"HOW TO" Swap your S/C, ""please help with info""
#1
"HOW TO" Swap your S/C, ""please help with info""
I know alot of US know how, but I have recieved many e-mails
on it, and like alot of you, I GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY
anywhere I can help. Some don't know, and I promised them I would help, so here it is.
PLEASE CORRECT ME, add Pic's , sugestions, tricks, etc...
You need:
Screw Driver to remove Clamps holding Rubber Boot
from Throttle Body to MAF. I left my Maf attached the the JLP box and only removed the rubber boot.
(of course remove the 3 lines attached to the boot)
3/8" drive rachet, extention and 10MM socket to remove the Throttle Body and Gas Pedal Bracket.
1/4" drive rachet, universal, extention and 8mm socket to remove the manifold bolts.
3/8" drive rachet, universal, extention and 13mm regular AND DEEP socket to remove S/C Bolts.
(deep socket needed for 4 bolts, they have a thread off the bolt head w/ a nut that holds a bracket)
AND THATS IT
NOTES:
The back super charger bolt ON BOTH sides is a bitch, but you can and will get to them.
On the pass side I found the deep socket straight onto the rachet is the easiest.
On the Drivers side a simple Rachet Extention Universal and 13 MM Deep Socket will work fine.
The back Manifold bolts are also bitchy and quite tiny, you'll sneak in there with a 1/4" Rachet Extention Universal and 8mm socket.
Pass Side
There's a couple of vacum lines you pull off the back lower part of the S/C, NOTE WHERE THEY GO
Also a coule of Larger Hoses you'll pull of the back upper part of S/C, AGAIN NOTE WHERE THEY GO
I found pulling a few electrical plugs helped getting some wires out of the way too.
Drivers Side
You have the PCV line to pull off the Upper Manifold (where everyone puts a Seperator)
Also another hose to pull off (has two wires coming out of it), thats toward the front upper part
The IAC Plug must be pulled (Idle Adjustment Control)
The TPS Plug must be pulled (Throttle Position Sensor), thats on the Throttle Body
It's pretty straight foward, no hidden tricks, just 4 bolts holding the throttle body,
1 holding the gas pedal bracket,
6 holding the Manifold,
4 nuts holding brackets on the S/C,
and then the 8 bolts holding the Eaton on
As for Torque Spec's ""IT MUST BE DONE IN TWO STAGES""
Torque the S/C to 18 ** lbs (I stand corrected, THANKS DAN)
Then 33 Ft lbs
EDIT
The Sequence is from the middle out criss crossing the usual way (there's a total of 8 bolts)
You criss cross the middle 4 first (2 ea side) then jump to the front 2 (1 ea side), then the rear 2 (1 ea side).
THANKS FOR THE PIC GATOR
EDITED PICTURE
BTW Gator if I screwed something up by torquing to 18 LB's instead of what is should be
--> 18 Inch, I HOPE YOU HAVE A GOOD LAWYER hehehehehehehehehe.........
Rather than repeat ever bolt, hose, wire, line, etc...
I'll now give basic steps
EDIT
Thanks Slick
Here's a link for when I did mine, piece of cake job
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...leaning+iac%2A
Step one, Off with the Throttle Body
(old Pic)
Step two, Off with the Manifold
EDIT
Yes that Pass Side Rear Bolt is a bitch, excellent point EZ, the trick does seem to be taken it off AND ON with it dangling
EDIT
on it, and like alot of you, I GIVE BACK TO THE COMMUNITY
anywhere I can help. Some don't know, and I promised them I would help, so here it is.
PLEASE CORRECT ME, add Pic's , sugestions, tricks, etc...
You need:
Screw Driver to remove Clamps holding Rubber Boot
from Throttle Body to MAF. I left my Maf attached the the JLP box and only removed the rubber boot.
(of course remove the 3 lines attached to the boot)
3/8" drive rachet, extention and 10MM socket to remove the Throttle Body and Gas Pedal Bracket.
1/4" drive rachet, universal, extention and 8mm socket to remove the manifold bolts.
