to catch a z06 I need?
#16
04-13-2004, 06:48 PM
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Originally posted by WideOpen03SVT
OK......TO BEAT A Z06, HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED. EVERYTHING SAL FROM PSP HAS ON HIS LIGHTNING OR EVERYTHING JOHNNY LIGHTNING HAS ON HIS TRUCK. THEN YOU SHOULD BE OK AS LONG AS THE Z06 IS STOCK. IF YOU RUN UP ON A Z06 WITH A BLOWER OR ONE WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF BOLT ONS, THEN IT WOULD BE TIME TO GET YOURSELF SOMETHING OTHER THAN A LIGHTNING. LIKE MAYBE A FORD GT WITH TWIN TURBOS. ZO6'S ARE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE COMPETITION AND I AGREE WITH THE GUY WHO SAID "MOST OF YOU WHO CLAIM TO HAVE BEATEN A Z06 HAVE NEVER BEAT ONE". THEY RUN 117 MPH IN THE QUARTER
.........AND THAT'S RIGHT OFF THE SHOWROOM. GOOD LUCK!
OK......TO BEAT A Z06, HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED. EVERYTHING SAL FROM PSP HAS ON HIS LIGHTNING OR EVERYTHING JOHNNY LIGHTNING HAS ON HIS TRUCK. THEN YOU SHOULD BE OK AS LONG AS THE Z06 IS STOCK. IF YOU RUN UP ON A Z06 WITH A BLOWER OR ONE WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF BOLT ONS, THEN IT WOULD BE TIME TO GET YOURSELF SOMETHING OTHER THAN A LIGHTNING. LIKE MAYBE A FORD GT WITH TWIN TURBOS. ZO6'S ARE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE COMPETITION AND I AGREE WITH THE GUY WHO SAID "MOST OF YOU WHO CLAIM TO HAVE BEATEN A Z06 HAVE NEVER BEAT ONE". THEY RUN 117 MPH IN THE QUARTER
.........AND THAT'S RIGHT OFF THE SHOWROOM. GOOD LUCK!
I have seen some that barely trap 114........granted the dude can't drive but if he gets beat by me or anyone else.....He still is getting beat
and they are not NEARLY impossible(sp?) competition......
#17
04-13-2004, 06:53 PM
Originally posted by WideOpen03SVT
OK......TO BEAT A Z06, HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED. EVERYTHING SAL FROM PSP HAS ON HIS LIGHTNING OR EVERYTHING JOHNNY LIGHTNING HAS ON HIS TRUCK. THEN YOU SHOULD BE OK AS LONG AS THE Z06 IS STOCK. IF YOU RUN UP ON A Z06 WITH A BLOWER OR ONE WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF BOLT ONS, THEN IT WOULD BE TIME TO GET YOURSELF SOMETHING OTHER THAN A LIGHTNING. LIKE MAYBE A FORD GT WITH TWIN TURBOS. ZO6'S ARE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE COMPETITION AND I AGREE WITH THE GUY WHO SAID "MOST OF YOU WHO CLAIM TO HAVE BEATEN A Z06 HAVE NEVER BEAT ONE". THEY RUN 117 MPH IN THE QUARTER
.........AND THAT'S RIGHT OFF THE SHOWROOM. GOOD LUCK!
OK......TO BEAT A Z06, HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED. EVERYTHING SAL FROM PSP HAS ON HIS LIGHTNING OR EVERYTHING JOHNNY LIGHTNING HAS ON HIS TRUCK. THEN YOU SHOULD BE OK AS LONG AS THE Z06 IS STOCK. IF YOU RUN UP ON A Z06 WITH A BLOWER OR ONE WITH A WHOLE BUNCH OF BOLT ONS, THEN IT WOULD BE TIME TO GET YOURSELF SOMETHING OTHER THAN A LIGHTNING. LIKE MAYBE A FORD GT WITH TWIN TURBOS. ZO6'S ARE NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE COMPETITION AND I AGREE WITH THE GUY WHO SAID "MOST OF YOU WHO CLAIM TO HAVE BEATEN A Z06 HAVE NEVER BEAT ONE". THEY RUN 117 MPH IN THE QUARTER
.........AND THAT'S RIGHT OFF THE SHOWROOM. GOOD LUCK!
