Here are some links to some information on Headers and How they work.

I hate to come off like a jerk....(actually, I don't care if I do)...but expecting a seat of the pants improvement from bolting on headers is not realistic at all.

Do a reality check folks. If every mod you bolted on gave you a raw H.P./Tq. gain in the exact same spot on your power curve, you could have a 600 H.P. truck for about 3000 bucks. It doesn't work that way. All the crap added together is what makes an 11 second truck. Leave parts out with the knowledge that the guy in the lane next to you did that part of the equation and is about to beat you to the end of the track.


Here are some links on headers.......

http://www.vetteguru.com/mods/headers/

http://www.autosportz.com/performance_headers.htm

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...f_kooksheader/




Check out the links before you start thinking you did the wrong move with the headers. You will realize that the headers are a piece of the whole puzzle for a quick truck.


Rocks

 

I don't see any Rod work listed so I assume you only did the top
of your motor, with that said BOOST WISE you are close to what most will say is the safety limit on the factory rods. HP wise it'll take more, but be careful with the boost, especially with an Eaton, at some point the heat of the extra boost will actually work against you and make you slower in some situations.
However you can get away with the 6 lower and 1-2 upper WITH THE CORRECT TUNE.

I run 4 lower, 2 upper, Mother of all Ported Eaton, JLP Cool Air, and see ALOT of boost VERY FAST. 10lbs @ 1/8 - 1/4 pedal, and over 15 at WOT. (oh ya, cant forget the 75HP of Juice too) WOO HOO...........

BTW
YOU NEED COLDER PLUGS IMO

 

I run 16 lbs on the street. Which consists of a 6 lb lower and a 3.25 upper on the KB.
Built motor with stock heads, cams, and exhaust manifolds.

I need Long Tubes and High Flows !!!

 

Rob-I havent built the bottom end yet. Its next. As far as colder plugs go, I think the IT24's are about as cold as you can get.
If Im not wrong, the 22's are a little hotter,and the 20's even more so. What plugs are you running? I had the TR6's in but switched to Denso's.
Thanks for the help!!

 

I have to agree that it's a needed piece of the puzzle as we build, mine showed a increase in both HP & Tq, it was a little quicker into the HP & Tq (a few hundred rpms), and carried higher in the rpms (also only a few hundred rpms) although Peak may not be the biggest bang for the buck, it improved overall,and should continue to help w/future mods.

 

I like you are playing Russian Roulette with the stock Rods,
YIKES

IT24's are 1 zone colder (equal to NGK TR-6's)
With your Boost level Denso IT-22's or NGK BR7's
would be safer (thats 2 zones colder than stock), I run 22's
even in the winter with just 4lbs of extra pulley. With the power level we are at, any safety we can add into our tune IS A GOOD THING, hehehehehe.............

 

Mine hit right at 14 LBS with 4# lower and ported Eaton. Mine's a daily driver and runs great. JLP tuned Predator has my A/F's in the low 11's. Making just shy of 420 HP and 510 TQ.

 

the reason you loose a little bit with headers is due to the loss of backpressure
if you arent making 500 at the ground you dont need the headers
the stock system is very very good
i would spend that money on other things to make you truck go fast at least till you get to the point where it is needed to go bigger on the exhaust but right off the bat you dont need it. it will just work against you at first till you get the power levels up to take advantage of them

 

oh yeah i am running about 15lbs on my dd and am at about 400 hp and 500tq

 

Wonder what you would call mine then?
21 lbs on a stock long block, how much longer?
Who knows

 

NICE GATOR!! what blower u got??
Later
Smok'n L

 

I right there with ya Bruce


FF