3/8" drive rachet, universal, extention and 13mm regular AND DEEP socket to remove S/C Bolts.
(deep socket needed for 4 bolts, they have a thread off the bolt head w/ a nut that holds a bracket)
AND THATS IT
NOTES:
The back super charger bolt ON BOTH sides is a bitch, but you can and will get to them.
On the pass side I found the deep socket straight onto the rachet is the easiest.
On the Drivers side a simple Rachet Extention Universal and 13 MM Deep Socket will work fine.
The back Manifold bolts are also bitchy and quite tiny, you'll sneak in there with a 1/4" Rachet Extention Universal and 8mm socket.
Pass Side
There's a couple of vacum lines you pull off the back lower part of the S/C, NOTE WHERE THEY GO
Also a coule of Larger Hoses you'll pull of the back upper part of S/C, AGAIN NOTE WHERE THEY GO
I found pulling a few electrical plugs helped getting some wires out of the way too.
Drivers Side
You have the PCV line to pull off the Upper Manifold (where everyone puts a Seperator)
Also another hose to pull off (has two wires coming out of it), thats toward the front upper part
The IAC Plug must be pulled (Idle Adjustment Control)
The TPS Plug must be pulled (Throttle Position Sensor), thats on the Throttle Body
It's pretty straight foward, no hidden tricks, just 4 bolts holding the throttle body,
1 holding the gas pedal bracket,
6 holding the Manifold,
4 nuts holding brackets on the S/C,
and then the 8 bolts holding the Eaton on
As for Torque Spec's ""IT MUST BE DONE IN TWO STAGES""
Torque the S/C to 18 ** lbs (I stand corrected, THANKS DAN)
Then 33 Ft lbs
EDIT
Originally posted by Struck in AZ
The torque sequences for the supercharger are incorrect. Step 1 is 18 IN.-lbs. and step 2 is the 33 FT.-lbs. This came directly out of the Ford Service Manual that I have.
I've also got a list of part numbers for most of the nuts, bolts and gaskets invovled with a supercharger swap (which I have to credit to the folks over at AZLOC).
This may also come in handy...
Supercharger Removal and Installation
Dan
The torque sequences for the supercharger are incorrect. Step 1 is 18 IN.-lbs. and step 2 is the 33 FT.-lbs. This came directly out of the Ford Service Manual that I have.
I've also got a list of part numbers for most of the nuts, bolts and gaskets invovled with a supercharger swap (which I have to credit to the folks over at AZLOC).
This may also come in handy...
Supercharger Removal and Installation
Dan
You criss cross the middle 4 first (2 ea side) then jump to the front 2 (1 ea side), then the rear 2 (1 ea side).
THANKS FOR THE PIC GATOR
EDITED PICTURE
BTW Gator if I screwed something up by torquing to 18 LB's instead of what is should be
--> 18 Inch, I HOPE YOU HAVE A GOOD LAWYER hehehehehehehehehe.........
Rather than repeat ever bolt, hose, wire, line, etc...
I'll now give basic steps
EDIT
Originally posted by SLICK0478
DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE S/C BELT FIRST .
Also this is a good time to clean the IAC,
Slick
DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE S/C BELT FIRST .
Also this is a good time to clean the IAC,
Slick
Here's a link for when I did mine, piece of cake job
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...leaning+iac%2A
Step one, Off with the Throttle Body
(old Pic)
Step two, Off with the Manifold
EDIT
Originally posted by EZGZ
I might add that if you are going to just go in and say, clean your intercooler or have a look at the rotors you don't have to remove that top manifold.
If you need to drain your intercooler there is a valve on the lower left side of the intercooler. Lay on your back and you can't miss it.
Only trick I can think of is that you need to leave the bolt in on the back passenger side when you lift everything off and make sure it is in there dangling when you put it back together.
Lastly, it would be a great time to do any spark plug work while you have all that stuff out of the way.
I might add that if you are going to just go in and say, clean your intercooler or have a look at the rotors you don't have to remove that top manifold.
