There are many trucks running around Southern California with K/Bs and stock motors. It makes a great combo! Just makes sure it has the proper tune and you will be good to go. On a good track with race gas and slicks, you will have an 11 second truck. Skip

 

That is a great question, I was asking myself the same last year when I bought my '03 L. As mentioned above I do believe that if you have the intention to eventually building up your L with a complete lower etc then KB is the choice. The hp and torque applications at high boost 22lbs plus are very impressive and will definitely get you a very competitive Gen II.

My intention last year was exactly that. I am running with stock internals (no built lower etc) I have 6000 miles on my L, the tune is the key and many would ask me if I have such a conservative tune then why did I spend the coin for KB (again it is all about where eventually you will be with your engine growth). For the street to be honest I wouldn't spend the bucks for the KB, unless as mentioned before you just want to blow everything off the road, but you can do that with an Eaton and juice, too.

Don't get me wrong, I am very happy with my set up I am producing 496/562 all on a very safe tune, shift points at 5200 (stock), a/f at 12.1, timing at 14 (stock 12) all on 93 octane. Is my L an 11 second one, not with the tune I have, but it certainly could be one with a more aggressive tune. You will hear the comment that KB's eat up stock rods - with an aggressive tune, Eaton's can eat up rods - so if you go the KB route just make sure you are comfortable with the risk associated to your tune. Personally I would rather be safe than sorry at this point.

I am pushing 16lbs boost by the way, that combined with the KB has max'd the stock 42lb injectors (food for thought when you are determining your boost level). One of the keys to think about is the investment you will make beyond the initial purchase of the KB - and if the direction is a new built engine you are talking about a significant investment.

Good Luck in your decision!

D-Day

 

I will add to your rod-eating comment. Pound-per-pound, a KB is way safer than an Eaton, so it's really unfair for anyone to complain.

Second, as you mention, it's all in the tune. Boost doesn't break rods, DETONATION breaks rods.

Last, what other mods do you have on your engine? Sounds to me like you have exactly what I want! And hats off to you for being sensible with the tune.

 

Dan has pretty much all the bolt ons. Full exhaust, etc...

his tune is very sensible and was done locally here in miami by Willie Figueroa of Diablosport. If he wanted to get aggressive and break 500rwhp he could but there is no real point to it as the truck is already a screamer.

Tim do you have AOL instant messenger? my S/N is mlstergadget, hit me up when you can.

 

If you wanna stay stock block, look into JDM's magna blower (SP?) 1900ish and it'll be more cost effective than a KB for stock block.

 

NFW. Sorry - I'm already on communications overload.

 

Horsepower breaks rods too, no?

--Steele

 

Tim,

How is the KB safer than the Eaton pound-for-pound? When I asked about the KB's (before I bought mine) EVERY tuner and most people on the boards said the KB will heat the air a lot more than an Eaton. And that hotter air invites detonation. Sure would like to know the truth since I run a KB myself!

Jody

 

The KB is a true compressor, and compresses the air as it moves it from the upper to lower manifold. The Eaton is a blower, and merely moves more air than the engine can use. They both produce a positive pressure in the lower manifold called 'boost', but the KB is much more efficient, and does not generate as much heat as the Eaton--especially at higher boost levels. It also takes less HP to turn the KB, thus less stress at the crank and a higher output at the flywheel.

The only time the KB produces more heat than the Eaton is when they are not producing boost. Because the KB is a true compressor, any air moving through the rotors is compressed, thus generating heat. Since the Eaton isn't compressing the air, it runs cooler and takes less HP to turn. The situation quickly reverses as the rpm rises. The efficiency of the Eaton when not under boost is one reason it is a favorite OEM product.

 

So here is something to throw on the table.... When my eaton was leaking i disconnected the belt and made it home 300 miles..... So since the KB is a compressor, can you still disconnect the belt and the engine will still run ? My guess would be no since there is no air passing through if it isn't spinning.....

 

Tim, sorry I haven't answered sooner.

I have basically every major bolt on you can buy, except no NOS, no alcohol injection here is the set up:

KB, 9" (6lb) JLP lower, 3.20" (2lb) upper Reichard, gator belt 95 series, Metco idler system, JLP ram air, JLP thundertube, Accufab single blade, porter/polished stock plenum, REM oil separator, Beru S1K plugs, Revolutions Diablo single file chip, Fluidyne heat exchanger, Greg Evans valve body & Ford 4x4 trans pan, Royal Purple 5x 30, Dynatech long tubes, high flow single cats and a single internal X pipe Maggy, Outrageous Performance electric fan and line lock, PSP drive shaft loop, JLP 3" drop shackles, JLP 58" traction bars, Nitto 555r's for the street, 28x16x10 Hoosiers for the track, 160 degree thermostat, I run waterwetter in the intercooler and stock premium antifreeze in the rad (the gold stuff).

Like you said the key is the tune!

D-Day

 

And that still goes directly against what Sal and others have been saying. Under boost the KB heats the air a lot more than an Eaton according to them.

I don't know anymore!!!

Jody

 

Jody, Truckin magazine October of '02 - great article on the KB and the facts.

No offense to anyone, but we all have opinions - you find the truth in there somewhere.

D-Day

 

Thanks Dan, I hope so. There are two completely opposing views here and it's hard to sort it out. I thought the KB was more efficient as I always thought a screw blower would heat the air less than a 3-lobe roots. But then was told by tuners and others that because of how it compresses the air the KB will heat the air a lot more than the Eaton. Of course KB says the opposite is true.

My past tuner told me to watch out with the KB, referring to it as an "air heater" and you'd have to lower the timing to compensate.

Wish I had that article!

Jody

 

You should be able to go on line and pull it from their files, I think?

D-Day