Plugs are jammed up..anything to do?
#1
Plugs are jammed up..anything to do?
My tuner I went to had problems with getting my plugs out. They were put in by a gorrilla as he said and didn't want to risk one breaking off. This was about 5,500 miles ago. Anyway they could have loosened up some? If they haven't is there anyway to get them lose? Maybe some kind of penetrating lubricant? Ford charges 300 for the job .
#2
Nate this is a dangerous situation,
There are many people that needed new heads due to this problem. It seems they sometimes become one with the head and when you try and get them out, you end up breaking one off, or worse, stripping one (or more) in the head.
I've even read post and have seen pictures of them taken a piece of the head out with them
This is why I ALWAYS use Anti-Seeze even know everyone say's don't.
Are they Stock Plugs ???
If they are, I'd bring it to Ford and let them deal with it ???
Good luck Bro, lets hope they're just in there tight and not bonded into the heads
There are many people that needed new heads due to this problem. It seems they sometimes become one with the head and when you try and get them out, you end up breaking one off, or worse, stripping one (or more) in the head.
I've even read post and have seen pictures of them taken a piece of the head out with them
This is why I ALWAYS use Anti-Seeze even know everyone say's don't.
Are they Stock Plugs ???
If they are, I'd bring it to Ford and let them deal with it ???
Good luck Bro, lets hope they're just in there tight and not bonded into the heads
#3
Sounds like a dealer job to me....but if you want to try.......try this.
Normally, you always should change plugs on a COLD engine. With your problem though, I would get the engine up to temp to get the aluminum head to 'expand' as much as it can. Then remove the coil packs as quickly as you can, spray some penetrant oil around the plug base, and use a new or properly fitted 5/8" plug socket to break them loose.
Assuming you get them all out witout damaging the head threads, let the engine cool completely. Use a high-temp, copper-based anti-seize sparingly on the plug threads(don't let ANY get on the electrodes). Then install them down snug and then 1/16th of a TURN more ! I installed mine this way and they have been in 30,000 miles with no problems.
Dan
Normally, you always should change plugs on a COLD engine. With your problem though, I would get the engine up to temp to get the aluminum head to 'expand' as much as it can. Then remove the coil packs as quickly as you can, spray some penetrant oil around the plug base, and use a new or properly fitted 5/8" plug socket to break them loose.
Assuming you get them all out witout damaging the head threads, let the engine cool completely. Use a high-temp, copper-based anti-seize sparingly on the plug threads(don't let ANY get on the electrodes). Then install them down snug and then 1/16th of a TURN more ! I installed mine this way and they have been in 30,000 miles with no problems.
Dan
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#9
Originally posted by NateTrun2
so you think they would get mad if I said "I was trying to change my plugs, but they won't come out?- I think you neeed to do this under warranty" . I mean, what do I do? And yes, they are stock. And do you think they would mind if I gave them my ngk's to put in instead of motorcrap?
so you think they would get mad if I said "I was trying to change my plugs, but they won't come out?- I think you neeed to do this under warranty" . I mean, what do I do? And yes, they are stock. And do you think they would mind if I gave them my ngk's to put in instead of motorcrap?
For instance, if you suddenly had a problem that required them pulling the plugs to diagnose, I guess it is up to them to do it.
#11
#13
Originally posted by LIGHTNINROD
Sounds like a dealer job to me....but if you want to try.......try this.
Normally, you always should change plugs on a COLD engine. With your problem though, I would get the engine up to temp to get the aluminum head to 'expand' as much as it can. Then remove the coil packs as quickly as you can, spray some penetrant oil around the plug base, and use a new or properly fitted 5/8" plug socket to break them loose.
Assuming you get them all out witout damaging the head threads, let the engine cool completely. Use a high-temp, copper-based anti-seize sparingly on the plug threads(don't let ANY get on the electrodes). Then install them down snug and then 1/16th of a TURN more ! I installed mine this way and they have been in 30,000 miles with no problems.
Dan
Sounds like a dealer job to me....but if you want to try.......try this.
Normally, you always should change plugs on a COLD engine. With your problem though, I would get the engine up to temp to get the aluminum head to 'expand' as much as it can. Then remove the coil packs as quickly as you can, spray some penetrant oil around the plug base, and use a new or properly fitted 5/8" plug socket to break them loose.
Assuming you get them all out witout damaging the head threads, let the engine cool completely. Use a high-temp, copper-based anti-seize sparingly on the plug threads(don't let ANY get on the electrodes). Then install them down snug and then 1/16th of a TURN more ! I installed mine this way and they have been in 30,000 miles with no problems.
Dan
curious to know, what year heads do you have? I'm asuming that they are 99' to 02'.
#15
Originally posted by NateTrun2
Thanx to cpeapea and Andrew.... My plugs came lose with no damage! They said there were only 2 more to go, but they had to stop and go home for the night .
Thanx to cpeapea and Andrew.... My plugs came lose with no damage! They said there were only 2 more to go, but they had to stop and go home for the night .
AND WHERE MY THANKS
Who said there were only two left
Who went home for the night
Who did the plugs
How'd they get them out
IF YOU COULDN'T