Gt with twin turbos? Why not just a cobra and a couple pulleys.
Last edited by grinomyte; 04-13-2004 at 06:57 PM.
#19
04-13-2004, 07:35 PM
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heres my recommendation and someone might have already posted it.
1. Valve body OR line mod valve
2. Nitrous system - 100 - 120 shot (i would spend a little money and do it right with a window swith or controller; WOT switch not so bad either.
3. boost by pass
4. traction bars of some sort would be nice too
5. tune
6. 12inch power stack filter
7. NGK's TR6's or Denso IT-22's )i prefer ngk , stronger and cheaper IMO)
all that should run you 2,000 to 2,500 dollars (give or take). slicks aren't needed unless on track and drive shaft loop not needed unless on slicks. I wouldn't buy anything else. You will beat a zo6 then. I think people on stock bottom ends should go one way or the other. Nitrous - or - pulley's and port jobs. Think nitrous is more cost effective when installed and used properly. just my oppinion
edit: oh, and learn how to drive the beast.
1. Valve body OR line mod valve
2. Nitrous system - 100 - 120 shot (i would spend a little money and do it right with a window swith or controller; WOT switch not so bad either.
3. boost by pass
4. traction bars of some sort would be nice too
5. tune
6. 12inch power stack filter
7. NGK's TR6's or Denso IT-22's )i prefer ngk , stronger and cheaper IMO)
all that should run you 2,000 to 2,500 dollars (give or take). slicks aren't needed unless on track and drive shaft loop not needed unless on slicks. I wouldn't buy anything else. You will beat a zo6 then. I think people on stock bottom ends should go one way or the other. Nitrous - or - pulley's and port jobs. Think nitrous is more cost effective when installed and used properly. just my oppinion
edit: oh, and learn how to drive the beast.
Last edited by NateTrun2; 04-13-2004 at 09:27 PM.
#20
04-13-2004, 09:25 PM
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Originally posted by Blown5Pnt4
Now I'm just assuming that you want to not just catch but beat this ZO6. What I would Reccomend is the following.
1. JLP or PSP Ram Air Kit
2. 4# or 6# Lower Pulley
3. Ported Eaton
4. Long Tube Headers and Full Exhaust
5. Traction Bars
6. Slicks
7. Driveshaft Loop(cheap safety item, I reccomend PSP's)
8. VERY VERY GOOD Dyno Tune/Chip
9. Denso IT-22 or NGK BR-7 Spark Plugs
10. Factory Tech or LFP Transmission Valve Body
That List as long as you get it dyno'd to make sure your not lean should put that pesky ZO6 in your rear-view mirror, as long as you can drive.
That said.....in my red truck I did run 12.7 with nothing but a 6#, Cat-Back Exhaust, JLP Ram Air, LFP Valve Body, and good Predator Tune from Tommy @ Outrageous Performance. That was on Nitto Drag Radials on my winter program(less timing for the colder air), with no traction bars or suspension mods at all. It just comes down to what you wanna spend, and how safe you wanna beand how well you can drive your truck. The above list, some may say isnt safe for the stock block, but as long as you get a dyno to see if your lean and that everything, you should be pretty safe. Just make sure to use a very experienced tuner.
Josh
Now I'm just assuming that you want to not just catch but beat this ZO6. What I would Reccomend is the following.
1. JLP or PSP Ram Air Kit
2. 4# or 6# Lower Pulley
3. Ported Eaton
4. Long Tube Headers and Full Exhaust
5. Traction Bars
6. Slicks
7. Driveshaft Loop(cheap safety item, I reccomend PSP's)
8. VERY VERY GOOD Dyno Tune/Chip
9. Denso IT-22 or NGK BR-7 Spark Plugs
10. Factory Tech or LFP Transmission Valve Body
That List as long as you get it dyno'd to make sure your not lean should put that pesky ZO6 in your rear-view mirror, as long as you can drive.
