Brakes fried @ Track Day, $512 or other options?
#1
Brakes fried @ Track Day, $512 or other options?
Toasted the pads and scored the rotors @ track day needed about 800-1000 ft to haul the truck down from about 115 MPH to 35 MPH and get through the chicane. Did it way too many times and dealer said $512 for the brake job with new rotors. It's just the front and I'd need to wait till Friday or Saturday anyway so is there a better option? I can do the work myself so I guess I can just go get parts and save money that way but can I upgrade just the front or do I have to do the rear at the same time? Thanks going to bed now so I can toss and turn all night.
#2
i don't think you really need to upgrade for the most part, sounds like you just neglected your pads and messed up your rotors. Just replace the rotors and pads yourself. If you want maybe you can consider some slotted rotors. Check on ruslow at nloc.
www.timskelton.com also does a good job showing alternatives to the stock brake system.
www.timskelton.com also does a good job showing alternatives to the stock brake system.
#4
#5
If you ran the stock pads consider yourself lucky.They won't take that for long before you break teh friction materila off and you are on the backing and instant metal to metal.If the rotorsw are not scored to bad[need a pic for sure] you can do a LITE cut on a brake lathe and install new pads.But keep in mind the more metal off the rotor the faster it will heat sink.stan
PS welcome to the world of 1% is very addictive but also very expensive once you get into it.I figure about for every dollar spent on drag racing add another for road.But thats another subject!
Also keep in mind the dealer is going to put on the same quality of part that you just fried!!!!
PS welcome to the world of 1% is very addictive but also very expensive once you get into it.I figure about for every dollar spent on drag racing add another for road.But thats another subject!
Also keep in mind the dealer is going to put on the same quality of part that you just fried!!!!
#6
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...Lightning.mgi2
Much less expensive way to go than the Brembo's. JMHO
Pads are less than $100.00 a set also. I have this kit on my truck with no problems (except rotor wear) and no one brakes later than I do at the track! Going to try a different compound next time.
Jerry
Much less expensive way to go than the Brembo's. JMHO
Pads are less than $100.00 a set also. I have this kit on my truck with no problems (except rotor wear) and no one brakes later than I do at the track! Going to try a different compound next time.
Jerry
#7
Well unfortunatly Ive only got a couple hundred to spend. I can get cross drilled and slotted from Summit for $297 W/ pads but they dont have them in right now. 2 weeks for them to get the rotors + another 4 days shipping. Jegs on the other hand can't even get them. Blah! While I'm at it what would be a good upgrade for the fluid? The manual says use DOT 3 is there a better alternative? I'l order something later today after I search for better delivery times.
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#8
Re: Brakes fried @ Track Day, $512 or other options?
Originally posted by GrannyLightning
Toasted the pads and scored the rotors @ track day needed about 800-1000 ft to haul the truck down from about 115 MPH to 35 MPH and get through the chicane. Did it way too many times and dealer said $512 for the brake job with new rotors. It's just the front and I'd need to wait till Friday or Saturday anyway so is there a better option? I can do the work myself so I guess I can just go get parts and save money that way but can I upgrade just the front or do I have to do the rear at the same time? Thanks going to bed now so I can toss and turn all night.
Toasted the pads and scored the rotors @ track day needed about 800-1000 ft to haul the truck down from about 115 MPH to 35 MPH and get through the chicane. Did it way too many times and dealer said $512 for the brake job with new rotors. It's just the front and I'd need to wait till Friday or Saturday anyway so is there a better option? I can do the work myself so I guess I can just go get parts and save money that way but can I upgrade just the front or do I have to do the rear at the same time? Thanks going to bed now so I can toss and turn all night.
Last edited by Master Of Pain; 08-04-2004 at 10:53 AM.
#9
Originally posted by GrannyLightning
Well unfortunatly Ive only got a couple hundred to spend. I can get cross drilled and slotted from Summit for $297 W/ pads but they dont have them in right now. 2 weeks for them to get the rotors + another 4 days shipping. Jegs on the other hand can't even get them. Blah! While I'm at it what would be a good upgrade for the fluid? The manual says use DOT 3 is there a better alternative? I'l order something later today after I search for better delivery times.
Well unfortunatly Ive only got a couple hundred to spend. I can get cross drilled and slotted from Summit for $297 W/ pads but they dont have them in right now. 2 weeks for them to get the rotors + another 4 days shipping. Jegs on the other hand can't even get them. Blah! While I'm at it what would be a good upgrade for the fluid? The manual says use DOT 3 is there a better alternative? I'l order something later today after I search for better delivery times.
Just my 2c.
#10
Hey GrannyL
When you replace your brakes if you want some company and a hand -let me know. I haven't had the pleasure of working with fellow L owners and I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes as well.
kg3@duraguardproducts.com
When you replace your brakes if you want some company and a hand -let me know. I haven't had the pleasure of working with fellow L owners and I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes as well.
kg3@duraguardproducts.com
#11
Mmmmmm brakes. Slotted good, drilled bad. ATL Super-Blue is a very good brake fluid.
Be sure to check your bearings and seals after track days. Heat kills them. Use a good quality (Mobil-1) synthetic grease to repack the bearings. Track days are incredibly fun an addictive. Be ready to perform maintinence before and after each trip to the track. Invest in a panhard bar if you don't already have one.
#12
Originally posted by Silver-Bolt
Mmmmmm brakes. Slotted good, drilled bad. ATL Super-Blue is a very good brake fluid.
Mmmmmm brakes. Slotted good, drilled bad. ATL Super-Blue is a very good brake fluid.
At the same time, I've heard that you can't cross-drill OEM rotors or the process will compromise its structural integrity.
#13
Originally posted by LightningGuy
Does that hold true for high-end brake systems? I know most Brembo and AP systems use slotted/drilled rotors...
At the same time, I've heard that you can't cross-drill OEM rotors or the process will compromise its structural integrity.
Does that hold true for high-end brake systems? I know most Brembo and AP systems use slotted/drilled rotors...
At the same time, I've heard that you can't cross-drill OEM rotors or the process will compromise its structural integrity.
Brembo has started offering dimpled because of this.....
Rocks
#14
OK through further forum searching I found these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564
From this discussion.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=ruslow
All 4 corners for $300 W/shipping. I'd still need new pads but I could do all at once. They also offer dimpled instead of drilled so I'm gonna mail em now and see if its extra. Thanks for all the help so far guys I appreciate it, keep em' coming!
From this discussion.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=ruslow
All 4 corners for $300 W/shipping. I'd still need new pads but I could do all at once. They also offer dimpled instead of drilled so I'm gonna mail em now and see if its extra. Thanks for all the help so far guys I appreciate it, keep em' coming!
#15
In my opinion drilled or cast holes are old school. For the street they are bling only. The big misconception is that the slots, holes, or dimples are for cooling. Fact is the are for vent gases from the friction material against the rotor surface. Big league racing has gone away from "drilled" as well. I was recently at an American Lemans race and got to be up close with several various cars. Not one drilled rotor to be seen all weekend. Everything was slotted.
As you can see from the photo I had drilled on my L. It was a mistake. Should have gone slotted. Done properly dimpling on factory rotors can help. The problem comes from not knowing how they were done. Spend a little more for a proven product and only have to do it once. See Ruslow, his products are proven beyond what most will ever see.
As you can see from the photo I had drilled on my L. It was a mistake. Should have gone slotted. Done properly dimpling on factory rotors can help. The problem comes from not knowing how they were done. Spend a little more for a proven product and only have to do it once. See Ruslow, his products are proven beyond what most will ever see.