How to Gut a CAT
#1
#3
#4
Have you ever seen inside one of these trucks cat? there is no way in hell getting them hot then rising them with water would make the stuff inside fallout. no chance in hell, i mena it took me like 5 mines to hallow just one of mine out, those things are packed tight, i ended up just puting some pipe back up instead of the hallow cats.
#7
i think the heating up really hot and then dousing in ice cold water will destroy the cats, but it won't gut em. It's just a way to generate an excuse to replace em. Your not legally allowed to do anything to your cats for something like 5 years, i believe thats a federal law, unless they require service. So if you pull into a shop and ask for hi flo cats they won't do it if they are legit. However, if you have damage to em, then yes they are supposed to take care of it.
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#10
Originally posted by Fordsrus
Do we really need all 4 cats. Can we get by with two working cats. I have the smog test here in Kentucky Just wanted to free up the exhaust without spending the big $$$$
Ryan
Do we really need all 4 cats. Can we get by with two working cats. I have the smog test here in Kentucky Just wanted to free up the exhaust without spending the big $$$$
Ryan
I just have one on each side. Magnaflows highflow cats.
My stock cats where really poor quality. The darned things crapped out at 1200 miles....
Rocks
#11
Fordsrus,
You're not going to pass emissions with just two. Believe me when I say that. If Ford could have gotten away with it they would have to save cost to the vehicle....
When I was in Powertrain, I worked with the cat manuafacturers. You are not going to break up the Bricks, (Engineering term) we used for them, with getting the cats hot.
If you do, you're only going to melt the metal in the wash-coat on the bricks and then you will have no flow.
The bricks are ceramic with insultation and seals on each side of every brick. Best way to GUT them correctly is to drop the exhaust and cut the cans open to extract the internals.
Once you have done that you put a piece of stainless straight- pipe in the can. You do not want to have the cans hollow..This will change the backpressure Flow-charicteristics of the design and you will lose hp. It's not the same as running straight-pipes.
Just cut the cans, gut the internals and weld in a straight piece of pipe and weld the shields back on to give it the stock appearence. If you try to brake up the ceramic inside the cans you risk sucking ceramic parts up in the cyliners if you didn't get it all.
Thor
You're not going to pass emissions with just two. Believe me when I say that. If Ford could have gotten away with it they would have to save cost to the vehicle....
When I was in Powertrain, I worked with the cat manuafacturers. You are not going to break up the Bricks, (Engineering term) we used for them, with getting the cats hot.
If you do, you're only going to melt the metal in the wash-coat on the bricks and then you will have no flow.
The bricks are ceramic with insultation and seals on each side of every brick. Best way to GUT them correctly is to drop the exhaust and cut the cans open to extract the internals.
Once you have done that you put a piece of stainless straight- pipe in the can. You do not want to have the cans hollow..This will change the backpressure Flow-charicteristics of the design and you will lose hp. It's not the same as running straight-pipes.
Just cut the cans, gut the internals and weld in a straight piece of pipe and weld the shields back on to give it the stock appearence. If you try to brake up the ceramic inside the cans you risk sucking ceramic parts up in the cyliners if you didn't get it all.
Thor
#12
#14
Suavy,
I used to work in Dearborn at the engineering center. Experimantal garage at DPG. I was a Engineering Tech in Lincoln LS and V-8 Mustang. I never made it out to Romeo Engine plant. Did pleanty of testing there at MPG.
Myself and a few others were layed-off a few months ago. Ford and their revitalization plan....
grinomyte,
I never heard of that tactic. You can try it. If you do get the ceramic bricks to break, how will you get the matting and seals out. You would need to drop the hot end exhaust and make a tool to hook and extract it all.
Unless you know for sure you have it all. I wouldn't start that engine back up. Not to mention what they could do to the muffler if loose parts were to get in it...
My suggestion to anyone wanting to do this. Drop the exhaust, cut and gut the cans. Weld in a straight pipe and weld the cans back up. Simple and the dealer wouldn't be able to tell if you went in for warranty work on something else on the truck.
I have not experienced an OBDII code doing this on EFI cars or trucks yet.
I used to work in Dearborn at the engineering center. Experimantal garage at DPG. I was a Engineering Tech in Lincoln LS and V-8 Mustang. I never made it out to Romeo Engine plant. Did pleanty of testing there at MPG.
Myself and a few others were layed-off a few months ago. Ford and their revitalization plan....
grinomyte,
I never heard of that tactic. You can try it. If you do get the ceramic bricks to break, how will you get the matting and seals out. You would need to drop the hot end exhaust and make a tool to hook and extract it all.
Unless you know for sure you have it all. I wouldn't start that engine back up. Not to mention what they could do to the muffler if loose parts were to get in it...
My suggestion to anyone wanting to do this. Drop the exhaust, cut and gut the cans. Weld in a straight pipe and weld the cans back up. Simple and the dealer wouldn't be able to tell if you went in for warranty work on something else on the truck.
I have not experienced an OBDII code doing this on EFI cars or trucks yet.