That said.....in my red truck I did run 12.7 with nothing but a 6#, Cat-Back Exhaust, JLP Ram Air, LFP Valve Body, and good Predator Tune from Tommy @ Outrageous Performance. That was on Nitto Drag Radials on my winter program(less timing for the colder air), with no traction bars or suspension mods at all. It just comes down to what you wanna spend, and how safe you wanna beand how well you can drive your truck. The above list, some may say isnt safe for the stock block, but as long as you get a dyno to see if your lean and that everything, you should be pretty safe. Just make sure to use a very experienced tuner.
Josh
#21
04-13-2004, 09:30 PM
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Originally posted by NateTrun2
heres my recommendation and someone might have already posted it.
1. Valve body OR line mod valve
2. Nitrous system - 100 - 120 shot (i would spend a little money and do it right with a window swith or controller; WOT switch not so bad either.
3. boost by pass
4. traction bars of some sort would be nice too
5. tune
6. 12inch power stack filter
7. NGK's TR6's or Denso IT-22's )i prefer ngk , stronger and cheaper IMO)
all that should run you 2,000 to 2,500 dollars (give or take). slicks aren't needed unless on track and drive shaft loop not needed unless on slicks. I wouldn't buy anything else. You will beat a zo6 then. I think people on stock bottom ends should go one way or the other. Nitrous - or - pulley's and port jobs. Think nitrous is more cost effective when installed and used properly. just my oppinion
edit: oh, and learn how to drive the beast.
heres my recommendation and someone might have already posted it.
1. Valve body OR line mod valve
2. Nitrous system - 100 - 120 shot (i would spend a little money and do it right with a window swith or controller; WOT switch not so bad either.
3. boost by pass
4. traction bars of some sort would be nice too
5. tune
6. 12inch power stack filter
7. NGK's TR6's or Denso IT-22's )i prefer ngk , stronger and cheaper IMO)
all that should run you 2,000 to 2,500 dollars (give or take). slicks aren't needed unless on track and drive shaft loop not needed unless on slicks. I wouldn't buy anything else. You will beat a zo6 then. I think people on stock bottom ends should go one way or the other. Nitrous - or - pulley's and port jobs. Think nitrous is more cost effective when installed and used properly. just my oppinion
edit: oh, and learn how to drive the beast.
#22
04-13-2004, 10:03 PM
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1. Nitrous kit (pick your brand) = $450-$550
- blown down tube = $30
- purge kit = $100
- Assortment of jets = $20 - whatever
- remote bottle opener (for kicks)= $150 - $200
- progressive controller (to make it nice) = $300 - $580 (don't know how much window switches are, probably cheaper)
2. He will probably buy the precious crap Predator tuner everyone raves about for some unknown reason. = $450 . If not lets not forget about reburns and cost of more predator tunes if he does not get them free
3. Overpriced filter kit everyone sale = $100
4. boost by pass = $free (but he might get sucked into the grand lightning market where there is a price on a small piece of vacuum tube that does the same thing as unplig a wire.)
5. traction bars = $250 - $400
6. F/T valve body $ $150 - $225 or line mod valve = $20
7. NGK's = $15-$20 , Denso = $100
Lets not even go into how much this stuff costs to install if he doesn't know how to do himself. Things add up don't they. I garuntee you this the best cost effective solution to long tubes on stock heads that don't gain crap especially for the price tag of cost and install.
