Pure black oil = bad?
#16
Originally posted by captainoblivious
I knew a guy that use to change oil filter every couple thousand miles, then he'd would just add new oil to bring it back to the proper level. He'd do an actually oil change every few 10k miles.
The engine was still kicking strong at over 160k miles on it.
Not that I would I recommend anyone does that.
I knew a guy that use to change oil filter every couple thousand miles, then he'd would just add new oil to bring it back to the proper level. He'd do an actually oil change every few 10k miles.
The engine was still kicking strong at over 160k miles on it.
Not that I would I recommend anyone does that.
#17
I noticed my L and my wifes Expedition both have black oil. I do not know if it is due to blow by or what. I also had a VW Siroco with 250,000 miles and the oil came out about the same color that it went in. This 5.4 motor runs dirty. My 911 has the same dirty oil but it is air cooled ... lots of expansion on warm up. I change my oiul at 3,000 miles and get great engine life in everything but the L. New engine at 45,000, blown plug.
#18
#19
#20
Seriously folks,
Anyone remember the Franz oil filter?
http://www.utterpower.com/oil.htm
Nothing like toilet paper to clean up a mess
Amsoil is another company that uses a bypass oil filter system but I have it on my Diesel Dodge and the oil is still very dark.
http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/by-pass.shtml
Using the bypass system it takes aproxamately 20 minutes of highway driving to clean all of the oil one time.
Being in the air conditioning industry I can tell bypass systems do work well. We use the same principal on open condenser water systems as well as closed loop systems.
The problem with full flow systems is that it can be restrictive and there are limitations on size.
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How many of you folks know that much of the time your oil is not being filtered at all... ?
Your average oil filter has two valves in it.
One is a check valve to keep the oil filter from draining when the engine is not running. (Our engine has the filter in the vertical position)
The other is to let the oil flow at higher pressure such as High RPM and cold start ups.
Anyone remember the Franz oil filter?
http://www.utterpower.com/oil.htm
Nothing like toilet paper to clean up a mess
Amsoil is another company that uses a bypass oil filter system but I have it on my Diesel Dodge and the oil is still very dark.
http://www.bestsyntheticoil.com/amsoil/by-pass.shtml
Using the bypass system it takes aproxamately 20 minutes of highway driving to clean all of the oil one time.
Being in the air conditioning industry I can tell bypass systems do work well. We use the same principal on open condenser water systems as well as closed loop systems.
The problem with full flow systems is that it can be restrictive and there are limitations on size.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How many of you folks know that much of the time your oil is not being filtered at all... ?
Your average oil filter has two valves in it.
One is a check valve to keep the oil filter from draining when the engine is not running. (Our engine has the filter in the vertical position)
The other is to let the oil flow at higher pressure such as High RPM and cold start ups.
#21
Originally posted by player19
hmm-- well thanks for all the replys--- I guess that there isn't a big concern. I will try the DEIMATT sand method , but since i don't live by the beach i will substitute kitty litter....
hmm-- well thanks for all the replys--- I guess that there isn't a big concern. I will try the DEIMATT sand method , but since i don't live by the beach i will substitute kitty litter....
#24
#25
I'm definitely not an expert on oil, but I do have an observation to share. I have a 1965 Mustang, 289 cubic inch V8 with Holley 4 barrel carb, 3 speed auto. I wrenched on that thing throughout high school, and I'm still workin' on it 15 years later.
Anyway, a few years ago, I rebuilt the carb, and initially jetted it a little too rich (had no choke). I drove it like that for a while, but the poor gas mileage and smell of gas vapors was getting old. When I changed the oil out, it was black, I mean pitch black. Still felt slippery though. Before I did the carb rebuild, the oil was darker at oil change time than when new, but you could still see through it.
So I re-jetted the carb to leaner settings, and drove it around for a few thousand miles. At oil change time, the oil was darker than new, but not nearly as dark as the oil that was used during the richly-jetted settings. And up to now, the oil has never been too "dark".
So my guess was that with the rich gas mixture, during normal blow-by, the excess gas was diluting the oil, and the PCV system wasn't enough to extract the excess gas vapors from the crankcase.
So, could darker-than-normal oil in a fuel injected engine be due to an engine that's mapped too rich? Anyone know?
Anyway, a few years ago, I rebuilt the carb, and initially jetted it a little too rich (had no choke). I drove it like that for a while, but the poor gas mileage and smell of gas vapors was getting old. When I changed the oil out, it was black, I mean pitch black. Still felt slippery though. Before I did the carb rebuild, the oil was darker at oil change time than when new, but you could still see through it.
So I re-jetted the carb to leaner settings, and drove it around for a few thousand miles. At oil change time, the oil was darker than new, but not nearly as dark as the oil that was used during the richly-jetted settings. And up to now, the oil has never been too "dark".
So my guess was that with the rich gas mixture, during normal blow-by, the excess gas was diluting the oil, and the PCV system wasn't enough to extract the excess gas vapors from the crankcase.
So, could darker-than-normal oil in a fuel injected engine be due to an engine that's mapped too rich? Anyone know?
#26
Originally posted by DEIMATT
I remember reading recently the best way to test it is to take some of the oil and rub it all over yourself and roll in sand.
if the sand sticks then its still okay
if it doesnt then you need to change it.
I think i got that info on a SRT-10 board or something!!???
I remember reading recently the best way to test it is to take some of the oil and rub it all over yourself and roll in sand.
if the sand sticks then its still okay
if it doesnt then you need to change it.
I think i got that info on a SRT-10 board or something!!???
#27
Re: Pure black oil = bad?
Originally posted by player19
I went to change my oil after 4k and the oil was pure black! I have never seen it this black before on a car---- does this mean there are problems? Anything I need to check?
I went to change my oil after 4k and the oil was pure black! I have never seen it this black before on a car---- does this mean there are problems? Anything I need to check?
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Th...k%20Oil%20Myth
Last edited by temp1; 03-28-2004 at 04:49 PM.
#30
Originally posted by TiresWinRaces
I can't understand why anyone would hesitate to change the oil every 3 to 5k miles. It's so cheap in terms of vehicle ownership, and provides a lot of peace of mind (at least to me).
I can't understand why anyone would hesitate to change the oil every 3 to 5k miles. It's so cheap in terms of vehicle ownership, and provides a lot of peace of mind (at least to me).