If you need to drain your intercooler there is a valve on the lower left side of the intercooler. Lay on your back and you can't miss it.
Only trick I can think of is that you need to leave the bolt in on the back passenger side when you lift everything off and make sure it is in there dangling when you put it back together.
Lastly, it would be a great time to do any spark plug work while you have all that stuff out of the way.
EDIT
Originally posted by Bad as L
I leave the plenum and throttle body on the blower and pull it all at the same time, its easier to R&R the upper manifold when the blower is off and it is also a nice handle to grab onto when pulling the blower.
I leave the plenum and throttle body on the blower and pull it all at the same time, its easier to R&R the upper manifold when the blower is off and it is also a nice handle to grab onto when pulling the blower.
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; 02-29-2004 at 07:00 AM.
#3
#5
The stains on mine are from BEFORE I installed the
Lightning Enterprise PCV fix
Look at this close up and you'll notice it was dry dry dry....
Mine was so clean at 12K, I didn't even touch it
Clean if needed, like I said, I didn't
Put it back together
Here's my Wasp
The only reason I got to see the inside of mine is cause
I swapped Rotors
Lightning Enterprise PCV fix
Look at this close up and you'll notice it was dry dry dry....
Mine was so clean at 12K, I didn't even touch it
Clean if needed, like I said, I didn't
Put it back together
Here's my Wasp
The only reason I got to see the inside of mine is cause
I swapped Rotors
#7
Like I said, Wes does AMAZING WORK
I love the results, you've all heard me boast about the gains
UNBELIVABLE DIFF
This pic, is BEFORE I swapped rotors
Had the inlet of the S/C ported too
Here's some great Links with more pic's from others
and some good info
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
Here's a step by step and INSTRUCTIONS on it
http://www.azloc.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=774
I love the results, you've all heard me boast about the gains
UNBELIVABLE DIFF
This pic, is BEFORE I swapped rotors
Had the inlet of the S/C ported too
Here's some great Links with more pic's from others
and some good info
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
Here's a step by step and INSTRUCTIONS on it
http://www.azloc.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=774
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; 02-28-2004 at 01:02 PM.
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#8
#9
Rob02...
Nice post man, but the torque sequences for the supercharger are incorrect. Step 1 is 18 IN.-lbs. and step 2 is the 33 FT.-lbs. This came directly out of the Ford Service Manual that I have... I've converted the section to a Word doc if anyone would like to host it (hint, hint Doug) and I've also got a list of part numbers for most of the nuts, bolts and gaskets invovled with a supercharger swap (which I have to credit to the folks over at AZLOC).
This may also come in handy...
Supercharger Removal and Installation
Dan
Nice post man, but the torque sequences for the supercharger are incorrect. Step 1 is 18 IN.-lbs. and step 2 is the 33 FT.-lbs. This came directly out of the Ford Service Manual that I have... I've converted the section to a Word doc if anyone would like to host it (hint, hint Doug) and I've also got a list of part numbers for most of the nuts, bolts and gaskets invovled with a supercharger swap (which I have to credit to the folks over at AZLOC).
This may also come in handy...
Supercharger Removal and Installation
Dan
#12
#13
#14
Good post Rob
But lets not take for granted DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE S/C BELT FIRST . I know these are obvious but he you never know good post
Also you didn't have to clean the I/C (did you ever) I think it is only a couple more bolts and 2 hoses
Also what time frame did it take you 2-3 hrs
Thanks
Slick
But lets not take for granted DISCONNECT BATTERY AND REMOVE S/C BELT FIRST . I know these are obvious but he you never know good post
Also you didn't have to clean the I/C (did you ever) I think it is only a couple more bolts and 2 hoses
Also what time frame did it take you 2-3 hrs
Thanks
Slick
#15
Thanks Ronbo, you are the best. I have everything i should need now to install the Magnum Powers Tues and then do an immediate Dyno. I even went ahead and got the supercharger and intercooler gaskets just in case (some haven't replaced them but if they are in bad shape, well....... See ya at the track sometime this year.