- blown down tube = $30
- purge kit = $100
- Assortment of jets = $20 - whatever
- remote bottle opener (for kicks)= $150 - $200
- progressive controller (to make it nice) = $300 - $580 (don't know how much window switches are, probably cheaper)
2. He will probably buy the precious crap Predator tuner everyone raves about for some unknown reason. = $450 . If not lets not forget about reburns and cost of more predator tunes if he does not get them free
3. Overpriced filter kit everyone sale = $100
4. boost by pass = $free (but he might get sucked into the grand lightning market where there is a price on a small piece of vacuum tube that does the same thing as unplig a wire.)
5. traction bars = $250 - $400
6. F/T valve body $ $150 - $225 or line mod valve = $20
7. NGK's = $15-$20 , Denso = $100
Lets not even go into how much this stuff costs to install if he doesn't know how to do himself. Things add up don't they. I garuntee you this the best cost effective solution to long tubes on stock heads that don't gain crap especially for the price tag of cost and install.
#23
04-13-2004, 10:16 PM
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#24
04-13-2004, 10:58 PM
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#25
04-13-2004, 11:04 PM
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Wow I hope you didn't pay prices like these...
Originally posted by NateTrun2
1. Nitrous kit (pick your brand) = $450-$550
- blown down tube = $30
- purge kit = $100
- Assortment of jets = $20 - whatever
- remote bottle opener (for kicks)= $150 - $200
- progressive controller (to make it nice) = $300 - $580 (don't know how much window switches are, probably cheaper)
2. He will probably buy the precious crap Predator tuner everyone raves about for some unknown reason. = $450 . If not lets not forget about reburns and cost of more predator tunes if he does not get them free
3. Overpriced filter kit everyone sale = $100
4. boost by pass = $free (but he might get sucked into the grand lightning market where there is a price on a small piece of vacuum tube that does the same thing as unplig a wire.)
5. traction bars = $250 - $400
6. F/T valve body $ $150 - $225 or line mod valve = $20
7. NGK's = $15-$20 , Denso = $100
Lets not even go into how much this stuff costs to install if he doesn't know how to do himself. Things add up don't they. I garuntee you this the best cost effective solution to long tubes on stock heads that don't gain crap especially for the price tag of cost and install.
1. Nitrous kit (pick your brand) = $450-$550
- blown down tube = $30
- purge kit = $100
- Assortment of jets = $20 - whatever
- remote bottle opener (for kicks)= $150 - $200
- progressive controller (to make it nice) = $300 - $580 (don't know how much window switches are, probably cheaper)
2. He will probably buy the precious crap Predator tuner everyone raves about for some unknown reason. = $450 . If not lets not forget about reburns and cost of more predator tunes if he does not get them free
3. Overpriced filter kit everyone sale = $100
4. boost by pass = $free (but he might get sucked into the grand lightning market where there is a price on a small piece of vacuum tube that does the same thing as unplig a wire.)
5. traction bars = $250 - $400
6. F/T valve body $ $150 - $225 or line mod valve = $20
7. NGK's = $15-$20 , Denso = $100
Lets not even go into how much this stuff costs to install if he doesn't know how to do himself. Things add up don't they. I garuntee you this the best cost effective solution to long tubes on stock heads that don't gain crap especially for the price tag of cost and install.
#27
04-13-2004, 11:12 PM
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#28
04-14-2004, 12:13 AM
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Originally posted by FLBigDog
Wow I hope you didn't pay prices like these...
Wow I hope you didn't pay prices like these...
#29
04-14-2004, 12:38 AM
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Originally posted by NateTrun2
hehe, no. Most my parts are used or discounted club prices. My nitrous kit is basically pieced together by someone before me and someone before him I think. I usually get people that can turn a wrench good and wants to make some money to do my installs. But those are close ball park retail prices for that stuff. Hell, ford chrages 400 bucks to get those plugs out.
hehe, no. Most my parts are used or discounted club prices. My nitrous kit is basically pieced together by someone before me and someone before him I think. I usually get people that can turn a wrench good and wants to make some money to do my installs. But those are close ball park retail prices for that stuff. Hell, ford chrages 400 bucks to get those plugs out.
#30
04-14-2004, 01:13 AM
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