You mentioned they only test drive a certain Lightning, just maybe thats their game ????? Big IF, but it would explain everything.

Check under the hood for a dealer reprogram sticker. Dealers "reflash" your Ford's computer when an update has been issued from Ford, sometimes without your knowledge. If your computer has been reflashed, there is usually a sticker on the top of your radiator with a series of letters and numbers (example: F82D-41A145-BG).

Rumors are certain Dealerships will sometimes reflash them and take performance out. It's worth checking.

BTW
Does the truck runs great otherwise ???

 

Rob,
That was a good one, I never thought about that. There are no stickers and no numbers resembling the ones in your post.

I am positive there is no spin. That's my problem I have no take off power. I can't spin the tires at all unless I apply the brake really hard.

I am thinking is has to be the actuator and here is why. It takes about 2-3 seconds for my L to build boost. So I am 60-70 ft from the starting line before I see any boost. If I could take those 2 seconds off of my time then I would be about right. But heck I don't know.

Here are some picks of the actuator. It's hard to tell that's it's crooked but if you look close you can see it. Adjusting the actuator is my last option. If that isnt the problem I am going to take it back to the dealer.

http://www.fordtruckworld.com/showow...=1&album=20903


http://www.fordtruckworld.com/showow...=1&album=20903


http://www.fordtruckworld.com/showow...=1&album=20903


http://www.fordtruckworld.com/showow...=1&album=20903

Thanks Everyone,
Todd

Edit: Ohh yea Rob she runs perfect other than the take off. from about 20 mph on she is a bad mamajamma!

 

To put it bluntly, there is no way you brought it up to 2000 rpm and launched unless you have an aftermarket convertor.

My convertor is kind of tight and I can't get past 1400 rpm without it overriding the brakes. DealerJim said the most he can get is 1500-1600 rpm.

Tell us what really happened.

P.S. Your boost actuator looks ****eyed in those pics.

There are instructions on how to adjust it on my website.

 

YOU NEED ONE OF YOUR LIGHTNING BROTHERS TO ADJUST THAT THANG FOR YA! If you lived in NY I would do it for you in like 5 minutes.

One test you can do quickly is to blip the throttle with your hand while the engine is running and watch the boost actuator. The arm should move almost instantly. This arm moves and closes off the air bypass passage and forces all the air (Boost) into the manifold. let us know what happens .....

 

Hmmmmm...come here and ask for help and get called a liar in the process!

Just to make sure I wasn't imagining things last night, I just fired her up and did a little power-brake in the driveway. Held 1900 for a couple a secs...then 2000..she started to spin. So with a tacky surface and the tires warmed up 2000 sounds about right.

HEY I AINT MAKING THIS UP! My freaking L is sick and I am trying to find out why! I don't have a reason in the world to lie! I don't care what dealer Jim says, my L did 2000 RPM's with a stock converter at the track and I just did 1900 in my driveway! As far as overriding the brakes, I don't have a clue what you are talking about. You hold the brake hard enough and you can burn the tires off of it but the front tires aint going nowhere until you get off the brake! It's too bad I don't live closer or I would come show you and Dealer Jim!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SO TO PUT IT BLUNTLY I AM TELLING YOU WHAT REALLY HAPPENED!











Hey LightningTruck Thanks for the tip. Man I wish I was closer to because it's really frustrating. I really need someone that knows L's to take her for a spin. IMO they would immediately notice something is definitely wrong. I will let you know how far I had to move the throttle before the arm moves.

Thanks Again,
Todd

 

I would take it to the dealer and ask. i am pretty much stock adn i cant mash the gas form a dead stop or it burns them as long as i want. I have to feather it off the line or i leave nothing but black streaks. If a dealer will help you try that. They prob wont if you ask them why you cant smoke tires... but i would say take it to a tuner if there is one near you or a sweet mechanic and have them look at it. Something is definately wrong.

Vinny